In 2009, the whimsical watches with a rotating dial became a hit for the brand, which was then undergoing significant visual updates and a semi-rebranding. Perrelet is a luxury brand that is part of the Spanish Festina group. The initial success of the Perrelet Turbine collection, inspired by jet engines, led to numerous versions and editions, including this Perrelet Turbine Pilot model, which was originally released in 2014.
The watch is a whimsical tool watch, standing out on the wrist with a 48mm-wide case. Despite the large size, the watch is comfortable as the black PVD-coated steel case has a flat back and curved lugs, but I prefer the watch on a traditional strap with a buckle clasp. The watch is available either with such a clasp or with the depicted folding strap, which I find too harsh and bulky.
The strap itself is actually quite beautiful. It is primarily black rubber with an inner leather lining featuring a decent alligator print. The 13.48mm-thick case is sporty, but the water resistance is only 50 meters (as with many other pilot watches). Above the dial is a wide, domed sapphire crystal with AR coating (surprisingly with very little glare). Another exhibition sapphire window is set over the movement.
Even though it's not neo-vintage, the Turbine case has aged well. It still resembles the bowl-shaped mouth of a jet engine and has a fun little folding crown, which might not be very useful but is nonetheless enjoyable to play with. Strangely, the Pilot version of the Turbine Pilot watch more or less nullifies the semi-empty look of the folding crown concept with a second traditional-style crown on the opposite side of the case. In this watch, the crown on the left side of the case is used to extend and control the mechanism, while the crown on the right side of the case unscrews to allow the internal bezel with a slide mechanism to be disengaged. Indeed, to make these watches "truly" pilot watches, Perrelet decided to include a complication associated only with aviation in the watch world, which, of course, no one has seriously used for several decades.
Unscrewing the crown and rotating the internal bezel is almost as engaging as watching the turbine dial spin in action, although for most people it will prove just as utilitarian. Nevertheless, the dial is indeed a pleasure to look at, its restrained black-and-yellow tones characteristic of the Reference A1095/4 model create a sense that the watch is much more serious than it actually wants to be. The transparent sapphire dial is an excellent design element, as the hour markers are applied to it - rotating beneath it, you can see the fast-moving blades of the turbine rotor. Optically, there's actually not much difference whether the rotor dial spins or not (although it's more noticeable in other Turbine Pilot color schemes), but playing with it remains fun - even though it spins almost too efficiently.
Where did this silly concept of a rotating dial come from? To answer this question, one must turn to the history of Perrelet, when it produced watches with a double rotor for winding efficiency, but with an additional automatic rotor on the dial. I believe that in the mid-2000s, it was the Swiss designer Sebastien Perret who implemented the concept of a rotor on the dial of Perrelet watches in the Turbine collection. I don't think the rotor on the dial is functional anymore (in terms of winding the automatic mechanism), but it recalls the history of automatic watches with a double rotor and is significant for creating stimulating visual animation when looking at the dial.
Inside the Turbine Pilot watch is the in-house automatic caliber P-331-MH, manufactured by the Soprod group of companies. It displays the time with a central second hand and operates at a frequency of 4 Hz with a 42-hour power reserve. As a bonus, it can be noted that the movement (visible through the back of the case) has a decent appearance with attractive decor and a special automatic rotor engraved with Perrelet. Another bonus is that the movement is COSC-certified as a chronometer, ensuring timekeeping accuracy. Accordingly, reading the time from the dial is a very simple and clear task.
The Perrelet Turbine collection still remains among the few "fun" watches that can sometimes be mistaken for more conservative tool watches. You get a very reliable movement and a clear dial - that's true. In addition, you have a bunch of spinning and rotating toys that help embellish the experience. All of this is largely part of the Mediterranean core of the brand. While I recommend wearing these watches with a simple clasp, the large case is comfortable as a pleasant plump watch, not causing any unpleasant sensations.
For over 10 years, Perrelet has been developing the Turbine collection, and it still remains an important icon for the company. You have to admire the vast variety of the Turbine collection, from limited hentai-themed models to aviator versions like the Turbine Pilot. It may not be the most serious tool watch on the market, but it makes up for it with playful energy, well-composed, and original individuality. These are bold watches for bold personalities, and that's what Perrelet excels at these days. The price for the Reference A1095/4 Turbine Pilot watch is 4,980 euros. More information can be found on the Perrelet watch website.