With Guido Terreni's appointment as CEO, the respectable watch company Parmigiani Fleurier has undergone a complete restructuring in recent years.
This began with the release of the significant Tonda PF collection, which not only modernized our vision of PF but also elevated it to a new level in business terms. However, a brand cannot live by one collection alone, and Parmigiani Fleurier's catalogs feature another important name: Toric. As an integral part of the brand's history, Toric was Michel Parmigiani's first venture into wristwatches. This year, this elegant collection returns… It's time to find out if the new Toric Small Seconds model lives up to its name.
A Brief History of PF and the Toric Collection
Parmigiani Fleurier hasn't always been in the business of wristwatches. The brand's history and its founder, detailed in this portrait, began with the restoration of old clocks and pocket watches - relevant in the mid-1970s when mechanical wristwatches were out of vogue. At that time, highly skilled watchmakers had few opportunities, and Michel Parmigiani could practice his craft thanks to his patrons, the Sandoz family. Then, in a story unfolding in the Fleurier region, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele from Chopard commissioned the development of an automatic two-barrel movement - an important caliber known as L.U.C 96.01.
At the same time, Michel Parmigiani decided it was time to go solo and founded his eponymous brand, later named Parmigiani Fleurier. Returning to mechanical watches, Michel released the Parmigiani Fleurier collection in 1996, comprising 52 pieces combining simple and complex watches. The debut of the QP Rétrograde, Parmigiani Fleurier's first wristwatch, was in 1996, and the gadroons and detailed knurling on the case became the company's signature. Toric became a collection in 1998, with the simpler model called Memory Time.
All Toric watches shared design elements, from volumes and proportions based on the golden ratio, two-tier or single-tier bezels with knurling, and spear-shaped hands. The Memory Time model was peculiar because it used a "jumping hours" mechanism that could be used as a dual-time function. But more important than the Lemania ébauche-based mechanics (considered the best in the mid-1990s) or the unusual display was the design that defined the collection for decades.
The slightly baroque approach, inherent in most of Michel Parmigiani's creations, was inspired by Roman architecture and the golden ratio (known to be one of Terreni's key inspirations when he headed Bulgari). Moreover, Michel's works feature many references to the greatest names in horology history, such as A. L. Breguet, with dials adorned with guilloché, or traditional high-end complications - which makes sense, as Parmigiani restored many antique Breguet pieces, like the Breguet Pendule Sympathique.
While neo-vintage and early versions of Toric are becoming increasingly collectible, the modern collection lost popularity and faded into the background after Terreni's arrival. But that was until this year, as the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric collection is making a comeback.
The New Toric Small Seconds Model
After Terreni altered the collection by releasing the Tonda PF and Tonda PF Sport, two modern watches with an integrated design, he turns to the brand's history and reintroduces Parmigiani's most significant watches - Toric. The collection, presented earlier this year at the Watches & Wonders exhibition in Geneva, is currently compact, comprising just three models - two small seconds models as a permanent collection and a limited edition Rattrapante.
Today, we focus on the crucial Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Small Seconds model. But what is Toric, and specifically, what is the new Toric? In short, it's the brand's vision of dress watches and a tribute to its roots. As Terreni said in an interview we conducted with him, "dress watches should match your attire when you dress up." However, dress watches have changed nowadays simply because fashion and style have evolved. Despite adhering to the collection's codes, Toric watches have become the embodiment of modern elegance. Subtle, textured, and restrained sartorial codes and understated color shades pair perfectly with contemporary outfits. As with fine clothing, branding is minimal, and the fabric is of high quality and timeless.
By releasing the Toric Small Seconds, Parmigiani Fleurier reimagines its dress watches using modern elegance codes. It's not just a remake of existing models, but it immediately feels like Toric. The watches exhibit masculine elegance and sophistication - and I understand that saying such words might make me seem a bit pompous, but that's the reality in the current context. This is further manifested in the brand's chosen color palette, where genuine restrained originality and sophistication are felt. The choice of materials, in which almost all parts are made of precious metals, also aligns with this long-term vision.
