With its unique approach to watchmaking, combining classical horology codes and complications, avant-garde cases, innovative technologies, and stunning cosmic landscapes, it is safe to say that no one does it quite like De Bethune. The latest watch to join the DB25 family is the DB25GMT Starry Varius, a practical GMT model that joins its more complex sibling, the DB25 World Traveller from 2016. Marking the brand's 29th in-house caliber, Denis Flageollet has embedded a second time zone complication into the dreamy DB25 Starry Varius. The captivating 'mysterious' GMT display shows the time through a rotating sphere, which also acts as a day/night indicator.
Starry Varius
The DB25 Starry Varius subfamily includes the Starry Varius with customizable night sky and the Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon, which won the GPHG 2018 Chronometry prize. Like the two collectible Starry Varius models, the 42mm case is crafted in polished grade 5 titanium, with integrated, openworked lugs, a sapphire caseback revealing the movement, and a dial adorned with a starry sky and the misty band of the Milky Way. Despite the more complex mechanism beneath, the case is relatively slim at 11.8mm, only 3mm thicker than the simpler Starry Varius model.
Theatrical Display
In a clear departure from most dual-time dial layouts, the DB25GMT Starry Varius uses three concentric rings to convey local time, home time, and date. However, what is remarkable is that through varying heights, finishes, and a theatrical dial display, De Bethune achieves an impressive depth.
Local time is displayed on a raised, rounded silver flange at the periphery (almost like a doughnut) that hovers above a deep well. Blued steel hands with curved tips, mirroring the ring's curve, point to black Arabic hour numerals; the minutes, represented by blue dots, are positioned on an outer rose gold ring. Local time is set via the crown in both directions.
At the dial's lowest level is a 24-hour silver track for home or reference time, which can be set in both directions via the crown. The numerals are highlighted in gold for day and black for night (except for 6 am and 6 pm, which are white and outlined in black). But the most intriguing feature is the miniature sphere made of rose gold and blued titanium. Instead of a traditional GMT hand, the time and day/night function are indicated by the rotating sphere.
In photos, the sphere hovers above the 6 am mark, showing equal segments of gold and blued titanium. As the time progresses into the daytime, the micro-sphere becomes increasingly rose gold, and as it passes the 6 pm mark, the sphere becomes more blue. The 3D rotating moon technology was actually developed and patented by De Bethune for earlier models like the DB28 with spherical rotating moon phases and the impressive DB25QP perpetual calendar.
The raised platform at the center of the dial indicates the date on a curved ring with a jumping flame-blued hand. Representing a poetic vision of the sky by day and night, the platform center is adorned with De Bethune's signature 'night sky' pattern in electric blue. Made from blued and polished titanium and dotted with gold pins, each set by hand to depict stars, the Milky Way pattern and its characteristic haze are laser-engraved and gilded with 24-carat gold leaf.
At the top of the central dial is the day: a sun in polished rose gold radiates its rays on a silver microlight background. The 'microlight' engraving is a refreshed interpretation of the traditional guilloché technique, playing with light and shadow. To adjust the date, a corrector is located on the case at the 6 o'clock position.
29th Manufacture Caliber
The hand-wound caliber DB2507 is De Bethune's 29th movement, visible through a sapphire crystal caseback with double anti-reflective coating. De Bethune's signature delta-shaped main bridge features an extensive mirror-polished surface with a smaller section adorned with Côtes de Bethune, complemented by micro-engraving. Polished beveled angles and polished ruby settings, as well as the hand-applied nail finish of the two barrels, testify to high horological craftsmanship.
Two self-regulating barrels provide a 5-day power reserve (an innovation from 2004). A titanium balance wheel with white gold weights (patent 2016) neutralizes temperature variations through its interaction with a flat terminal curve-equipped balance spring (patent 2006). The escape wheel is silicon, and the triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system secures the regulator with a titanium bridge (innovation 2005). Finally, the movement includes a rotating spherical day/night indicator (patent 2004).
Price
The De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius comes on a supple black alligator leather strap with alligator leather lining and a titanium pin buckle. The watch will retail for 95,000 Swiss francs.
For more information, visit www.debethune.ch.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – DE BETHUNE DB25GMT STARRY VARIUS
Case: 42 mm diameter x 11.8 mm height – polished titanium – inlaid, hollow lugs – sapphire glass with double anti-reflective coating on the dial and caseback – 30 m water resistance – crown for setting local and reference times, date corrector at 6 o'clock on the case.
Dial: outer ring for local time with hours and minutes – 24-hour GMT track for reference time with rotating day/night sphere – date with jumping hand in the center – flame-blued hands – De Bethune's signature 'Night Sky' and 'Day Sky' with 'Microlight' engraving and rose gold sun in the center
Movement: caliber DB2507 – 29th in-house movement – hand-wound – 368 components – 40 jewels – 30 mm – 28,800 vph – 5-day (120-hour) power reserve – titanium balance wheel with gold inserts – flat terminal curve balance spring – silicon escape wheel – rotating day/night sphere – para-chute shock absorption system – hours, minutes, GMT, day/night indicator, jumping date
Strap: black alligator leather with alligator leather lining – titanium pin buckle
Reference: DB25VGT1S3
Price: 95,000 SWISS FRANCS
