Earlier in 2021, the Japanese company Citizen made waves in the watch industry by announcing a range of new mechanical watches, including new automatic mechanical movements. Although the Miyota watch factory, part of the Citizen Group, has been continuously producing quartz and mechanical movements for some time, it's been over a decade since Citizen, as a brand, introduced a new mechanical movement. Citizen's 2021 mechanical watch news started with the announcement of the more expensive Citizen Calibre 0200, which subsequently led to the debut of the new Citizen Series 8 watches, which are more affordable and serve as a reboot of the legacy Series 8 family.
For more information on the broader Citizen Series 8 collection, which includes the 830, 831, and 870 series models, please refer to the article linked above. This review focuses on the Citizen Series 8 870 model, reference NA1004-87E. This is the top-tier watch of the Series 8, with a sibling model NA1000-88A, differing only with a silver (instead of black) dial. Currently, these are the most expensive Series 8 watches, but they are still about a third less expensive than the pricier Citizen Calibre 0200 models. Since I've had the chance to test both models, I'll quickly answer the question of whether the Calibre 0200 (which has a completely different type of mechanical movement) is worth the extra money.
From a watch enthusiast's perspective - yes. Nevertheless, it's a bit unusual for Citizen to release two very good products in the same category simultaneously, even if they are two entirely different types of products for Citizen. The Calibre 0200 and Series 8 are modern dress watches with a slightly sporty twist. The Series 8 is the more modern model design-wise, while the Calibre 0200 features more detailing, better finishing, and parts manufactured with tighter tolerances.
The Calibre 0200 is aimed at well-heeled watch collectors who want to counter what Citizen has already announced as limited production. It's a competitor to Grand Seiko through and through, and naturally, it will be exclusive and desirable. Citizen has done an excellent job on most fronts, and I'll discuss this more in a separate review. As for the Series 8, Citizen has created high-end, yet more mainstream, dress/business watches that are noteworthy for not trying to be European-style watches. The Series 8 is entirely Japanese in its design, manufacture, and inspiration.
Although the 40mm wide steel case generally has a dressy profile and personality, its shape is rich with modern lines and sharp angles. The unique bezel construction is designed to challenge perceptions of what dress watches can look like, and the use of a new mechanical movement is a statement to the world that Citizen now has something that matches Swiss watches, not just mimics them. Citizen (like Seiko) positions itself as a genuine horizontal competitor to similar European brands. This is a fundamental (and likely widely welcomed) shift in strategy from 'cheaper than Swiss, but similar in feel and superior in reliability.'
The 100-meter water-resistant case has significant heft, but it fits the theme and remains comfortable on the wrist as a dress watch. It measures 40mm in width, 10.9mm in thickness, and about 48mm from lug to lug. Above the dial is a flat sapphire crystal with AR coating on the inside, and the caseback is solid (unfortunately, there's no view of the movement). Returning to the sapphire crystal, I found it quite prone to fingerprint smudges. Since Citizen is a master of material coatings, I bet a fingerprint-resistant sapphire crystal coating would be truly appreciated by enthusiasts.
The Series 8 870 watch comes paired with a handsome steel bracelet that tapers slightly. The flat, matte H-link design works but is not as original as the Series 8 870 case with its interesting side profile and two-part bezel. However, the bracelet closes with a relatively flat folding clasp with a button. Moreover, I understand that Citizen really wanted to maintain a stylish design, but I found the spartan design of the watch's caseback somewhat sparse. I understand that Citizen might want to reserve exhibition windows for special models (like the Calibre 0200), but I think consumers would appreciate some visual cues about what Citizen designers had in mind when developing the 870 case.
The dial of the Series 8 870 watch is a masterful execution of what many think of when considering well-crafted Japanese watch dials. It is classic, yet features modern elements, the least of which are in the design of the hands and hour markers. The dial is intentionally minimized, with the main focus not on additional design elements but on ensuring that each existing element on the dial looks as pleasing as possible. This includes the excellent glossy dial finish and the pleasant contrast with finely brushed and polished hour markers. The dial is also fully lumed, but in such a way that it doesn't detract from its appeal as an elegant formal watch.
