We often focus on high-end, complex timepieces. After all, that's what makes us dream at ONEWATCH. But, of course, there's more to this industry than just premium class. What if you need a mechanical watch with an in-house movement, lightweight and durable construction? What if you're looking for your first mechanical watch or want to give someone a suitable gift for their first introduction to the world of mechanical watches? Citizen may have one of the most reliable answers to these questions - the new Citizen Super Titanium Mechanical NH9120 collection.
Many watch enthusiasts and collectors climb the career ladder, often getting acquainted with and passionate about watches from a young age. Others may have the fortune and access to highly coveted pieces from exclusive or even independent watchmakers. But today, we will look at another segment of the industry, one that's no less intriguing. Simply put, we're just amazed that Citizen can release attractive watches, entirely made of titanium, with a true in-house mechanical movement for less than 350 euros. Yes, you read that right, less than 350 euros… That's roughly the price of most 'designer watches' you can find in a department store. But Citizen, of course, offers much more than that, with the NH9120 collection.
Titanium has unique properties, perfectly suited for watchmaking, ensuring comfortable, worry-free wear on the wrist. It is hypoallergenic, corrosion-resistant, and lightweight. The Japanese brand has a rich history of using titanium in watchmaking, as Citizen introduced the first titanium watch in 1970, the X8 chronometer, which we have detailed here. This was followed by many watches using this innovative material, and even today, it remains an important part of Citizen's collection. This extensive experience with titanium even led to the development of Duratect - a surface hardening technology to enhance scratch resistance.
Citizen wouldn't be Citizen if it didn't have several titanium watches in its collection, including this mechanical trio NH9120. In fact, the collection uses Citizen's patented Super Titanium™ material, which combines proprietary titanium processing technology with the Duratect surface hardening process. This material is not only more scratch-resistant than regular titanium but also has a brighter, silvery sheen that differs from the traditional medium-gray color of available grade 2 titanium watches. Moreover, Super Titanium™ can be polished, which is impossible for grade 2 titanium.
The mechanical watches of the Citizen NH9120 collection are housed in a titanium case measuring 41 mm wide and 11.4 mm thick - a rather modest size suitable for most men's wrists, and certainly, some young, active women would not refuse these watches. The case profile is sharp and fresh, with a polished bezel and matte bracelet. A nice touch is the polished faceted part at the top of the lugs, enhancing the dressy look of the watch. On the right side is the crown with a double knurl and small protective elements protruding from the bracelet. A pleasant design element, enlivening the case and giving it personality.
The dial for the NH9120 model comes in three traditional but always pleasing colors: silver (NH9120-88A), dark blue (NH9120-88L), or black (NH9120-11E). These classic styles are given a modern twist with an open-heart cutout featuring straight and curved lines. This cutout reveals the balance wheel beneath - the beating heart of the movement. The blue and silver dials have a sunray brush finish, while a solid black dial is also available. Each has a sufficient amount of detail.
Polished applied hour markers are accompanied by a guilloché pattern and an embossed minute track on the outer edge. The hour and minute hands are skeletonized, with a small contrasting tip (or a black line in the silver model). The slender second hand matches the rest on the blue and black dials but has a fully black tip on the silver dial for improved readability. The dial of these NH9120 watches impresses with its detailing and quality of finish, especially considering the price… It wouldn't look out of place on watches in a much higher price range.
Inside is the automatic caliber 8992. Since Citizen is a fully integrated manufacture, you get an in-house developed caliber. However, the NH9120 collection is positioned as entry-level watches, and the movement somewhat reflects this. While the movement is certainly more than capable, it has a basic finish. It operates at a frequency of 21,600 bph, has 21 jewels, and when fully wound, possesses a power reserve of up to 40 hours. In general, nothing impressive, but just what is needed for the job.
One of the elements of these watches that impressed me the most is the titanium bracelet. While the black version comes on a black calf leather strap with a titanium clasp, the bracelet takes center stage. The solid titanium links have a stepped profile, but the best detail is the polished edges between the links to offset the bright shine of Super Titanium™. This elevates the watch, which looks much more expensive than it actually is.
And with a price of 329 euros for the black dial on leather and 349 euros for the other two models, Citizen proves that great-looking watches with corresponding capabilities don't have to cost an arm and a leg. Fully titanium watches with an in-house mechanical movement and a beautiful modern design at such a price are just hard to beat. In terms of value for money, they far exceed other brands. They simply do not disappoint, so now it's all about personal preferences and your assessment of the design.
For more information, visit citizenwatch.eu.
SPECIFICATIONS - CITIZEN SUPER TITANIUM MECHANICAL NH9120 COLLECTION
Case: diameter 41 mm x height 11.4 mm - Super Titanium™ case with matte and polished finish - polished bezel - sapphire crystal - transparent caseback with sapphire crystal - push crown with crown holder - water resistance 100 m
Dial: silver, blue, or black dial with 'open heart' - sunray finish - guilloché texture and embossed minute track - applied hour indices - stylized cutout revealing the balance wheel - skeletonized hour and minute hands - needle second hand in silver (blue and black dial) or black (silver dial)
Movement: Caliber 8229-21A, in-house made - automatic and manual winding - 21 jewels - 21,600 vph - accuracy from -20 to +40 seconds per day - 40-hour power reserve - hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: black calf leather strap with titanium clasp - solid titanium bracelet with folding clasp
References: NH9120-88L - blue dial, titanium bracelet, NH9120-88A - silver dial, titanium bracelet, NH9120-11E - black dial, calf leather strap
Price: 329 euros leather strap, titanium bracelet 349 euros