Since its revival in 2020, the Bulgari Aluminium line has been a major success for the brand, serving as a new entry-level platform with unique personality. The design from the late '90s stands out dramatically in style from most contemporary vintage reissues, combining unconventional material combinations with the brand's signature flamboyant Italian aesthetic. With several dial color options and a chronograph now available, the next logical expansion step is a GMT model. However, with the Bulgari Aluminium GMT, the brand adds more than just a complication, merging the line's distinctive neo-retro style with visual characteristics of some of the most iconic GMT models.
The case design of the Bulgari Aluminium line is its hallmark, and the Aluminium GMT model retains the characteristic style with only minor changes. Like the standard three-hand model, the Aluminium GMT's aluminum case (Bulgari uses the British spelling "aluminium" for official model names) measures 40 mm. The streamlined cylindrical lug module remains a visual highlight, lending the relatively simple and industrial form with matte finishing a touch of modernist mechanical complexity. The rubberized bezel with prominent Bulgari branding has shifted from the stark black of previous models to a softer, more elegant dark blue, giving the design a slightly more nautical feel. For increased durability, the crown and hefty case back are made of titanium. In keeping with the watch's sporty character, the Bulgari Aluminium GMT is water-resistant to 100 meters.
For the Bulgari Aluminium GMT's dial, the brand combines the clean base design of the Aluminum with a new remix of perhaps the most iconic GMT design element. Instead of disrupting the Aluminium line's signature rubber bezel, the Aluminium GMT incorporates a two-tone red and blue 24-hour "Pepsi" ring as a fixed inner bezel. Although the red and blue color combination has a long and storied history in jet-set GMT watches, Bulgari's approach appears stylish and surprisingly restrained in initial images. Apart from the "Pepsi" bezel, the dial is nearly identical to the three-hand Aluminium model with pencil hands, bold luminescent indices, and accent Arabic numerals at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. The red GMT hand with an arrow tip adds an extra sparkle, and the dial adopts a new matte midnight blue color, complementing the bezel and strap. While the unframed date window at the 3 o'clock position could have been a disruptive element, here the issue is exacerbated by the mismatched white date wheel and the more complex window surroundings, including a cut in the 24-hour inner bezel.
Bulgari equips the Aluminium GMT watch with the automatic B192 movement, which, if the B series movement nomenclature remains consistent, is likely based on the well-known ETA 2893-2. The B192 is a new movement for Bulgari, and the brand keeps technical details about it under wraps. Nevertheless, the B192 is rated for a slightly improved 42-hour power reserve at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour, compared to the standard 2893-2's 38-hour power reserve. However, some enthusiasts may take issue, as the B192 base movement likely uses a 24-hour hand with a "quickset" function rather than the more desirable "true GMT" hour hand with a "quickset" local time function. Like all other models in the Aluminium line, the Bulgari Aluminium GMT comes with the brand's signature semi-integrated rubber and aluminum strap. However, in this case, the brand has chosen a midnight blue color to match the dial.
Very comfortable on the wrist due to the lightweight aluminum case and next-generation rubber strap, the red, white, and blue GMT colors are brighter than previous models, fitting the trend with the return of '80s fashion. The signature rubber bezel, giving the watch its personality, looks great in blue, but the inclusion of the two-tone 24-hour flange compresses the dial space more than in the classic 2020 models. Nonetheless, the watch has regained the playful, youthful style full of lightness that made the original Aluminium watch a hit.
By introducing the GMT movement into this recently revived series, the Bulgari Aluminium GMT showcases the brand's desire to expand its (comparatively) entry-level range while beautifully updating the series' core style. The Bulgari Aluminium GMT is now available from official dealers at a price of $3,500. For more detailed information, visit the brand's website.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - BVLGARI BVLGARI ALUMINIUM GMT
Case: 40 mm diameter x 9.70 mm height - aluminum case with titanium crown and case back - weight 68.6 g - blue rubber bezel - water resistance 100 m
Dial: matte blue - blue and red 24-hour GMT scale - indices and Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock treated with Super-LumiNova - hour, minute, and red GMT hand with Super-LumiNova - date window at 3 o'clock
Movement: Caliber B192 (based on Sellita SW 330) - automatic - 25 jewels - diameter 25.60 mm - 28,800 per hour - power reserve 42 h - hours, minutes, seconds, central 24-hour GMT hand, date
Strap: blue rubber with aluminum links - aluminum pin buckle
Reference: 103554
Available: September 2021
Price: 3,500 EUR