Love or hate… These five words sum it all up. To love or to hate.
The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Mint Green Ceramic Chronograph is a conceptually simple, yet technically complex chronograph that I personally enjoyed wearing for five or six weeks, constantly wondering: how could anyone not love this watch?
You cannot make someone who loves this watch hate it. No words or actions will make a fan of these watches give them up. Interestingly, I can imagine the opposite situation with a certain twist. If people wore them for a few weeks, not all, but at least some would change their attitude. I can imagine them saying, "I hate myself for it, but I like it," or "Don’t tell anyone I know, but it’s cool," or "Well, maybe they’re not so bad."
The Unique Character of the Hublot Big Bang UNICO Mint Green Ceramic Chronograph
The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Mint Green Ceramic Chronograph is like a fun, short, and energetic dog with an oscillating clutch. It’s easy to hate a dog for leaving marks on the carpet or breathing in your face before dawn. But its presence invariably lifts your mood, regardless of time and place. If you’re in a good mood, it gets even better. If you’re down - unless very much so - these watches can help you see the light at the end of the tunnel.
These watches are just that. There is hardly an item (except perhaps something deeply personal), especially in the luxury category, capable of guiding you through dark and depressive times. At such moments, luxury items become even more meaningless and unnecessary - as it was in my experience. But if you enjoy the moment, a good watch can enhance that feeling, highlight the event, and fit into it organically. Most luxury chronographs add nothing to good times or memorable events because they are too serious, like math homework. Would you want to carry your math notebook while lying on the beach with your first sip of a drink? I wouldn’t. And since then, I stopped wanting serious watches when I relax and enjoy life.
Why Do These Watches Attract Attention?
After sifting through thousands, perhaps tens of thousands of watches, my threshold of perception is quite high. Nevertheless, I try to set it aside because I understand that people with minimal or average watch collecting experience can also wear this mint-green Hublot. Not only us, the "burned" watch journalists and photographers seeking a new dose of impressions.
So why would anyone choose this Hublot, which looks like it was dipped in turquoise Hammerite paint, over something more traditional and popular? AP Royal Oak will give you more street cred (if that’s your goal, I’m not judging, I'll just say "see you when you pass this phase"), Chopard L.U.C will please the eye, and Lange will satisfy your OCD with a sense of "homework done perfectly." And you can keep going until you reach the mint-green Big Bang on a rubber strap with scattered screws on the case.
Since I put on these watches, and during many moments I experienced with them, they reminded me that some people are just more fun to be around than others. These watches look and feel like a natural complement for such people. (Other watches might also suit cheerful personalities, but if you’re already fuming while reading this, perhaps you’re not among them.) Interestingly, the watch industry offers far more options for those who want to highlight the serious side of their personality, and far fewer for those who want to say to the world: "Hi, how’s it going?"
Technical Specifications and Dimensions
Hublot states that the Big Bang UNICO Mint Green Ceramic Chronograph (reference 441.GS.5221.RX) is 42 mm wide. In reality, it is not. The 42 mm is measured between the small angles of the case at the 8 and 2 o’clock positions (where the chronograph start button is located). Technically, it is 42 mm, and this method of measurement is often used to compare watches that are not side by side. But on the wrist, these watches feel quite different - clearly larger than 42 mm.
Calling them 42 mm is somewhat of a euphemism by Hublot, who sought to follow the trend of reducing watch sizes. They are noticeably smaller than the 45 mm version in which the Big Bang UNICO initially existed, but they are not standard 42 mm - more like around 43.5-44 mm. The integrated strap attachment structure sharply tapers and descends but extends far beyond the bezel, and the straps move away at an angle, which visually increases the lug-to-lug length.
Wrist Comfort and Strap
On the wrist… calling these watches 42 mm is a good move to draw attention. If you’re looking for a bright, large chronograph, you’ll have a little margin in millimeters. The total thickness is 14.5 mm, which is not much thanks to the redesigned UNICO caliber, which we’ll discuss below. The wearing comfort is one of the best in the Big Bang UNICO series, and it is obvious that Hublot has refined the details to make the watch more comfortable. But there are minor things that need fixing. I don’t like the presence of two small welded points on the inside of the clasp, which constantly contact the skin.
