A vintage-style chronograph that doesn't need to wait for time to make it more valuable.
In 1969, Zenith released the legendary El Primero caliber - the world's first integrated chronograph with automatic winding, freeing chronograph enthusiasts from the need to manually wind their watches. As is known, models from that era are highly valued among collectors, partly because the chronograph counters acquire a warm brown hue over time. Such dials are referred to as "tropical" in the watchmaking industry.
Inspired by rare vintage pieces from those times, Zenith has introduced an intriguing new model: a chronograph that looks as if it was released several decades ago.
Since the new model did not have specific sources of inspiration, it cannot be said that these watches replicate a particular design from Zenith's archives. The focal point here is the lacquered white dial with brown counters.
The harmonious "chocolate panda" palette is supported by the tachymetric scale design, which is executed in the same tones. The applied hour markers and hands are coated with Super-LumiNova "Old Radium" luminescent material. It recreates the patina effect without compromising the excellent legibility of the dial. The modernity of the design with a pronounced vintage flair is emphasized by the central seconds hand, highlighted in red.
The compact 37 mm steel case references the 1969 model in which the El Primero caliber debuted. It was recreated based on historical drawings, so the watch accurately reproduces the characteristic "barrel" silhouette and pump pushers for chronograph operation typical of the late 1960s. Although the model's aesthetics are distinctly vintage, the manufacturing standards are modern.
The new model is powered by the El Primero 400 caliber, a direct descendant of the original El Primero caliber, which was introduced in 1969 under the designation 3019 PHC. The mechanism, assembled from 278 components, operates at a frequency of 5 Hz and offers a 50-hour power reserve.
The high balance frequency allows time to be measured with an accuracy of up to 1/10 of a second. The aesthetic features of the mechanism, particularly the star-shaped rotor and the "Geneva waves" pattern on it, can be viewed through the transparent sapphire glass case back.
The watch is offered on a vintage "ladder" bracelet, which was specially created for Zenith by Gay Frères in 1969.
The estimated price of the model, which can be purchased in boutiques, online stores, or from official Zenith dealers, is CHF 8,900.