These days, it's not hard to find exquisite, mind-blowing dials, but this usually comes at a cost. Brands like MB&F, Jacob & Co., and Greubel Forsey offer radical, unconventional watches that are simply eye-catching. Unfortunately, you are likely unable to afford such watches (as am I), but that doesn't mean you can't wear a mechanical masterpiece. We talked about the microbrand Humism back in 2018, when they launched a small collection on Kickstarter, and their affordable watches were anything but ordinary. Instead of a traditional dial, Humism creates wearable kinetic art that also tells time while supporting charitable organizations.
History
Kinetic art is art that uses physical movement to create an effect. A constantly moving pattern becomes an optical illusion. Avant-garde artists like Naum Gabo and Marcel Duchamp pioneered the creation of kinetic sculptures in the early 20th century (Gabo's "Standing Waves" and Duchamp's "Rotative plaques verre, optique de précision" were among the first modern kinetic artworks). Common mobiles and many outdoor sculptures moved by the wind often fit this definition, and you've undoubtedly seen or even owned kinetic art at some point. Incorporating such art into wristwatches is certainly unique, and Humism is one of the first to do so. Venezuelan artist Rafael Parra Toro also created kinetic art mechanical watches, and the Los Angeles-based microbrand Zinvo has a BLADE series with similar spinning "turbines." The Humism collection is perhaps the most refined, with impressive attention to detail.
Seven watches make up Humism's latest collection, four of which are currently available - Kato, Dasein, Rhizome, and Dasein HELIOS (a black and yellow DLC variant) - and feature either straight/angular or round dials. We have the Rhizome in hand, and it's one of the most unique dials I've seen recently. The brand took over 19 months and a thousand sketches to perfect the design, and I can say it was worth the effort. I often found myself staring at the watch for its optical effect, almost forgetting to check the time. This is precisely the point, as the brand claims to be both an art studio and a watch brand. As a bonus, five percent of the sale of each watch goes to Mercy Relief, a humanitarian organization helping disaster victims in the Asia-Pacific region. To date, assistance has been provided to over two million people in 25 countries.
Case and Design
The case itself is nothing out of the ordinary, but nonetheless well-made. It's a matte 316L stainless steel with a diameter of 39mm and a height of 11.4mm. The dial is protected by sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating, and the back cover has a sapphire exhibition window. The signed crown is not screw-down, but water resistance is 50 meters, so the watch is safe from rain or in a pool. The back cover is secured with six screws, giving it both a rugged and refined aesthetic, and overall, I'd say it's an attractive case.
The lug width is 20mm, and it comes with a black Italian leather strap with quick-release levers. I'm usually not a fan of supplied straps, which are often too large or uncomfortable, but this strap fits my small wrist perfectly. So much so that I briefly used it with field watches I wore on a hike last weekend (the quick-release levers made this easy).
It's All About the Animated Dial…
The star of the show is the dial, as everything else kind of blurs into the background. Initially, I thought the kinetic art was achieved through overlapping transparent discs with printed patterns, but it's a more complex process. The discs are made of metal using patented Japanese technology to achieve precise weight and balance, maintaining consistent accuracy. It was not an easy development process, and several disc manufacturers tried and failed to meet Humism's strict standards. Ultimately, these intricately cut metal discs create a true moving sculpture without the simple optical illusion of transparent printed layers. Beneath the discs is a white main dial that slightly protrudes beyond the discs, allowing the double circles to convey time. The hour circle is solid and extends from the central pin like a regular hand, but the hand is hidden under the discs. The minute circle is open and is an extension of the lower metal disc, which rotates once per hour.
This relatively static disc contrasts with the fast-moving top disc, creating a "kaleidoscope" effect. The concept sounds simple, but the visual result is mesmerizing, and crafting the intricately cut metal discs requires true craftsmanship. Under the time circles are recessed indices marking the hours. Despite the moving sculpture being distracting, reading the time is surprisingly fast and easy. We're not in the realm of high-end watchmaking, but few dials are as dynamic and appealing as this one, as you can see by watching the video here:
Simple and Reliable Movement
The watch is equipped with the automatic Seiko NH35A movement - ubiquitous, reliable, and an affordable Japanese counterpart to Swiss equivalents. It has 24 jewels, operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), and has a 41-hour power reserve. It can be wound manually and features Seiko's Diashock anti-shock system. The movement is also adjusted to a precision of +/- 15 seconds per day. Functions include central hours and minutes, and while the movement is not decorated, its rotor is laser-engraved.
Let's Sum Up!
Humism has achieved something rare in the industry. It combined a pedestrian movement and case with a clever, whimsical concept, resulting in a lot of visual fun for little money. The movement itself is robust and precise and requires nothing special. Its job is simply to power the kinetic artwork while accurately telling time, and it does this job admirably. As mentioned earlier, founder and designer David Sze said that Humism is equally an art studio and a watch brand. The optical effect is simple yet dazzling, without the need for ultra-complex automata or grand complications. At a price of just a few hundred dollars, this super cool party trick will never get old and is sure to impress both friends and strangers on a night out.
The Humism Rhizome Automatic is priced at $318 USD and comes with an 18-month warranty, free worldwide shipping, and a 15-day return policy. It's a great deal for such an interesting piece, and at this price, one can acquire several models of kinetic art. For more information and to make a purchase, visit the Humism website.
SPECIFICATIONS - HUMISM RHIZOME AUTOMATIC
Case: 39mm diameter x 11.4mm height - 316L stainless steel (matte) - anti-reflective sapphire glass - sapphire exhibition back - signed crown - 50m water resistance
Dial: White main dial with black metal discs rotating to create kinetic art - central hour hand extending under the discs, with a solid black circle around the dial perimeter - open minute circle attached to the end of the lower disc, rotating once per hour - recessed indices mark the hours
Movement: Seiko NH35A - automatic - 21,600 vph (3 Hz) - 24 jewels - 41-hour power reserve - manual winding, hacking seconds, and Diashock protection - adjusted to +/- 15 seconds per day - central hours and minutes - custom laser-engraved rotor
Strap: Black, vegetable-tanned Italian leather with steel buckle and quick-release levers
Price: $318 USD