Let's start with the case. The Toric Small Seconds model is offered in two options - rose gold or platinum, each mirroring the other in chosen dial and strap tones. The case, measuring 40.6 mm in diameter (quite large on paper, but much smaller on the wrist due to the wide bezel), is still inspired by Doric columns and ancient architecture.
Compared to the original collection, the style has evolved, becoming more modern and simplified, smoothing out baroque elements. The smoother, softer, and less complicated case combines gentle curves without protrusions and aggressive angles with a refined texture on the knurled bezel. The thin silhouette of 8.8 mm is a modern vision of dress watches with classic PF codes, yet it feels much more contemporary. Additionally, the watch exudes a true sense of understated luxury thanks to its finish and weight on the wrist.
Let's talk about colors, as the choice of the two models plays an extremely important role in the collection's appeal. Both models, as mentioned above, are mirror images, with the same colors used in different parts of the watch. Toric is about subtlety and modern sartorial tones, using neutral grays and beiges and the complete absence of sharp contrasts. Restraint is the key word. The platinum model combines the cool metallic color with a Celadon Grey dial, creating slightly greenish hues, and a matte sand-colored nubuck strap. The rose gold watch pairs a warm case with a Sand Gold dial and Celadon Grey strap, again using cool and warm contrasts instead of dark and bright tones.
Like the rest of the watch, the Toric dial has been simplified to the maximum without compromising quality. Following the Tonda PF example, the faceted hour markers have become minimal, the brand name has been removed and replaced with a logo located in an oval cartouche, and a matte surface replaced the guilloché texture. Simple and elegant at first glance, the dials are actually complex in execution. Made from solid white or rose gold, with a polished chamfer on the periphery indicating the chapter ring, they are equipped with solid gold indexes and hands, polished for contrast. The dial surface is the result of a traditional graining technique.
As the brand explains, “this method, rediscovered through the persistence and expertise of watchmakers like Michel Parmigiani, involves the careful application of a special mixture on the dial, consisting of cream of tartar, crushed sea salt, and silver, mixed with demineralized water to create a homogeneous paste. Applying this paste with subsequent delicate polishing using special brushes creates an even and soft surface.” Additionally, the dials are not flat but so-called "chevé," as their edges slightly dip and meet the inner surface of the case.
Turning to the other side of the watch, the movement deserves mention. The new caliber PF780 is a new in-house development, visually appealing, technically sophisticated, and much more luxurious than the rest of the watch, aligning with the spirit of the entire collection, as luxury is something you don't show the world but enjoy yourself. Firstly, this hand-wound movement is an intentional design statement, with asymmetry and geometry at its core. Two barrels, providing stable torque and extended power, are elegantly positioned under two openworked bridges in polished steel. The graphic layout continues in the straight bridge next to the regulating organ, which is also held by an openworked cross bridge in polished steel.
As mentioned, this movement is luxurious, primarily thanks to the 18-carat rose gold bridges. The contrast with polished chamfers is created by a new Côtes de Fleurier finishing technique, creating a fine, almost fabric-like texture, complemented by sandblasting of the plate. The watch operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and has a power reserve of 60 hours.
Thoughts, Availability, and Price
After serious deliberation and discussion with other team members, we concluded that the new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Small Seconds made a strong impression on us. The choice of colors, the restrained sense of luxury, the contrast between the relative simplicity of the watch and its luxurious materials, the modern approach… The new Toric definitely feels like a well-thought-out watch. I particularly like the understated style of the external details compared to this somewhat expansive and demonstrative movement. As they say, those who know, know...
If I had one remark about the new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric collection, it would be the price. I understand that there is a cost for using precious metals in almost all parts. I understand that all parts require significant time investment. Nevertheless, with a starting price above 50 thousand euros, Toric enters a very select circle of elite watches, intended only for working with watches, where it faces stiff competition from independent watch companies and a few renowned brands. I'm not saying the price isn't justified, but I'm expressing concerns about positioning. Ultimately, the market will give us the answer. However, I can confidently state that the new Toric Small Seconds are some of the most elegant yet modern dress watches in recent years. It's delightful.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Small Seconds in rose gold, available in September 2024 and not limited in sale, costs 45,000 Swiss francs or 50,600 euros, while the platinum version is 52,000 Swiss francs or 58,400 euros. More information can be found on the website www.parmigiani.com.