At the prestigious Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 exhibition, more than 50 brands showcased their latest creations, allowing watch media representatives and the general public to discover a wealth of new releases.
The WatchTested editorial team spent several days studying the new watches presented at the exhibition and compiled a list of the top 10 watches of the year. These are novelties not under embargo for later in the year, which many of the world's most renowned luxury watch manufacturers hope will inspire desire among buyers.
The WatchTested team agreed that the Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 exhibition predominantly features strong and impressive watches crafted for women. These are watches designed primarily for a female audience, yet they might be more than suitable for men as well. This is not only due to their smaller sizes (typically with cases 35-39 mm wide) but also because of their visual and artistic concepts, which are more beautiful than macho.
For perhaps the first time in our top 10 list from Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, there are not just women's watches, but watches that men - members of the WatchTested team - are happy to wear.
This year, there are few new trends to note in the watch industry. Colors remain very popular among buyers, with brands experimenting with all sorts of fun and interesting color combinations and materials. Watch sizes remain modest, although, truth be told, there are many new releases with both smaller and larger case sizes. Nevertheless, 2024 has seen many excellent new men's watches in the 38-40 mm size range.
Another significant trend is inflation. Prices for models are rising sharply in some cases, with many brands publicly declaring their interest in further market penetration. This typically results in significant price increases.
The strategy is that brands are wary of selling large volumes of watches to luxury buyers with middle and high incomes (a class they believe is particularly sensitive to global economic instability) and prefer to focus on wealthier clients who are perceived to be less price-sensitive.
This strategy rarely works as planned, but it is what many brands consider when targeting higher prices with lower production volumes. In any case, despite good deals still being available, the average price of luxury watches from major brands has risen significantly in recent years.
Buyers should explore the market for options before purchasing new releases. Now, let's take a look at the top 10 new watches presented at the exhibition this year.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection
The Toric model is a staple of Parmigiani Fleurier, characterized by its fluted bezel, serious face, and a multitude of horological merits.
The brand has long needed to bring it back and do so with dignity. The expensive Toric returns in the forms of Petite Seconde and Chronograph Rattrapante - the latter being three times more expensive than the former, largely due to its movement made from pure 18-karat rose gold.
On the wrist, the watches are even heavier than you might imagine. Elegant, serious, beautifully made, and unmistakably belonging to Parmigiani Fleurier, the Toric watches are a welcome return. The price for the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric collection is $145,200 USD for the limited Rattrapante model and from $48,400 USD for Petite Seconde.
Rolex 1908 in Platinum
The Rolex 1908 Platinum quickly became a popular model at the Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 exhibition.
It is a rare occurrence when a watch manages to satisfy the diverse tastes and preferences of the WatchTested team and capture our attention so deeply that many of us want to feature it.
Essentially, these are more finely crafted, discerning (finally!), and impressive in terms of watchmaking art - the watches that Cellini should always have been. The price for the Rolex 1908 in platinum (Ref. 52506) is $30,900 USD.
Chanel J12 White Star Couture
It's no surprise that in 2024, Chanel released another high-end version of their popular J12 watches, limited to 12 pieces - the J12 White Star Couture. Let's be honest, Chanel releases many stunning and very expensive models of the J12 and other collectible watches every year. It's something they do very well. So well that men start to envy the interesting and creative works that become the most popular ceramic watches for women in the industry.
And finally, here is one, masculine enough to be worn by bold (and wealthy) men (personally, I found it stunning to wear on the wrist), who can enjoy this style. The J12 White Star starts with a 38-mm main case, which is painted black and actually made of steel. The steel is topped with white ceramic. Along the sides of the case and bracelet, the watch is adorned with baguette-cut diamonds.
Inside the watch is an automatic Kenissi movement. The visual result of the faceted white ceramic, clear dial, black and white contrast effect, and the unexpected play of diamonds on the sides is unlike any previous J12 models. It is yet another example of a watch primarily designed for women but can easily appeal to a man. It is a beautiful watch with a powerful mechanism, certainly capable of impressing both owners and onlookers. The price is approximately €470,000.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie 5260/1455-001
This is not a typical watch from the conservative Geneva company Patek Philippe. With a gold bracelet studded with hundreds of precious stones, these ostentatious watches manage to combine traditional watchmaking with luxurious playfulness.
Additionally, these are women's watches that a man (one who is captivated by their appearance) can wear, considering the Aquanaut's case width of about 39 mm. Inside the watch is an in-house automatic minute repeater movement.
It is framed by the popular sporty-chic look of the Aquanaut Luce case, featuring a stunning design that uses 131 diamonds and 779 colored gemstones to create a sparkling rainbow effect on the case, bracelet (even on the sides), dial, and even the hands.
The price, unsurprisingly, is an astronomical 2,500,000 Swiss francs.
