The Breguet Classique collection holds a special place among my favorite models of high horology.
The concept of Classique is a blend of the ancient prestige and aesthetics of the Abraham-Louis Breguet era with modern manufacturing technologies applied to wristwatches today. One of the latest models in this line is the limited edition Classique Phase de Lune 7235, featuring an 18-karat 'Breguet gold' case and a matching dial. This model is one of the few in modern watchmaking that uses the gold-on-gold effect, meaning both the case and the dial are made from the same material.
What is 18-Karat Breguet Gold?
Similar to some other brands, Breguet has developed a unique gold alloy that resembles rose gold but with a less pronounced red hue. Besides other gold colors, the brand has been actively using 18-karat Breguet gold for its watch cases lately. The alloy is used for the case, while the dial is apparently coated with a layer matching the color. A similar approach was recently applied in the Breguet Classique 7225 model. The Classique Phase de Lune 7235 case has reasonable dimensions - 39 mm in diameter and about 10 mm in thickness, equipped with a 20 mm wide alligator strap. The glasses on the dial and case back are made of sapphire, and the water resistance is 30 meters.
Decorative Features of the Classique Phase de Lune 7235
One of the main attractive features of this watch is the decorative finishing applied by Breguet. This includes guilloche machine engraving on the dial and the sides of the case, as well as hand engraving of scenes on the bridges of the movement. The elegant dial features no less than four styles of guilloche, with additional engraving visible on the outer sides of the case. Personally, I highly value guilloche finishing on watch cases - today it's a rarity. In my opinion, this traditional technique significantly enhances the value of the Classique 7235 model. All guilloche work is done in-house, allowing the brand to use this technique not only on dials but also on the cases of most Classique models.
Breguet Caliber 502.3.DRL Movement
Inside the Classique Phase de Lune 7235 is the in-house automatic Breguet caliber 502.3.DRL movement with a 3/4 size rotor. The gold automatic rotor is decorated with an engraving of the letter 'B' - the brand's symbol, and the movement surfaces are adorned with an engraved scene. From my memory, this depicts the original Breguet manufacture of the 18th century in Paris, located on the banks of the Seine river. Other Breguet models feature engravings of the modern Swiss manufacture. The Breguet building in the engraving is highlighted in gold.
Technical Specifications and Features of Caliber 502.3.DRL
The automatic caliber 502.3.DRL combines traditional and modern solutions. The dial features a balanced asymmetry style that Breguet has been employing for hundreds of years. In addition to the main hands, there is an additional seconds indicator, a power reserve indicator, and of course, a moon phase indicator with a striking lunar face image. The movement operates at a frequency of 3 Hz and has a power reserve of about 45 hours. Its construction involves 250 components, including a modern silicon balance spring. Silicon improves movement accuracy and provides resistance to external factors such as temperature and magnetic fields.
Use of Modern Materials in Traditional Breguet Watches
This aspect reminds me of an interesting discussion with Breguet representatives a few years ago. The topic was the appropriateness of using silicon in modern watches of a brand known for its classic aesthetics. On one hand, the introduction of modern materials like silicon seems uncharacteristic for a classic brand. On the other - Breguet often uses silicon and other advanced technologies in its movements, including magnets and high-frequency units. How does the brand explain this?
The logic is that Abraham-Louis Breguet would likely have approved of such innovations as silicon if he lived today. The company understands that Breguet's main goal was to create the most accurate and reliable watches. Therefore, any modern solutions aimed at improving accuracy and reliability are considered appropriate and in line with the brand's spirit. I found it important to note that the brand has been able to logically explain why the use of modern materials doesn't contradict the classics but rather continues Breguet's tradition of innovation.
Practicality and Everyday Use of Breguet Classique Watches
Many owners enjoy wearing Breguet Classique watches in everyday life. Despite their high status and prestige, these models don't look overly formal and easily pair with jeans and casual wear. The watches are comfortable, practical, and easy to read, which encourages regular use. This is important to emphasize since many luxury models are intended only for special occasions. In the case of the Phase de Lune 7235 and other Classique watches, there are no strict restrictions.
They represent a harmonious combination of beauty and functionality. A total of 250 pieces of this limited series will be released. The price of the Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7235 (reference 7235BH/0H/9V6) is 85,800 USD.
