Breguet is primarily associated with classic, elegantly finished watches and countless innovations credited to the brand's founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet. However, there is another area of influence linked to the Breguet family and its fundamental role in aviation. Louis Charles Breguet, a great-great-grandson of Abraham-Louis Breguet, was one of the great pioneers in this field, and the Breguet brand became renowned for the Type XX aviation chronograph. Following a series of aviation watches with instrumental looks, Breguet adds color and a sporty character to its flyback chronograph with the launch of new orange and green versions of the Breguet Type XXI 3815 in a titanium case.
Although the Type XX, a civilian and modernized version of the military flyback chronograph, is no longer produced, Breguet still has several watches catering to aviation enthusiasts. We refer to the Type XXI and Type XXII watches - more modern and larger iterations of the original concept. Specifically, the Type XXI model, an enhanced version of the Type XX, features a larger case, a slightly different display, and a more sophisticated movement.
The Breguet Type XXI has been around for several years, and even titanium is not entirely new to this collection. But today, the brand enhances the sporty look and feel of the chronograph by combining a titanium case with bold, bright elements and an updated dial. The new Reference 3815 in a titanium case is a modern counterpart to the vintage Type XXI 3817 edition introduced in 2016.
Still housed in a 42mm case - as opposed to the classic Type XX's 38mm - it replaces stainless steel with a more robust yet lightweight grade 5 titanium alloy. The case retains all the emblematic elements of the collection, including the fluted strap, which is more pronounced here than on watches from the classic collection for better grip. Thanks to a screw-down crown and a sealed case back, the watch is water-resistant to 100 meters.
A classic element of the Breguet Type XXI titanium editions is the contrasting titanium bezel with a 60-minute scale in positive relief coated in black lacquer. This black element not only adds a sporty character to the watch but also makes it appear smaller on the wrist. Enhancing the casual and modern style of these two new titanium Type XXI 3815 models is a matte calfskin strap (black for the orange version, light brown for the green) with contrasting stitching matching the dial color. It closes with a new triple folding clasp for greater comfort. Despite its relatively large diameter and case height, the Type XXI is comfortable thanks to its short rounded lugs and reduced weight of titanium.
The main update of the new Breguet Type XXI 3815 titanium watches is the dial, which has been completely redesigned for this occasion. First, the entire layout has been simplified and updated. Second, and most importantly, it now includes colorful accents on the hands and numerals, which is quite unexpected for Breguet. Nevertheless, the result is convincing and pairs well with the everyday attire of these new editions.
The base of the dial is sunburst-finished in deep black. Additionally, a new high-precision minute/second track is placed on the dial's periphery, and the applied indices have been replaced by Arabic numerals and markers, executed in a more instrumental style. They are filled with bright orange or green luminescent material, also found on the hour and minute hands. Another update concerns the display itself. While the chronograph was previously three-register, Breguet has switched to a cleaner bicompax layout, but not a standard one…
While the small seconds hand is positioned at 9 o'clock, the sub-counter at 3 o'clock is intended for a 24-hour indicator, not for chronograph minutes. Indeed, the Type XXI 3815 model (like all other Type XXI models) features a practical central minute indicator, as well as a central second hand. At the 6 o'clock position is a date window.
Under the sapphire crystal lies the well-known caliber 584Q/A with the brand's signature "retour en vol" or flyback complication. The flyback allows the chronograph to be stopped and reset with one push of the button at 4 o'clock, enabling consecutive timing sessions. This automatic movement, based on Lemania architecture, includes the latest technologies implemented by Breguet, such as a silicon escape wheel and balance spring. The cam-operated chronograph runs at a frequency of 4 Hz with a power reserve of 48 hours. The pleasant design features beautifully finished bridges and a special rotor unique to this titanium version, made of gold with a guilloché pattern.
Availability and Price
Each Breguet Type XXI 3815 Titanium model, with orange or green details, is released in a limited series of 250 pieces and is already available in Breguet boutiques and retail stores. The price is set at 14,500 euros. For more detailed information, visit breguet.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - BREGUET TYPE XXI 3815 TITANIUM
Case: 42mm diameter - titanium case with finely fluted strap - black lacquered bidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute scale - sapphire crystal front and back - screw-down crown - water resistance 100m
Dial: black matte dial - orange or green luminescent hands and Arabic numerals - 24-hour indicator at 3 o'clock - date at 6 o'clock
Movement: caliber 584Q/A, in-house - automatic chronograph with flyback function - 323 components - 26 jewels - 28,800 vibrations/hour - Swiss lever escapement with silicon horns - silicon balance spring - 48-hour power reserve - hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with central second and minute hands, 24-hour sub-dial, date
Strap: calfskin leather with triple folding clasp
Reference: 3815TI/HO/3ZU orange, 3815TI/HM/3ZU green
Availability: both editions limited to 250 pieces - already available
Price: 14,500 EURO
