The Santos De Cartier Skeleton watch is a timeless classic from the oldest line of pilot watches by the French brand. In this article, you'll learn all about them.
History of Cartier Santos Watches
The Cartier Santos watch is the oldest model from the French watch house Cartier. It was introduced in 1904 when Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont approached the company's founder, Louis Cartier, to create a convenient tool for flying an airplane.
Alberto Santos-Dumont needed a watch that could be used without removing his hands from the controls. Aviation in the early 20th century was in its infancy, and such a task seemed challenging. However, this did not stop Cartier.
The brand took on the challenge and created a design that is now considered one of the most iconic in the watch industry. These were not just the first pilot's watches—they were the first true men's watches.
Features of the model included slanted Roman numerals, blue steel sword-shaped hands, and a minute track designed like railway tracks. At the time, watches were considered a women's accessory, and pocket watches were inconvenient for active endeavors.
In 1906, Santos-Dumont tested the watch in action—he wore it during his first public flight. It's no surprise that the watch quickly gained popularity.
Fast forward to 2009 when Cartier released the first skeletonized version of the model—the Santos 100.
Features of Cartier's Skeletonization
Cartier chose a unique approach to skeletonization unlike brands like Vacheron Constantin, one of the oldest watch houses. Instead of removing as much material as possible to make the mechanism almost transparent, Cartier integrates the mechanism's components into the design.
This radically improves the watch's construction, showcasing technical expertise from both a mechanical and aesthetic standpoint.
Variations of Cartier Santos Skeleton Watches
The Cartier Santos Skeleton watches are the most impressive in the Santos family. Their transparent dial allows observation of Cartier's fine watchmaking artistry.
Skeletonized watches are appealing because the intricate mechanics are visible through the sapphire glass front and back covers. The sapphire crystal back cover gives the impression of a "floating" mechanism, as if suspended in a glass capsule.
Cartier demonstrates high levels of finishing and decoration of the mechanism. The Roman numerals, stretched in the signature Santos style, are seamlessly integrated into the skeletonized design while maintaining excellent readability.
There are different versions of the Cartier Santos Skeleton:
- Case in 18-carat rose gold with gold hands and gray Roman indexes.
- Model with a Skeleton dial in the Santos Dumont collection.
- Two-tone version in stainless steel and 18-carat yellow gold with a gold square bezel and decorative steel screws.
- Monochrome version with a silver-gray lacquered dial and mechanism components.
- Model with a black DLC-coated steel case, where the only color accents are 20 rubies in the mechanism; in the dark, the hour track glows green thanks to Super-LumiNova.
- Variations with blue matte bezels or green Roman numerals.
- Models with gemstone inlays for a more luxurious appearance.
Typically, the watches come with a classic leather strap, but a metal bracelet adds extra expressiveness.
Key Features of Santos de Cartier Skeleton
One of the attractive features of the Santos de Cartier Skeleton is the mechanical skeletonized caliber with manual winding. The first version of the mechanical Santos with manual winding appeared in 2018.
Advantages of Mechanical Watches with Manual Winding:
- Thinner case due to the absence of a rotor.
- The opportunity for daily interaction with the watch through winding, creating a more personal connection with the mechanism.
The mechanism is designed from the outset as skeletonized. Roman numerals here serve not only as indexes but also as bridges of the mechanism. This avoids traditional processing of the bridges for transparency while maintaining the signature design.
Compared to the Dumont model, the Santos Skeleton is better suited for everyday wear, even despite the more complex design. It pairs easily with jeans, whereas the Dumont looks more refined.
Another important feature of the Santos de Cartier Skeleton is its versatility. The watch can be worn with both a metal bracelet and straps made of calfskin or alligator leather, allowing you to match the style for different occasions.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is it worth buying a Cartier Skeleton?
Collectors value the Cartier Skeleton both in the classic Santos and the more elegant Santos Dumont. If quality materials and finely crafted in-house mechanisms are important to you, these watches definitely deserve attention.
How to authenticate a Cartier Skeleton?
Pay attention to the serial number, screws on the bezel, and the signature cabochon on the winding crown. Also important are inscriptions on the mechanism, the weight of the watch, and other signature details.
Why are Cartier watches so expensive?
The high price is due to the brand's prestigious history and innovations in watchmaking. Cartier laboratories create unique mechanisms distinguished by rarity, quality, and craftsmanship.
Conclusion
Whether you choose the classic Santos or the rarer Dumont, the Cartier Skeleton watches offer a unique perspective on legendary pilot watches. They represent one of the most impressive variations in the collection.
The models showcase intricate skeletonization of the mechanism, where the dial and movement almost merge into one. Thanks to the transparent front and back covers, the owner can appreciate the finishing and technical perfection of the mechanism.
While the Santos is a popular collectible, the Skeleton version is undoubtedly more desirable for connoisseurs of watchmaking art.