The dial features a date window with a frame that matches the finish of the hour markers. The dial is also somewhat unusual in that it features the name of the watch collection. Another interesting design element is the two-tone second hand. The black counterweight contrasts with the matte steel color of the main part of the hand. This creates an interesting and extremely subtle effect.
Inside the 870 watch is the in-house automatic movement Citizen Calibre 0950, which is being introduced for the first time in these watches. The movement is only 4.1mm thick, and in its architecture, it is probably somewhat similar to the Miyota 9000 series movement, although I don't think it's the same movement. For starters, the Calibre 0950 has a 50-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 4 Hz. Its winding is a bit smoother than ETA movements, and overall operation is predictably refined. Citizen claims that the Calibre 0950 provides -5/+10 seconds per day accuracy.
These stated figures are usually worse than the actual performance, while these figures are much more accurate than expected for many other Miyota movements. The technical specifications are better in the Calibre 0200 movement, but the 0950 is no slouch - it outperforms many competitors in this price range. I just wish that some of it were visible, as watch owners can only imagine what it looks like (by the way, the movement does have decorations).
Finally, Citizen claims that the Calibre 0950 "provides enhanced magnetic resistance," implying that the movement features an impressive level of magnetic resistance without the need for special shielding.
With the release of the Series 8 870 watch collection, Citizen is making a bold statement to the rest of the watch industry and a compelling value proposition to consumers. On one hand, Grand Seiko currently dominates in high-end Japanese watches. Citizen has all the potential and brand heritage to be a worthy competitor, and it is moving in that direction. The Calibre 0200 attempts to match up to Grand Seiko, while the Series 8 is a more mainstream response to high-end Seiko, at a significantly lower price. The Series 8 is indeed meant to compete with high-end Seiko dress watches, but ultimately offers something closer to a "Grand Citizen" (as opposed to just fashionable dress watches).
For many years, Citizen has tried to enter this price category - especially in the United States - with a range of truly cool products imported from Japan. Unfortunately, many items, such as the Citizen Campanola from the Citizen Signature collection, never gained wide distribution outside Japan. With the Series 8 model, Citizen is trying to do something new in this price category by offering mechanical watches. Most of the company's previous attempts have been tied to high-end quartz watches. High-end quartz watches will still have their heyday, but unfortunately, Citizen was a bit ahead of its time, offering many of its high-end quartz watches when they first appeared. At the moment, much of the traditional watch community remains enamored with all things "mechanical."
So, here they are, the proud Japanese and modern Citizen Series 8 watches. Well-endowed collectors will be able to purchase the Calibre 0200, but for many people, this much more expensive model will be overkill. The Series 8 870 offers traditional high-end Japanese watches, intended for the international market, at a fair price. In the future, Citizen can certainly bring more variety to colors and finishes, but as soon as I first put the Series 8 870 on my wrist, I immediately understood that this model should remain in the Citizen collection for a long time. The price of the Citizen Series 8 870 reference NA1004-87E is $2,000 USD. More details on Citizen watches' website.
Essential Data
>Brand: Citizen
>Model: Series 8 870 reference NA1004-87E
>Price: $2,000 USD
>Dimensions: 40mm width, 10.1mm thickness, ~48mm lug-to-lug.
>When you'll personally wear it: Perfect for business settings or professional engagements. Easygoing versatile watch that comfortably fits most places.
>Friend we'd recommend it to first: A Eurosceptic interested in their first good watch. A modest design enthusiast who wants serious worthy watches without a name to be judged by.
>Best characteristic of watch: Very attractive case. Legible, high-quality dial. Comfortable on the wrist. Quality folding clasp. Convincing operation of the new automatic movement.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Crystal attracts smudges; caseback is somewhat plain.