Hermès Cut
In recent years, Hermès seems to be holding its ground (I see it as the next Cartier): H08, Slim Hermès, and several stunning Arceau models. While Hermès Duc Attelé was a much more striking exhibit with peripheral hands, a minute repeater, and a double tourbillon, it was the Cut collection that truly amazed us this year.
The Cut collection is youthful and modern, complementing the larger and square Hermès H08 in many ways. The Cut watches are undoubtedly aimed at women, from press images to their placement on the Hermès website. Like the Bulgari Serpenti, these watches can look stunning on any wrist.
Unlike the Serpenti, they don't have even a slight sense of being jewelry watches. With a 50-hour automatic movement, quick-release straps with buttons, and four case options, there's every reason to believe these watches will be a hit at this year's exhibition. But is there another twist? Hermès has labeled the 36-mm model as “Large,” suggesting we might soon see an even more compact model.
The price for the Cut collection starts at $6,725 USD for the steel model on a rubber strap and reaches $21,900 USD for the two-tone model with gemstones on the corresponding bracelet.
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
A mechanical perpetual calendar accurate until the year 4000, combined with a moon phase indicator that will deviate by only one day over the next 45 million years - how can you not love the new IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar? Throw in a massive platinum 950 case and a multi-layered lacquered glass dial, and you've got an absolute home run of a watch and one of the brightest exhibits at the Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024.
I think we would all be calling our dealers and saying “take my money” if it weren't for the six-figure halo, and although none of us will even be alive to enjoy the benefits of the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, the simple face with which IWC has advanced the perpetual calendar so far makes this exclusive release one of the most notable new watches in recent years. The cost of the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar (Ref. IW505701) is $155,000 USD.
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
While many knowledgeable experts expected an update to Tudor chronographs for the Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 exhibition, the brand once again surprised us by presenting a truly stunning addition to the fan-favorite Black Bay 58 family. The specifications of the Black Bay 58 GMT resemble an enthusiast buyer's checklist.
Deep, vintage “Coke” colorway? Check. Gilt dial? Check. Moderate 39-mm case diameter, thin 12.8-mm thickness, and a METAS-certified chronometer “flyer” GMT in-house movement?
You better believe it. The Black Bay family as a whole remains one of the most popular and widely recognized series of sports watches on the modern market, and we can guarantee that the 58 GMT model will be one of the most sought-after releases of the year. The price of the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT is $4,400 USD on a rubber strap (ref. 7939G1A0NRU-002) and $4,600 USD on a steel bracelet (ref. M7939G1A0NRU-001).
Raymond Weil Millesime Moonphase
The new versions of the Raymond Weil Millesime Moonphase watches caught the team's attention as a collection of deeply appealing watches that we would simply enjoy wearing and forget about the rest of the world. Despite the Millesime Moonphase 2145 watches being too small for me at 35 mm wide, I tried hard, but the combination of the cross-dial, moon phase, Arabic numerals, large hands, flat bezel, and gem-studded lugs was very appealing to me.
Made well, discerning, thin, whimsical, and delightful… Almost as hard to give up as a Labrador puppy. Larger versions of the Millesime Moonphase, 39.5 mm wide, are also available in steel or gold with PVD coating without diamonds.
The price for the Raymond Weil Millesime Moonphase watches ranges from $2,325 USD to $2,575 USD for the model presented here.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
Although the Duometre concept from JLC has been around for several years, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual model truly seems to be the pinnacle of this innovative dual-gear platform. Since the entire purpose of the Duometer series is to allow the brand to integrate numerous complications without compromising timekeeping accuracy, a watch with a heavy mechanism is needed for this platform, and the new Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual more than meets this requirement.
You get not only a luxurious rounded rose gold case but also a perpetual calendar, moon phase indicator, and two separate power reserves. Add to that the fact that JLC added a third additional axis to its already impressive Gyrotoubillon (thus becoming the Heliotourbillon), and you have a model that easily becomes one of the star releases of Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024.
Does anyone have a spare $400,000 I can borrow? The price of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is $438,000 USD.
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver
At every major exhibition like Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, we can divide the new releases into two categories: those we knew about or suspected earlier, and those that appear unexpectedly and capture our attention. The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver watch is undoubtedly one of the best “dark horses” to appear at the exhibition this year. Although there is no shortage of extremely powerful waterproof sports watches in Zenith's stable, the brand's portfolio has long lacked anything resembling a regular diver's watch.
The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver stylishly fills this gap in the lineup, combining for the first time the muscular, modern outlines of the Defy Extreme family with a muscular sunray-engraved dial with an orange tint and a rotating bezel that brings deep satisfaction.
The result is a bright, ultra-modern watch ready for any conditions, from the surface to an impressive 600-meter water resistance. Although we see countless new divers every year, few make us want to jump into the ocean and test their capabilities more than these watches.
The price of the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver (Ref. 95.9601.3620/51.I301 and 95.9600.3620/21.I300) is $11,300 USD.