This event is already seven years old, but we are sure it doesn't end here. This year, Bvlgari released the seventh record-breaking model, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, the world's thinnest QP. But where did it all begin? We will take a small journey down memory lane and look at all the innovative, record-setting models, from the very first to the latest.
Creating ultra-thin watches is a complex task in itself, especially when it comes to extreme sizes. Several brands are known for their work in ultra-thin watches. For example, Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Audemars Piguet have long been associated with the concept of creating the thinnest timepieces.
Bvlgari entered the scene in 2014, introducing the sporty-chic Octo Finissimo model. These ultra-modern watches, inspired by the Basilica of Maxentius in Rome, serve as the perfect platform for Bvlgari's commitment to slimness. The sharply defined angular case itself draws the eye, especially when combined with complex mechanisms that circumvent certain challenges and achieve records in the process. Bvlgari themselves call this model a thin shirt for watchmaking, and it is quite an apt description.
To outline the context a bit, we must not forget what led to the debut of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. This brand is primarily a high-fashion workshop producing some of the finest jewelry. Yes, Bvlgari also makes watches, but they have never been the main focus of the brand's activity. The situation began to change when the company acquired the watch manufactures Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth and gradually integrated them into the Bvlgari corporation.
What began as a leading high-class jewelry manufacturer, also producing watches, is increasingly shifting towards high watchmaking. In 2014, the saga of Bvlgari's record-breaking ultra-thin watches began with the release of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon model. Now, seven years and seven records later (although some have been surpassed), we decided it was time for a retrospective.
2014 - Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon (the thinnest tourbillon watch)
At Baselworld 2014, Bvlgari unveiled its first record-breaking watch - the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. They made quite a splash in the industry, at least in terms of thinness. The watch case was sharp and angular, like all Octo Finissimo models, and its height was only 5.00 mm, making it the thinnest tourbillon watch in the world.
At the same time, these watches broke a second record - the thinnest tourbillon movement. Bvlgari started with the regulating organ and decided to build the movement around it. The thickness of the tourbillon movement is only 1.95 mm, equivalent to the thickness of paper. All 249 components were designed and constructed to minimize height and were manufactured in-house. The movement is manually wound since a rotor would significantly increase the dimensions.
Quick Facts - diameter 40 mm x height 5.00 mm - platinum case - in-house Finissimo Tourbillon caliber - 249 components - thickness 1.95 mm - tourbillon escapement - 21,600 vph (3 Hz frequency) - power reserve 55 hours - 130,000 Swiss francs.
2016 - Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater (the thinnest minute repeater watch)
Just two years after the first achievement in ultra-thin watches came the second record-breaking Bvlgari watch with another very complex mechanism - the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater. The ultra-thin movement was housed in a titanium case, which amplifies the sound of the striking mechanism better than steel or gold. The thickness of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater case is only 6.85 mm, and the movement height is just 3.12 mm.
By reducing the height of the movement and case, Bvlgari employs unusual techniques. For example, the repeater mechanism is activated via a thin button set at the 9 o'clock position. The diameter of the centrifugal governor regulating the minute repeater's operation is only 3.3 cm, including the inertia weights. To date, the record remains unbeaten.
Quick Facts - diameter 40 mm x height 6.85 mm - titanium case, crown, and minute repeater button - in-house BLV362 caliber - manual winding - 362 components - 3.12 mm thin minute repeater movement - 21,600 vph (3 Hz frequency) - power reserve 42 hours - limited edition of 50 pieces - 160,000 Swiss francs.
2017 - Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic (the thinnest automatic watch)
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic - the least complex horologically, yet still very impressive. For a time, they remained the thinnest automatic watches on the market but were surpassed by the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic model presented the same year, with a thickness of 4.30 mm. The watches feature all the distinctive traits of the Octo Finissimo family: architectural case, minimalist dial, and, of course, ultra-thin profile and movement. The total height of the watch is a slim 5.15 mm, with the movement occupying only 2.23 mm.
Quick Facts - diameter 40 mm x height 5.15 mm - sandblasted grade 5 titanium case - in-house Calibre BLV138 automatic movement - height 2.23 mm - platinum micro-rotor - 31 jewels - 21,600 vph (3 Hz frequency) - power reserve 60 hours - 14,800 Euros.
