Jaquet Droz uses its Petite Heure Minute collection as a canvas for this charming depiction of a hummingbird. While the flagship Grande Seconde model is often interpreted in countless guises and complications, the Petite Heure Minute typically remains consistent with a small off-centered hours and minutes dial at noon and exquisite backgrounds of exotic minerals like cuprite and rare stones such as pink astorite. The Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara Hummingbird is the latest addition to the collection. Like the initial Smalta Clara tiger models from 2018, it showcases a refined dial with plique-à-jour enamel.
PLIQUE-À-JOUR
This particular technique of vitreous enamel, which translates to "letting in daylight," resembles stained glass and is believed to have originated in the Byzantine Empire in the 6th century AD. Plique-à-jour (in Italian smalta clara) is considered the most complex and labor-intensive of all enamel techniques and was particularly popular during the Art Nouveau period for creating exquisite jewelry. The difference between plique-à-jour and cloisonné enamel is that although the enamel is applied within individual cells of gold wire, the final product has no backing, allowing light to penetrate through the translucent enamel. At Jaquet Droz, the process begins by creating partitions of 18-karat white gold in various shapes and sizes to replicate the outline of a hummingbird. Each partition is filled with enamel of different shades, followed by a sequential firing in a kiln. As with all enamel techniques, heat gives the enamel its color and density, but there is always a risk of breakage, blistering, or chipping.
PERFECT SETTING
The design of the Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara differs somewhat from regular models, as the small white mother-of-pearl hours and minutes disc has been moved to the 2 o'clock position to allow the hummingbird to occupy as much space on the dial as possible. The hummingbird's black beak gently rests on the disc, while its head and feathers swirl around the remaining dial space.
Like other Petite Heure Minute models, the watch case measures 35 mm in diameter and 10.83 mm in height; however, unlike other family models, in this Smalta Clara Hummingbird release, the crown is positioned at 2 o'clock, aligned with the additional dial. The bezel and lugs of the luxurious 18-karat red gold case are adorned with 100 diamonds, graduated in size to match the contours of the tapered lugs. Complementing the case material, the circular frame of the additional hours and minutes dial and the hands are also crafted from red gold.
What is truly remarkable about this model is that the reverse side reveals the captivating colors of the hummingbird and allows light to pass through the enamel. I am unsure how well this works when the watch is on the wrist, but if you hold it up to the light, it is akin to admiring a beautiful stained glass window.
The watch is powered by the caliber 6150, the brand's smallest automatic movement featuring a silicon balance spring, pallet horns, and a platinum rotor, with the visible mechanism attesting to its extreme miniaturization. The platinum rotor is engraved with an 18-karat red gold appliqué of hummingbird feathers. The automatic movement, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, provides a power reserve of 38 hours.
The enchanting Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara Hummingbird, limited to only eight pieces, comes on a green satin strap with hand embroidery and an 18-karat red gold ardillon buckle. The serial number is engraved on the rotor, and the price is available upon request.
For further information, please contact Jaquet Droz.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – JAQUET DROZ PETITE HEURE SMALTA CLARA HUMMINGBIRD
Case: diameter 35 mm x height 10.83 mm – 18-karat red gold with 100 diamonds on bezel and lugs – water resistance 30 m.
Dial: plique-à-jour enamel dial featuring a hummingbird – off-centered white mother-of-pearl additional hours and minutes dial at 2 o'clock
Movement: Jaquet Droz 6150 – automatic – silicon balance spring and horns – platinum rotor with engraved 18-karat red gold hummingbird feathers – individual serial number engraved on the rotor – 21,600 vph – power reserve 38 hours
Strap: handmade green satin strap – 18-karat red gold ardillon buckle
Reference/Availability: J005503502 – limited to 8 pieces
Price: upon request