Having worn the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic with a salmon/copper dial (model Bulgari 103856) for several months in a full review, I pondered what impresses me most about them.
After several months of wearing and almost nine (!) years of interacting with this collection, I can confidently say that these watches still feel as surreal as they did in early 2017 when I first put them on. For reference: Bulgari's pursuit of ultra-thin watchmaking began much earlier, but it was the Octo Finissimo Automatic model that embodied the brand's expertise in this area and made it accessible to the public—as accessible as luxury watches priced at several thousand dollars can be.
Why the Octo Finissimo Automatic Can Be Called an Icon
Although I have long had a negative attitude towards the word "iconic" in any field, especially in watchmaking, it must be acknowledged that all truly iconic watch models have one thing in common: they can be revived again and again, and even though we, as enthusiasts, change and grow, the watches remain a step ahead. They continue to make an impression comparable to when they were first introduced. Examples are the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, Rolex Submariner, and Omega Speedmaster—these models have hardly changed over the years, and even decades. Despite changes in personal tastes, with each new wearing, it feels like starting from scratch.
The Secret of Longevity and Uniqueness of Octo Finissimo Automatic
The questions "How? Why?" constantly arise when I look at the Octo Finissimo Automatic. They rarely appear when it comes to new models like the Yacht-Master 40 or Aqua Terra. Not because the latter are worse—I dislike when watches are praised for being "iconic" rather than for their real qualities—but because they are more malleable and quickly become mundane. With true icons (be it watches, cars, or works of art), I try to understand what design and engineering solutions were behind their creation, what challenges were overcome, which inspiring touches made them unique. In other words, I try to unravel the "recipe" of success that ultimately captivated the public.
New Becomes Familiar Quickly
We often, as watch enthusiasts, too quickly take bold and innovative models for granted—literally soon after their debut. The "new norm" is established very quickly.
Call me slow, but it took me almost nine years to admit: the Octo Finissimo Automatic is a watch that surprises and confuses me just as much as other great models. I often take them in my hands, rotate them, view them from different angles. Sometimes it's just a thin metal layer with a black circle (cabochon on the crown) peeking out from under the sleeve. They are thinner than some jewelry bracelets. At other times, it's a broad metal band hiding hundreds of parts working in harmony. And even after all this time, I can't say: "Now I fully understand them." A similar feeling was evoked by the first Octo watches during the chronograph review in 2016, but the Finissimo Automatic amplifies this feeling tenfold.
Geometry and Design: Simplicity and Complexity in One
It's amazing how something so complex can be created from a limited set of shapes. The design has no ovals or smooth curves—only two circles set against a background of numerous straight lines intersecting at sharp angles. At the same time, the Octo creates tension in perception through the contrast of the circles with two octagons: a matte one serving as a flange around the dial, and a shiny one peeking from under the bezel only at the corners, hiding its straight sides.
In other words, the Octo Finissimo Automatic is difficult to "understand" because it creates an infinitely repeating pattern: a circle turns into an octagon, the octagon into a circle, and so on. This is radically different from watches with one "trick," like the Royal Oak with its octagonal bezel secured with screws. The Royal Oak is also beautiful, but more understandable at first glance. Its first impressions are familiar and easier to perceive.
Assessment Over the Years: Octo Finissimo Automatic Excels
Now, almost ten years later, we can evaluate the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic from a perspective that was previously unavailable. The first impression is just the beginning, and the model was met with enthusiasm by the community. The integrated bracelet and unique design made the watch instantly recognizable.
Today, the Octo Finissimo has hardly changed, but we and the market have. Despite my expectation of a narrower version, these watches remain confident, unique, and interesting. Their geometry, variety of finishes, and perfectly balanced proportions enhance their appeal. Can they be considered an icon? For me, it doesn't matter, but if asked, then yes—after nine years, they possess all the characteristics that make watches iconic.
Variety of Models and Executions
During this time, Bulgari expanded the lineup, adding many dial and material options, displaying typical Italian enthusiasm. Among them, the fun Sejima edition stands out, as well as the fully black ceramic version, which would be my choice for daily wear. There are also series with drawings by Fabrizio Buonamassa, models made from CarbonGold, gold, titanium, polished and matte ceramics. Let's not forget the chronographs, tourbillons, minute repeaters—all part of the rich Octo Finissimo collection, familiar to most readers interested in ultra-thin watches.
Technical Features of the BVL 138 Movement
From a watchmaker's perspective, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic remains unparalleled. The BVL 138 caliber, only 2.23 mm thick, is an impressive achievement for an automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve, operating at a frequency of 3 Hz. Its layout, dimensions, and execution are unique. If you're looking for something new and impressive, this movement surpasses most automatic calibers in its price segment.
