Selecting the perfect proportions for a watch is a task that becomes more achievable each year.
In the case of the Octo Finissimo, known for its cuff-like fit on the wrist and characteristic thinness, the proportions have always been unique. This year, the brand decided to introduce a new interpretation of this record-thin model, reducing the case diameter to 37 mm and thus changing all the watch's proportions. To understand how this was achieved, I met with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the executive director of product creation for the brand, who discussed the key details of this novelty.
Case
Holding these watches in your hand instantly reveals the Octo Finissimo. There's no mistaking the distinctive sharp, angular case with its thin profile and integrated bracelet. In the new version, the case size has been reduced to 37 mm, while the thickness has slightly increased by 0.12 mm to now measure 6.45 mm. An increase in thickness? Yes, but more on that later. The case proportions look logical and feel superb on the wrist - I'd even say better than the original.
The collection features three case variants: two in titanium with different finishes and one in solid yellow gold. The titanium models are the foundation of the collection, with a matte version competing with a two-tone version where the bracelet's central links have a polished finish. Notably, this release also includes a fourth model - a titanium minute repeater, distinguished from the others by its different movement.
The case retains its round and octagonal bezels, short sharp lugs, and a convenient knurled crown. The back features a transparent case back, showcasing the new caliber. The bracelet here balances between a standard and integrated type, as it attaches to conventional lugs. Water resistance is 30 meters, which is standard for ultra-thin watches. For swimming in the Mediterranean, it's better to choose another model.
Dial
The four presented models use different dial designs, but all maintain a consistent structure: Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock, with the rest of the hour markers being long thin batons, and a small seconds hand positioned between 7 and 8 o'clock. In the fully matte titanium model, the markers are in a darker color, while in the partially polished titanium and yellow gold models they are polished. The latter, the gold version, additionally features a matte gold dial. The minute repeater stands out with a skeletonized dial with cut-out markers and text, enhancing sound passage through the dial. In this model, the small seconds hand is situated at the 6 o'clock position.
Bracelet
The new bracelet is perhaps the most interesting part of the redesign. It has become more noticeably tapered, and the construction has become more complex: each link now consists of two parts, and the clasp has been replaced with a convenient butterfly with a push-button mechanism. In every respect, the bracelet is a significant upgrade. Previously, the old clasps on the Octo line raised concerns due to the force required, which seemed risky for such thin watches. The new clasp is elegant, fully integrated into the bracelet, and very easy to use.
Among the three available bracelet options - polished and matte titanium, fully matte titanium, and yellow gold - my favorite is the polished and matte titanium. Polishing titanium is a complex process requiring skill and consistency, and it is the fine details here that give the design a special status. If a Bulgari watch does not have this sense of uniqueness, it's likely a fake.
Movement
The work on the movement deserves special attention. For this compact model, a completely new automatic caliber BVF 100 was developed. Despite a slight increase in thickness, the overall volume of the movement is 20% less than that of the BVL 138 caliber used in the 40 mm version. In addition to reducing the volume, the power reserve was increased from 60 to 72 hours. In developing the movement, the brand relied on its experience in miniaturization, which has already manifested itself in the Octo Finissimo Ultra lines and the launch of the Piccolissimo caliber, which became the basis for women's and jewelry models with a mechanical heart.
Final Assessment
The new addition to the Octo Finissimo line brings a fresh perspective to the collection, which has always been associated with record thinness. It is now a more versatile and everyday model, accessible to a wider audience. This is the beginning of a new era for Bulgari and a new platform within the Octo family, on which the brand can build further development. Changing the size and proportions of a watch with such an iconic silhouette is no easy task, and it's clear that a large team worked on it. Now we can only watch where the collection with a 37 mm diameter will go next.
Prices and Availability of Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37
The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37 model is already available at official brand representatives and in branded stores.
| Model | Case Material | Case Dimensions (D x T) | Water Resistance | Movement | Power Reserve | Price (CHF) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Octo Finissimo 37 (matte titanium) | Titanium (matte) | 37 mm x 6.45 mm | 30 m | BVF 100, automatic | 72 hours | 15,100 |
| Octo Finissimo 37 (matte-polished titanium) | Titanium (matte-polished) | 37 mm x 6.45 mm | 30 m | BVF 100, automatic | 72 hours | 15,700 |
| Octo Finissimo 37 (yellow gold) | Yellow gold | 37 mm x 6.45 mm | 30 m | BVF 100, automatic | 72 hours | 43,600 |
| Octo Finissimo 37 minute repeater | Titanium | 37 mm x 6.85 mm | 30 m | BVL 362, automatic | 42 hours | 161,000 |
All models feature sapphire crystal front and back, as well as a bracelet matching the case color, with a butterfly clasp with a push-button mechanism. Functions include hours, minutes, and small seconds, and in the minute repeater, an acoustic alert feature is added.
This article highlights the key aspects of the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37, emphasizing its innovative proportions, enhanced bracelet, and unique movement, making it a significant event in the world of ultra-thin luxury watches.
