While colors have always been part of brand collections, for a long time they were mainly used for dials - and sometimes, but not always, for straps...
In recent years, we've seen trends towards blue or green dials, as well as a constant love for salmon-toned watches and even purple emerging subtly. But this year, we saw not just dozens of vibrant colored watches, but not just on the dials. Colors were everywhere... Mostly unexpected, but also across all types of watches and combined with textures.
Another trend is to match colored dials with straps or even use colors for cases. Here are some of the most attractive and vibrant colored watches we saw during Watches & Wonders 2024 and Geneva Watch Week.
Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquered Peacock
First introduced in 2022, the Santos-Dumont collection with lacquered cases made a big impression... Originally available in beige, black, or burgundy, this year the concept returns in even more vibrant colors. The idea was and remains to use the classic, thin, and elegant Santos-Dumont watches as a canvas for creativity, but with the use of bright colors for the dial, strap, and... case.
Indeed, the hallmark of this sub-collection is the use of colored lacquer on the case, matching the dial and strap. Among the three models presented this year, the pink gold version with a peacock blue ensemble certainly stands out.
Original, unlike any other, yet elegant, these watches are equipped with an ultra-thin Piaget manual-wound movement and sold at a relatively reasonable price of 15,000 euros. However, they will only be released this year.
Quick Facts: Pink gold case 31.5 x 43.5 x 7.3 mm with peacock blue lacquer - sapphire glass and solid gold case back - peacock blue lacquered matte dial - ultra-thin caliber 430 MC (based on Piaget 430P) with manual winding and a 38-hour power reserve - colored semi-matte alligator leather strap and gold Ardillon buckle - release only in 2024 - reference CRWGSA0098 - 15,000 Swiss Francs
De Bethune DB28XS Purple Rain
The brilliant watchmaker and true alchemist, De Bethune's creative genius Denis Flageollet, has once again distinguished himself this year by creating a stunning iteration of the brand's most elegant and compact watches - the DB28XS. While blue has always been De Bethune's signature color, this year it has fully transitioned to purple, used for the dial, case, and floating lugs.
But in true DB style, it's not about coating, but about a titanium case that has been thermally treated to give it this stunning color. Combined with a guilloché titanium dial, you get an astonishingly sophisticated watch. Initially, I was skeptical, but these watches need to be seen in the metal.
They are delightful. And the case back is also impressive.
Quick Facts: 38.7 mm x 7.4 mm grade 5 titanium case with floating lugs, purple color due to thermal treatment - sapphire crystals front and back - purple titanium guilloché dial with white gold stars - in-house caliber DB2005, manual winding, twin barrel with 6-day power reserve, blued titanium balance wheel - black canvas strap with purple stitching, purple titanium buckle - limited to 25 pieces - 90,000 Swiss Francs
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SLGH021 Genbi Valley
We've mentioned this before, but Grand Seiko creates some of the most vibrant dials. Often inspired by Japanese nature or traditions, using a wide range of colors, and featuring exquisite texture, GS dials are one of the reasons for the brand's recent success. This year, with the release of the SLGH021 Genbi Valley model, the brand presents a very engaging version of their Evolution 9 sports watches with a new texture and unprecedented color...
It's hard to define this dial, inspired by the Genbi region, as its color varies from aquamarine to mint green depending on the angle. The main thing is the appearance, and it's excellent. Apart from the use of Ever-Brilliant Steel, the watch is identical to the SLGH005 White Birch model.
Quick Facts: Ever-Brilliant Steel case 40 mm x 11.7 mm - sapphire crystals front and back - emerald green textured dial inspired by Genbi Valley - in-house caliber 9SA5 Hi-Beat, automatic, 80-hour power reserve, dual impulse escapement - Ever-Brilliant Steel bracelet with folding clasp - limited edition of 1,000 pieces, available June 2024 - reference SLGH021 - 11,100 Euros
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Concept Citrus Green
If there's an area where Moser excels, it's creativity in dial design and color schemes. Being a pioneer in the use of gradient/smoky dials, the brand has made them such a signature element that they don't even need to print their logo - or markers. After dials in blue fumé, red Swiss, funky blue, cosmic green, or Mega Cool (yes, that's the official name), H. Moser & Cie.
Pioneer is now presented in its most expressive version - a minimalist, citrus green lumed design. These watches are not for the faint-hearted. And yet, they couldn't be more Moser...
Quick Facts: Steel case 42.8 mm x 14.2 mm - sapphire crystals front and back - fumé Citrus Green concept dial with sunburst pattern and internal flange filled with Super-LumiNova - in-house automatic caliber HMC 201, 3-day power reserve - alligator leather, rubber, or textile strap with steel clasp or steel bracelet with folding clasp - reference 3201-1204 - from CHF 14,500
IWC Horizon Blue
Here we will not talk about a single specific watch, but about a new color applied to 4 different references. This year, besides presenting one of the most complex perpetual calendars on the market, IWC updated their iconic Portugieser collection with several new colors - including Dune and Obsidian. Undoubtedly, the brightest new color is the light blue Horizon shade combined with a white gold case and a gradient blue Santoni leather strap...
Fresh, modern, and elegant, it is available for the Portugieser Chronograph, Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 models.
Quick Facts: new light blue dial color combined with an 18-carat white gold case, available for Portugieser Chronograph (ref. IW371626, 21,000 Euros), Portugieser Automatic 40 (ref. IW358402, 20,000 Euros), Portugieser Automatic 42 (ref. IW501708, 28,000 Euros) and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (ref. IW503703, 50,500 Euros) - combined with a gradient blue Santoni leather strap and white gold buckle
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Pink
Introduced a couple of weeks before Watches and Wonders, the Black Bay Chrono Pink was an unexpected move from Tudor - a brand we usually associate with classic tool watch colors. Well, this new chronograph is nothing short of classic... Initially, with only the official Tudor images at hand, I wasn't convinced of my opinion.
But we all know how it works. That opinion changed as soon as I had this Black Bay Chrono Pink on my wrist. To be fair, I know it will be subject to debate, but in my view, this pink dial really works.
I wouldn't pick a Black Bay Chrono - I still think the classic Panda version is a safer choice - but on the other hand, this pink version has undeniable character.
And it's still not easy for me to admit that I love a candy pink 41-mm chronograph. Does it matter? Well, the scarcity will settle that question.
Quick Facts: 41 mm x 14.4 mm stainless steel case with black aluminum bezel - sapphire glass front and solid steel case back - matte candy pink dial with black sub-dials - manufacture caliber MT5813 (based on Breitling), automatic chronograph, COSC certified, 70-hour power reserve - 5-link Jubilee bracelet with T-fit clasp - limited release and availability - reference M79360N-0019 - USD 5,675