The shape of the straps when fastened is now closer to the cross-section of a human wrist, reducing the compromise between the snug fit at the top and bottom of the wrist (where the lugs end) and the flat sections on top and bottom. Previously, if you fastened the strap correctly, the clasp would dig into the inside of the wrist, and if adjusted to the clasp, the strap would be too loose elsewhere. The situation is much improved now, but not perfect, at least on my wrist. The large number of adjustment holes is a pleasant, though not new, improvement by Hublot, and the one-click quick-change strap system works easily and reliably. It’s controlled by buttons reminiscent of micro-USB connectors. Sometimes I removed the straps just to admire the "capsule" on which the watch case is mounted.
Color Scheme and UNICO 2 Movement
Special attention should be paid to the magnificent color combination of components. Regardless of the material - ceramic, metal, rubber, or plastic - Hublot managed to combine colors into a harmonious whole, which is technically challenging in itself. The main technological gem is the UNICO 2 movement. Ariel and I interviewed Christophe Liner, the movement developer at Hublot, specifically about innovations in the UNICO caliber. This model features an updated design, and I highly recommend reading the article - the engineering details, previously unknown and unseen, impress even the most traditional watchmakers.
UNICO is fully revealed in the Hublot Big Bang UNICO Mint Green Ceramic Chronograph, and this is evident not only in the name. Unlike many modern expensive movements, which show little of interest, this caliber has impressive functions. The column wheel is standard for this price category, as is the silicon anchor wheel (although it is less universal than it seems). But the real star is the oscillating clutch located just above the 8 o’clock mark.
This wheel with many curved teeth is complemented by a similar wheel beneath it. This is the oscillating clutch that starts and stops the chronograph on demand. The chronograph needs energy and time information, which are transmitted by the clutch. Typically, clutches in mechanical chronographs are positioned vertically or horizontally. We have discussed them multiple times. This clutch oscillates - tilting towards and away from the driving wheel.
This is a true innovation in watchmaking. You see it in action every time you interact with the chronograph - hence the open dial and its location around 8 o’clock. If Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, or Rolex did this, people would tattoo this image on the forehead of newborns. So it’s worth appreciating this. Especially considering that it’s not an exotic solution intended for a limited edition of 100-500 watches a year. The clutch is installed in all watches with the UNICO 2 movement, which are produced by the thousands, if not tens of thousands annually. It’s an elegant engineering solution and a great application of modern manufacturing technologies.
I want to own these watches just for this one engineering detail.
Thin and Refined Movement
Moreover, the UNICO 2 is 1.3 mm thinner than the original, despite the implementation of a new modular system for installing the entire escapement, which facilitates long-term maintenance. Lubrication is performed by a fully automated system at the Hublot manufacture in Nyon, ensuring the perfect functioning of all oil points. The first-generation Pellaton automatic winding system has been replaced with a double reversing switch with ball bearings. The chronograph hand, which is my favorite part of this Big Bang and is in my personal top 3 engineering solutions in watchmaking, is regulated and held in place by a tiny ceramic ball inside the movement. I want these watches at least for this one engineering detail.
Conclusion: Innovation and Individuality
Wearing a watch with the UNICO movement is a point of pride. It is one of the most inventively designed and functional in-house chronographs of the last decade. 72 hours of power reserve, 4 Hz frequency, one of the quietest movements (winding and ticking sounds), 354 components - these are just the tip of the technological iceberg.
However, perhaps the most important thing is that you wear a watch that no one forced you to choose, convinced you, or "influenced" you to buy. Well, maybe this article helps a bit. I don’t want to diminish other more traditional and convenient luxury watches. Spending over $50 on a watch is an emotional and bold step that deserves respect and support. But I believe a bold, bright, and unusual choice deserves at least a little more admiration.
Returning this strange, mint-green, massive, and ridiculously looking chronograph was like bringing back a fun, little, and energetic dog to the shelter. It leaves a mark because its influence - small or large - was tangible and real in many moments. In conclusion, I can only say one thing: if you have a choice between a fun watch and a more boring, approved-by-surroundings option, always choose the fun one.
For the serious: Hublot Big Bang UNICO Mint Green Ceramic Chronograph (Hublot 441.GS.5221.RX) costs $26,400 USD.