When the Rolex Perpetual 1908 was introduced last year, it made a strong impression.
I know the brand does not want to call it a successor to the Cellini line, but it is indeed the Mk2 Cellini. The inaugural models were surprisingly attractive, despite their minimalist, almost empty dials. Rolex is not typically associated with dress watches - the most dressy reference in this case would be the Day-Date. Nevertheless, by releasing the 1908, the brand made a loud entry into the game, proving it is as sophisticated and refined as some of the usual suspects (VC, PP, etc.). This year, the brand added a touch of traditional craftsmanship - a field in which the brand is not always abundant (spoiler: it is, more than one might think) - by presenting this beauty: the Rolex Perpetual 1908 in platinum with a truly stunning guilloche ice-blue dial. It's time for us to pass our verdict.
Referencing the year the company's founder Hans Wilsdorf created the Rolex brand, the very name Rolex Perpetual 1908 immediately conveys its intentions. This is a watch that pays homage to the brand's origins, its past, and traditional watchmaking art. It is undoubtedly the brand's vision of classic dress watches, using most of the genre's codes. Despite Rolex's reluctance to discuss it, the new Perpetual 1908 collection was designed to replace the Cellini series (completely discontinued in early 2023) with a more elegant appearance, but on the other hand, its technical execution can be discussed quite a bit. There was even an open case back (considered a revolution in the Rolex world). The initial collection consisted of four models made of white or yellow gold, with matte black or white dials. Unassuming pieces that perfectly served as the foundation of the collection.
Now the brand gives it new momentum by introducing a more luxurious, visually brighter, subtly colored model with a dial that can tell much more… And it is done in a rather unexpected manner, with the help of a guilloche dial.
Ice-Blue Grain Dial, Machined
Let's talk about the important element in this context: the dial and its execution. First of all, we tend not to notice Rolex as a dial manufacturer. Of course, the dials of many watches - especially in the professional line - are relatively simple, lacquered, and equipped with applied indexes made of precious metals. Don't get me wrong, Rolex makes excellent dials, and the level of accuracy and refinement is evident. It's just that in this context, there is nothing exceptional. However, Rolex has genuine expertise in dial making and has been working for decades with rare materials (MoP, meteorites, natural stones) and gem settings. Remember last year's mysterious Day-Date 36 model with a jigsaw puzzle dial? Well, it was made using the champlevé enameling technique.
This year, releasing the Rolex Perpetual 1908 Platinum, the brand introduces another traditional decorative craft into the equation - engine-turning. As we explained in the “Technical Perspective” article, there are several ways to create a so-called guilloche dial - traditionally on a rose engine or straight-line machine operated by the skilled hand of an engraver, a slightly more industrial way on a copy lathe with a mechanical turning device, and then a fully industrialized way using CNC or stamping.
What about the ice-blue dial of the Rolex Perpetual 1908 Platinum? As is often the case with the brand, Rolex remains quite reserved about processes, but we were told it was done “traditionally” using traditional guilloche equipment and techniques. While I certainly don't see a brand of Rolex's scale making dials like specialized artisans do, the dial of this 1908 model is made on manually operated machines using traditional methods. Upon closer inspection, a texture with features of classic guilloche and visible marks of the cutting tool is discovered.
This striking, unexpected, but very attractive dial consists of two different textures: grain, covering most of the dial, with a pattern reminiscent of a rosette, and a repetitive pattern emanating from the center of the small seconds counter, and a double filet sauté with a corrugated pattern framing the minute track on the periphery of the dial. However, some “industrial” techniques are still noticeable in some places. For example, the recesses around the logo, chronometer mention, and small seconds hand are undoubtedly the result of milling rather than traditional guilloche.
In reality, the pattern looks much more subtle and attractive than in the brand's official images. A careful examination reveals almost no visible defects, whereas dials made by hand using guilloche often have defects (particularly at the borders of textures), leading some to think that the 1908 dial is the result of CNC machining – which it is not. The result is refined, precisely executed, and especially attractive, making a watch that doesn’t necessarily look like a Rolex but feels like a Rolex when looking at the technical side of things. When the crown does something, it usually does it right.
What is unmistakably Rolex is the color. The ice-blue tone chosen for these watches is not just a beautiful color; it fully aligns with other sought-after platinum watches of the brand, such as the Daytona reference 126506 or Day-Date 40 reference 228236. The distinctive feature of the 1908 model is the addition of texture to this color, resulting in the dial gaining more depth and playfulness, while also creating the feeling that this is a modern approach to traditional guilloche technique. However, the dial is quite glossy, and the small seconds hand would seem more “integrated” if it had its own, finer texture.
