Kickstarter can be a great way to launch a brand, and it is filled with both excellent and disappointing projects. From time to time, we see remarkable campaigns, and today is one of those, marked by a clear French accent. France has a long history when it comes to watches and, in particular, diving watches. From Comex to Captain Cousteau, professional diver watches are closely linked to the city of Marseille on the Mediterranean Sea. To this list, we should add another name, perhaps less known but no less significant: Jacques Bianchi, a watchmaker whose workshop overlooks the Old Port of Marseille. In the 1980s, he created watches specifically for these men, and today they are making a comeback. Meet the Jacques Bianchi JB200 Dive Watch Re-Edition, launching on Kickstarter.
Behind this name is a man in his eighties. In his workshop located near the port of Marseille, Jacques Bianchi was acquainted with Jacques Mayol, Captain Cousteau, and his second assistant Albert Falco, as well as repairing most of the Rolex watches of Comex divers. He also created his own brand and developed numerous waterproofing processes throughout his career. Under his name, he created diver watches, waterproof up to 200 meters and powered by a French quartz movement.
Recognizable among many due to the large silhouette of a frogman depicted on the black dial, they were 42 mm in size and had a so-called "destro" profile. The JB200 collection was released in 1982 and began appearing in hardware and diving stores in the southeast of France. In the late 1980s, several batches of JB 200 watches were purchased by Marine Toulon through the Navy Supply Service - the French national naval department responsible at that time for procuring equipment for divers. Several dozen quartz Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB 200 watches, probably about 60 pieces, were ordered by the French Navy. These watches were used at the Saint-Raphaël naval airbase, alongside watches by Tudor, ZRC, or le Forban.
This year, the Jacques Bianchi JB200 Dive Watch returns in a modernized version, equipped with an automatic movement and in a relatively affordable case. The revival of the brand is, of course, led by Jacques Bianchi himself, as well as Fabrice Pougez, the man behind MAT Watches. While the duo decided to stay true to the style of the original watches, they also updated the watches to better meet the expectations of modern diving enthusiasts.
Thus, the new Jacques Bianchi JB200 Dive Watch has retained most of the iconic elements of the original model, such as the destro-shaped case, with a screw-down crown located at the "9 o'clock" position and securely protected by a square-shaped guard. The watch also retains its tool-like appearance and feel: a 42-mm stainless steel cushion-shaped case, with a beautifully polished bevel on the sides of the lugs and a very circular matte surface in the 1970s style. The sapphire crystal frames a 60-click unidirectional bezel with a black insert and a full 60-minute scale, engraved and then filled with beige Super-LumiNova. The watch also retains its original 200 m water resistance.
Regarding the dial, one of the most characteristic elements of the original watches, the new Jacques Bianchi JB200 adheres to the same combination of hands - a stick for hours, a hand for minutes, and a square lollipop for seconds - on a matte black background with a grainy surface. Lacquered markers are everywhere, made in beige Super-LumiNova to give a vintage touch. Finally, the center of the dial is occupied by the iconic silhouette of a diver, gazing towards the watch.
Some changes were made to the new JB200 dive watch. For example, the size of the indices was slightly increased for better readability. The diver design was also slightly altered to look more modern, and the date window at the "6 o'clock" position was removed. Instead, "Jacques Bianchi Marseille" is indicated at the "6 o'clock" position.
One of the most important changes made to the watch compared to the 1980s release is the presence of an automatic movement instead of a quartz caliber. Certainly, in those days, it was very convenient for divers, but in today's market, the decision to use an automatic caliber is more relevant. Inside is the time-tested Seiko NH35, a movement with a frequency of 3 Hz, a power reserve of 41 hours, and proven reliability.
The JB200 Re-Edition is worn on a black Tropic rubber strap, characteristic of the era of its birth, and is closed with a steel pin buckle.
The Jacques Bianchi JB200 Dive Watch Re-Edition will be available from June 15, 2021, at 3:00 PM European time on Kickstarter at a starting price of 595 euros. For more information and pre-order, visit jacquesbianchi.com
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – JACQUES BIANCHI JB200 DIVE WATCH RE-EDITION
Case: diameter 42 mm x height 13.3 mm - stainless steel case, round matte and polished - "destro" style with crown at "9 o'clock", with crown holder - unidirectional bezel with Super-Luminova luminescent coating on 60-minute scale - sapphire crystal - screw-down crown and case back - water resistance 200 m
Dial: matte black dial with diver outline - hands and markers in beige Super-Luminova
Movement: Seiko NH35 - automatic - 24 jewels - 21,600 vibrations/hour - power reserve 41 hours - hours, minutes, seconds (hacking), no date indicator
Strap: tropical rubber strap with steel pin buckle
Availability: pre-order on Kickstarter from June 15
Price: starting price EUR 595
