If there is one combination of complications Patek is renowned for, it is undoubtedly the chronograph perpetual calendar - a signature the brand unveiled with the iconic reference 1518. Continuing this tradition, the brand has played with various watches on this theme, and the king of them all has to be reference 5204, a watch with a traditional manually wound chronograph, additional rattrapante function, and perpetual calendar… Clearly, these are the watches. These Patek Philippe 5204R Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar, already part of the collection with two other models, are now released in a new combination of rose gold with a gray dial.
Under this new model 5204R-011 lies a powerful, complex watch that sits at the top of Patek Philippe's manually wound chronograph lineup. Simply put, it encompasses everything in the brand's arsenal, namely the split-seconds or rattrapante function and the best of calendars - the perpetual. All of this in a classic, updated, and compact case with a diameter of 40 mm and a height of 14.3 mm. And again, like the two other versions still available in the collection, the watch is made of 18-carat rose gold, with classic stepped lugs and a thin concave bezel - let us remind you that since 2016, they have been available in two rose gold versions: one with a silver opaline dial and a chocolate brown alligator leather strap (5204R-001), the other with an opaline black dial and a Goutte (drop) bracelet in rose gold (5204/1R).
New to this particular model is the dial, which is presented in an elegant slate-gray color - a tone not often seen with Patek. Aside from the new dial color, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5204R-011 remains practically the same watch as before. The display is complex and classic, with three counters. The day and month are displayed in two linear apertures at the “12 o'clock” position. The date hand at the “6 o'clock” position includes a moon phase aperture. The small seconds hand and the instantaneous 30-minute counter are displayed on two subdials at the “9” and “3 o'clock” positions. Two small circular apertures display the leap year cycle between 4 and 5 o'clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o'clock - features that allow precise calendar adjustment. Both day and night, reading the time is facilitated by applied gold hour markers and Dauphine hands with luminescent coating.
Inside the case with interchangeable sapphire crystals and solid case backs is the impressive in-house Calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q - based on the same platform found in models 5170, 5270, or 5370. In this case, the manually wound mechanism incorporates the split-seconds chronograph function, and on top is the perpetual calendar module. The view through the back is superb… A mix of classic architecture (manual winding, column wheel, split-seconds chronograph) with modern technologies (wheels with patented tooth profiles, self-adjusting hammers, or modern 4 Hz frequency), it is marked with the Patek Philippe seal and stores up to 65 hours of power reserve. All adjustments are made with small recessed pushers.
The new Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5204R-011 is worn on a glossy calfskin leather strap in a slate-gray color with an embossed alligator pattern (an unexpected choice… perhaps due to exotic leather handling regulations) and a rose gold folding clasp. The price is 269,600 euros. More information at patek.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – PATEK PHILIPPE SPLIT-SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH PERPETUAL CALENDAR 5204R
Case: diameter 40 mm x height 14.3 mm – 18-carat rose gold case – sapphire crystal front – interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid case back – water resistance 30 m
Dial: slate-gray sunburst, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Dial made of 18-carat gold.
Movement: Calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q, in-house – manually wound chronograph, with QP module – 32 mm x 8.7 mm – 496 components, 34 jewels – power reserve 55-65 hours – frequency 4 Hz – hours, minutes, small seconds, split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar with date, day, month, leap year, moon phases, day-night.
Strap: Calfskin leather, embossed alligator pattern, hand-stitched, glossy gray color. Folding clasp.
Reference: 5204R-011
Price: 269,600 EURO