Otherwise, we have the same design elements as last year's versions, with a printed railway minute track, applied white gold markers combining faceted batons and numerals at 3, 9, and 12, and faceted polished white gold hands with a distinctive hour hand connecting these watches to the rest of the collection - which, in my opinion, could have had a slightly different design.
Elegant Dress Watches with Rolex Distinctive Features
Otherwise, these Rolex Perpetual 1908 Platinum reference 52506 remain in line with the inaugural models of last year. We have an elegant, restrained case with a diameter of 39 mm, a thickness of 9.50 mm, and a length of about 47 mm. The distinctive feature of the model is the use of 950 platinum, which doesn’t make it much different from the white gold version, but gives it confidence and high quality on the wrist - platinum is about 25% denser than 18-karat gold. Undoubtedly, this is a modern vision of dress watches that play on the side of larger sizes, but thin tapered lugs and the use of a refined fluted pattern on the bezel give a retro sophistication that softens modern proportions - and by the way, the fluted bezel pattern repeats the “filet sauté” pattern of the dial, which, in my opinion, looks especially attractive and consistent.
The Perpetual 1908 watches, and especially their new platinum version, are distinguished by great elegance despite the somewhat frantic use of textures. All this goes well together when looking at the watch from a certain distance - the standard distance between the eyes and the wrist. What you see in the photographs enhances the patterns. In real life, they are much more subtle and understated, although this version seems more vibrant and polarizing than its gold counterparts. Like the dial, the case is executed magnificently, with great attention to finishing and assembly - nothing surprising here, after all, it is Rolex.
Under the sapphire case back lies the same caliber 7140 as in the gold editions. Developed specifically for this collection, the automatic movement combines modernity and classicism. Classic in its architecture, with a central rotor, thin profile, visible ratchet wheel, and barrel, it nevertheless uses the brand's latest technologies. It is wound by a massive 18-karat rotor mounted on a ball bearing and equipped with a patented Chronergy escapement made of anti-magnetic nickel-phosphorus, as well as a much rarer technical solution - a Syloxi hairspring made by Rolex from silicon with a patented geometry (rather than the blue Parachrom hairspring found in most other watches). The regulating organ with an inertia balance wheel, adjustable with two gold Microstella nuts, is under the balance bridge. The power reserve is comfortable at 66 hours.
With a sapphire case back, Rolex has made an effort in decorating the caliber 7140, giving it a more traditional and warm look than the 32xx caliber. It includes Rolex Côtes de Genève - a decoration distinguished from traditional Côtes de Genève by a thin polished groove between each stripe, - a snail-finished ratchet wheel, diamond-polished chamfers, and artificial gold chatons around the rubies, which are milled directly on the bridges and then gilded. As expected, the movement is a Superlative chronometer class and COSC certified (-2/+2 seconds/day).
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 Platinum watches are offered with a choice of matte brown or matte black alligator leather straps with a green calfskin lining. The watches are closed with a dual folding Dualclasp made of 950 platinum, which is quite compact and looks good when closed.
Thoughts and Price
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 Platinum Guilloche Dial is undoubtedly a visual success. The combination of elegant modern platinum watches with a beautifully executed guilloche dial is impressive, elegant, and adds traditional watchmaking content to a brand mostly known for its flawless industrial execution. I am not so much surprised by the visual appeal of this edition as by the strategic decision to appeal to traditional craftsmanship - in a good way. This collection was presented as a “tribute to classical watchmaking art,” and the latest edition does exactly that…
In some aspects, the watch could be improved, but this relates more to my tastes than to objective shortcomings (texture of the small seconds hand, different hour hand…). What really matters is that the watch wears almost perfectly, it impresses, catches the eye, has character, but also has undeniable elegance and sophistication.
My final comment concerns the price - a topic my colleagues Frank and Robin touched on in their review of Watches and Wonders 2024. I know that 30,000 euros or dollars is, objectively, a huge amount of money for “just a watch.” However, in terms of competitors, I find it a fairly reasonable price for a platinum watch with a traditionally executed guilloche dial bearing the Rolex name on the dial.
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 Platinum reference 52506 is part of the permanent collection and priced at 31,300 euros, 30,900 US dollars, 29,600 Swiss francs or 26,600 British pounds. More information can be found at www.rolex.com.