IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review

As the calm before the inevitable storm of Watches and Wonders approaches, IWC presents one of the year's most unexpected novelties.

Until now, the brand's collections were clearly divided: Pilot and Ingenieur chronographs were sporty models using advanced materials developed by IWC over the years, while Portugieser and Portofino were elegant watches with new complications. However, today this boundary is blurred: IWC introduces the fully darkened Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium.

Case

Let's start with the most interesting part of the new Portugieser Chronograph - the 41mm Ceratanium case. This titanium alloy was specially developed for IWC and combines the lightness of titanium with the scratch resistance characteristic of ceramics, thanks to a unique kiln-firing process. An additional advantage is the natural black color of the material, which does not require additional coating, thus eliminating the risk of damaging PVD or DLC.

Aside from the material, the case has retained its previous characteristics: a relatively substantial thickness of 13.1mm and a low water resistance of 30 meters. These parameters are not critical drawbacks, although I personally prefer thinner cases and more universal water resistance ratings.

On the wrist, the steel Portugieser chronograph usually feels substantial due to the large case and mechanism. In Ceratanium execution, the watch feels entirely different, which, in my opinion, will change the usual perception of the model as predominantly classic.

Dial

The dial of the new model was a real surprise for me, although considering the existing Ceratanium models in the lineup - Pilot’s Chrono 41, Double Chrono, and Big Pilot’s QP - I should have expected something unusual. In these models, the dials are made in a matte style with gray printing, whereas the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium is fully immersed in black, concealing most details.

Of course, readability is not the main focus here, and as with other 'black-on-black' watches (e.g., Omega Seamaster Diver 300), the emphasis is on aesthetics and impact. The sub-dials at the '6' and '12' positions feature azuré texture, and the soft reflections of the leaf-shaped hands and Arabic numerals make them distinguishable against the deep black background.

Strap

Unexpectedly for a model with such a case, IWC chose a textured rubber strap for it, perfectly matching the case's curves - a pleasant and thoughtful touch. The strap is also equipped with a Ceratanium clasp, emphasizing the design's integrity and quality of execution.

Movement

The darkened sapphire case back limits the view of the caliber 69355 but highlights the watch's limited edition. This movement is a notable improvement over the ETA Valjoux 7750 used in previous models. The caliber 69355 is built on a similar architecture but features a more stable rotor and the integration of a column wheel for smoother chronograph operation. Production has been moved to ValFleurier - a Richemont manufacture.

Technical specifications meet the standards of luxury mass calibers: 4 Hz frequency, 46-hour power reserve, and the movement is finished in an industrial style with pleasant stripes and perlage.

Final Assessment

Watches of this kind are difficult to evaluate unambiguously. Traditionally, the Portugieser was associated with elegance, and despite the large case size (historically determined), modern versions avoided a sporty style, except for some Yacht Club models. The new Ceratanium version confirms the trend towards the emergence of micro-trends for black watches and gives the Portugieser line a sporty touch that was previously atypical for it.

It is clear that this model is aimed at a narrow audience, as it is unlikely that someone is looking for pseudo-classic watches with a fully darkened design. But that's not so important. The Portugieser collection is diverse enough to satisfy classic lovers. The limited edition of 1500 pieces is a niche solution that brings freshness to the lineup without restricting itself to simply changing dial colors.

Technical Specifications and Price of IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium

This model demonstrates how innovative materials and design can expand the boundaries of classic collections while maintaining their character and recognizability. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium is an example of a successful blend of elegance and modern technical solutions.