2018 - Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic (the thinnest automatic tourbillon watch)
With these watches, Bvlgari set not one but two records: the thinnest automatic watch in the world and the thinnest tourbillon watch in the world. By launching the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic model, Bvlgari broke its personal record previously held by Piaget. It set a new world record for the thinnest automatic watch, with a height of 3.95 mm (movement and case) and the thinnest tourbillon watch in the world.
The last record was previously set by Bvlgari in 2014 with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon model. At that time, the case height was an impressive 5.00 mm, now it has been reduced to 3.95 mm. The movement remained as thin, 1.95 mm, but was converted to automatic winding. It uses the same gear train, regulating organ, and bridge and plate design but is equipped with an original peripheral rotor.
Quick Facts - diameter 42 mm x height 3.95 mm - sandblasted titanium case - solid titanium case back with a small aperture - in-house BLV288 caliber - height 1.95 mm - peripheral winding rotor - floating one-minute tourbillon - 21,600 vph (3 Hz frequency) - power reserve 52 hours - 120,000 Swiss francs
2019 - Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT (the thinnest mechanical chronograph movement)
One of the most challenging achievements in Bvlgari's pursuit of creating ultra-thin watches is undoubtedly the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT. This is one of the most complex types of movements to develop, especially if it must fit in an ultra-compact titanium case with a diameter of 6.90 mm. Meanwhile, the height of the entire movement is only 3.3 mm, so Bvlgari did an excellent job!
The movement is a fully integrated chronograph caliber using a column wheel with an additional GMT complication. It has a peripheral winding rotor system, like its record-breaking predecessors. This was yet another fine demonstration of Bvlgari's watchmaking capabilities.
Quick Facts - diameter 42 mm x height 6.90 mm - sandblasted titanium case with double sapphire crystal - in-house BVL 318 caliber - integrated chronograph movement with column wheel - independent second time zone display - frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz) - power reserve 55 hours - 16,500 Swiss francs
2020 - Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic (the thinnest tourbillon chronograph watch)
Just last year, Bvlgari once again proved to be one of the best in its class when it comes to ultra-thin watches. By combining the 2019 Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT with a tourbillon escapement and fully skeletonizing it, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic model broke records once again.
These watches claim the title of the world's thinnest chronograph with a tourbillon: the case height is only 7.40 mm, and the movement is 3.50 mm. It is slightly thicker than the version without the tourbillon, but if we are to complain about that, we are indeed splitting hairs. The visual spectacle is unheard of, with a good balance between the open-worked barrel and the tourbillon escapement, juxtaposed against two registers for the chronograph display. Only one button is used to start, stop, and reset the chronograph, while another selects the function of the winding crown.
Quick Facts - diameter 42 mm x height 7.40 mm - sandblasted titanium case - in-house BVL 388 caliber - integrated chronograph movement with monopusher system - tourbillon escapement - peripheral rotor - winding crown function selector - 21,600 vph (3 Hz frequency) - power reserve 52 hours - 155,000 Euros
2021 - Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar (the thinnest QP watch)
The latest chapter in the saga is the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. For now, this is the case, but Antoine Pin, managing director of Bvlgari's watch division, hinted in one of our interviews that more is yet to come. These watches were unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2021 and broke the record for the world's thinnest perpetual calendar watch. The relentless pursuit of creating ultra-thin watches has now come full circle regarding Grand Complications: tourbillon, minute repeater, perpetual calendar.
The Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar runs on the in-house BLV305 caliber, with a thickness of 2.75 mm and a case height of just 5.0 mm. This surpasses the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultrathin in both categories (movement and overall thickness) by some margin. Of course, shaving off half a millimeter may not seem much, but considering there were only 5.80 mm left, it means losing almost 10 percent of the total height.
The retrograde date and leap year indication pay homage to the retrograde watches of the Gerald Genta brand. Besides these indicators and, of course, the time, the watch also shows the day of the week and the month of the year.
Quick Facts - diameter 40 mm x height 5.80 mm - titanium or platinum case - integrated perpetual calendar movement Calibre BLV305 - 408 components - height 2.75 mm - 35 jewels - 21,600 vph (3 Hz frequency) - power reserve 60 hours - time, date, day of the week, month, leap year - 60,000 Euros in titanium, 90,000 Euros in platinum