The Chronograph DLC is the first Andersmann watch I've reviewed that includes more than just a time-only movement (perhaps with a date). These Andersmann Chronograph DLC watches are the most instrumental of the tool watches produced by the still-young company founded by Raymond Chan from Hong Kong. All the Andersmann watches I've reviewed so far have been truly stellar, and I think the company's weak spot is its Panerai-sized dive watches and similarly styled simple watches with a modern twist. The Chronograph DLC is a special taste, differing from the collections Andersmann currently excels at.
The Chronograph DLC is truly a diving watch (at least in terms of durability) with a water resistance of 300 meters. The Andersmann Chrono also comes in a variety of styles - mainly varying in dial accent colors and whether parts of the case are coated with black DLC or not. The watch case is also made of titanium, making the Chronograph DLC surprisingly lightweight. Additionally, the watch is equipped with an unusual and rare Swiss-made ETA movement called the Valgranges caliber A07.211. More on this below.
This version of the Andersmann ANN0688 chronograph is among the new models and complements some of the existing models in the chronograph collection with a model that has a DLC-coated case part. DLC stands for “diamond-like carbon,” and this coating is known for its high scratch resistance - higher than natural titanium. Furthermore, these watches appear most military-like - monochromatic, with various shades of gray. The image of the DLC ANN0688 chronograph on Andersmann's website might make you think that the lume color of the hands and hour markers is white, but in fact, it's a kind of cement gray color that seems to match the pale gray color of the natural titanium Grade 2 sandblasted mid-case.
The dial looks very instrumental, in a minimalist sense, which is pleasant but somewhat sobering. Above the dial is a domed sapphire crystal, 3.8 mm thick with AR coating (personally, I would have liked more AR coating given the crystal's large curvature), but unfortunately, it attracts many fingerprints, so regularly wiping the glass with a cloth will be essential. The dial itself has many details, from a textured surface to a multi-layered construction of hour markers that are windows for the luminescent layer beneath them.
One of the oddities of the functional dial is the absence of luminescence on the chronograph's second hand, which is itself executed in matte dark gray, matching the dial color. Thus, it is difficult to read, as it functions directly opposite - like a bright red chronograph second hand on a black dial. At the same time, on most other versions of the Andersmann chronograph (with a brighter dial), the chronograph second hands are more noticeable. Additionally, I know that chronographs and tachymeter scales were secretly wedded in a ceremony several decades ago, but I feel that for a brand specializing in dive watches, creating a chronograph with a motorsport function is a missed opportunity to make something more related to diving or universal chronograph use. This is also due to the fact that the tachymeter scale is attractively printed on a nearly vertical flange ring on the dial's periphery.
The cushion-shaped case does not try to directly resemble Panerai, and I think it differs enough from Panerai that no one would accuse Andersmann of imitative design. The slightly curved titanium case is 44 mm wide, 16.5 mm thick, and 51 mm from lug to lug. The lugs are spaced 24 mm apart, meaning that most straps made for most Panerai watches will also fit these watches. Andersmann supplies the Chronograph DLC with two straps: a high-quality black FKM rubber strap and a black fabric strap with leather lining in a canvas style with one oversized loop and a matching black DLC-coated buckle.
Through the back of the case, via a sapphire glass window with a gray tint, you can see the automatic movement. The movement is rare, despite being intended for more mass production. The ETA A07.211 was part of the Valgranges mechanical movements that Swiss company ETA released in 2009. Similar in function to the ETA Valjoux 7750, the A07.211 movement offers higher performance and greater width, designed to fit larger watches. For example, notice how widely the date window is positioned on the dial. If you think about it, it's much farther from the center of the dial than many people are used to. This is because the A07.211 caliber has a size of 16.5 lignes (a diameter measurement), whereas the Valjoux 7750 is only 13.25 lignes.
The A07.211 model (which is 7.9 mm thick) is designed to fit wider dials, longer hands, and also offers some performance changes. The automatic movement, operating at 4 Hz, has a power reserve of 54 hours. Besides time and date (without a day of the week function), the movement features a 12-hour horizontal chronograph, controlled by a clutch. In this execution, the A07.211 model has a good level of pearled decoration on the bridges and a custom black Andersmann automatic rotor.
The Andersmann Chronograph DLC watch has some quirks, but it is undeniably a fresh watch and offers great value for money. An unusual yet excellent movement, titanium case, and high-quality details, priced under $2,000, as well as the exclusivity of a limited edition, make this watch a very worthwhile purchase that definitely deserves attention. Be sure to check out the various available colors of the Andersmann chronograph. The Andersmann Chronograph DLC with chromatic coating ANN0688 Andersmann Chronograph in full gray is limited to just 80 pieces, with a retail price of $1,680 USD. Learn more or place an order on the Andersmann website.
Necessary Information
>Brand: Andersmann
>Model: Chronograph DLC reference ANN0688 (limited edition of 80 pieces)
>Price: $1,680 USD
>Size: 44 mm wide, 16.5 mm thick, and 51 mm lug-to-lug.
>When to wear it: As a stealthy, almost military-chic chronograph watch for city strolls.
>Friend we'd recommend it to first: A watch enthusiast who is style-conscious and looking for a large, masculine chronograph at a great price.
>Best characteristic of the watch: Original design. Lightweight and comfortable on the wrist. Good use of materials and textures. Good choice of mechanical movement caliber.
>Worst characteristics of the watch: Crystal gets smudged and can reflect light, slightly impairing legibility. Gray on gray sometimes favors function over style. Product name could be more distinctive. Andersmann provides a tool for changing straps, but quick-release spring bars would be preferable.