The platinum micro-rotor adds sophistication, although, in my opinion, it could be decorated more generously. Bulgari likely realized this, which is why there's a traditional perlage finish under the rotor—a tribute to classical watchmaking art, embodied in a modern mechanism. The massive balance bridge provides reliability and rigidity to the thin mechanism, and the large plates ensure the strength of a mechanism as thick as a 50-cent coin.
Small Details and Attention to Assembly
The tiniest holes in the parts allow Bulgari watchmakers—this is a completely in-house caliber—to check the engagement and rotation of the mechanism's wheels during assembly. This is another touch, reminiscent of the painstaking work on the development and production of the Finissimo caliber family.
Comfort and Appearance on the Wrist
On the wrist, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic with a salmon dial can appear both impressive and modest. Impressive—thanks to the broad case and massive bracelet links, modest—when the watch hides under a shirt sleeve. My favorite part of wearing them is watching the elegant curve of the bezel and the sharp profile of the thin case peek from under the sleeve. This spectacle is available only to me and possibly an attentive interlocutor.
The bracelet is very comfortable due to the thin and narrow links. It is flexible, like a thin sheet of paper, and easily takes the shape of an "S." This is important because rigid bracelets with long links do not conform to the wrist's shape and create discomfort. The flexible bracelet adapts to contours, providing comfort. Perhaps it's the only metal bracelet I can forgive for the lack of micro-adjustment, as the thin links allow for a good compromise. Additional comfort is provided by the integrated clasp, which merges with the bracelet's notches.
Unique Bracelet Clasp
These are perhaps the only watches—if you know others, write in the comments—where the folding clasp is harmoniously embedded in the bracelet's notch. I don't understand why Bulgari was the first to implement this on a large scale, while other reputable brands had decades to solve this problem. This design is not only aesthetic but also comfortable: a thick clasp does not press on the wrist. This feature, combined with the thin links, makes the Octo Finissimo Automatic comfortable on almost any wrist (mine is 18 cm in circumference), unless the wide bracelet bothers you.
Impressions of the Movement and Others' Reactions
During the review, I was curious to pass the watch to other watch enthusiasts. Everyone noted their thinness and quality, but especially marveled at the diameter and complex construction of the movement, as well as how many details Bulgari fit in such a thin case. Many first admired the appearance and then with surprise examined the case back, revealing the movement. It's always a fun moment when you realize how impressive the thinness and complexity of the mechanism is.
Return of Awe and Value of Novelty
This is a topic for a separate, deeper discussion, but the fact remains: we, watch enthusiasts, tend to quickly take innovations for granted. The "new norm" arrives quickly. However, when watches are first handled, the joy of discovery returns, and engineering achievements receive a new wave of recognition. The expressions on faces when familiarizing with the Octo Finissimo's thin mechanism remind us of the joy of such discoveries. After all, it is unlikely that a 2.23 mm mechanism with a balance bridge and platinum micro-rotor won't bring a smile. It's impressive in itself and especially in the context of luxury watches, where such thin automatic mechanisms are rare.
Dial Features
In the model in question (Bulgari 103856), the salmon dial changes shades from metallic bronze to warm sandy and rich salmon depending on the lighting. The main hands and small seconds hand have facets, which is not easy given their thinness, but allows them to effectively reflect light. The watch is legible even in low light—minimal light is enough to see the hands and markers.
Conclusion: Octo Finissimo as a Symbol of Technical Progress and Creativity
The Octo Finissimo has become not only Bulgari's calling card but also a landmark phenomenon in the watch world. It is one of the few entirely new models of the 2010s that vividly demonstrates the technical capabilities and creative potential of the Swiss watch industry.
Conclusion
Octo Finissimo is a watch that is easy to recognize but rarely encountered everywhere. They are easy to master but don't become boring. Playful, yet filled with serious and unique engineering solutions. Personally, I look forward to a smaller version, even if it comes at the cost of reducing the power reserve or abandoning automatic winding. Who knows, will we ever see it?
Until then, I can recommend the Octo Finissimo Automatic to anyone considering adding ultra-thin watches to their collection. Be sure to try them on in person—their proportions and bracelet are unique. I really enjoyed wearing these watches, and perhaps I will start looking for the Sejima version... The price of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic (model 103856) is about $13,600.
Key Features of Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
| Feature | Value |
|---|---|
| Model | Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic (103856) |
| Movement Thickness (BVL 138) | 2.23 mm |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Balance Frequency | 3 Hz |
| Case Material | Steel / options in gold, titanium, ceramic |
| Dial Color | Salmon with metallic tint |
| Movement Type | Automatic |
| Bracelet Features | Integrated, flexible, with unique clasp |
| Price | $13,600 |
This review reveals the technical, design, and performance features of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic, confirming its status as a unique and impressive representative of ultra-thin luxury watches.
