In recent years, I have had the opportunity to familiarize myself with a wide range of Yema watches.
Throughout numerous hands-on tests, I noticed that I am particularly drawn to classic models of the brand with unusual designs. My absolute favorite remains the limited edition Superman FAF Search And Rescue, released a few years ago. However, I also hold the Skin Diver series in high regard. What these models have in common are the large retro hour markers that form their unique character. This attractive feature sets them apart from many vintage watches of competitors. When the French brand announced the Skin Diver version with a fully luminous dial as part of The Five Acts series, I was curious to learn more about it. Could the classic Skin Diver handle such a task? It's time to find out.
The Five Acts Series: Concept and Composition
To start, it's worth explaining what The Five Acts series is. Yema decided to create five limited models equipped with in-house calibers that reflect the evolution of various watch designs of the brand. The series includes:
- Navygraf Phantom CMM.10
- Rallygraf Alpine Series MKII
- Yema × Silberstein Marine 2 CMM.20 collaboration model
- Superman Titanium Tourbillon CMM.31
- Skin Diver Full Lume CMM.20 (the one I will review)
For this intriguing set, Yema experimented with materials, colors, calibers, and designs to create five radically different watches.
Features of Yema Skin Diver Slim Full Lume CMM.20 LE
Let's take a closer look at the limited model Skin Diver Slim Full Lume CMM.20. The case is made of stainless steel, typical for the Skin Diver series, with a diameter of 39 mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 47 mm, and an overall thickness of 12.2 mm. The case itself is only 9.9 mm thick without the glass, while the additional volume is created by the double-domed sapphire crystal.
The case provides water resistance up to 300 meters and has a predominantly matte finish with polished bevels. The unidirectional diver bezel is equipped with a black sapphire insert with a white 60-minute scale that glows blue in the dark. The cream-colored luminescent marker at the 60-minute mark glows green.
The same lume color scheme is applied to the dial. At first glance, it appears to be a classic white dial with clear printing. However, it is actually a full-size luminous dial that glows bright blue in the dark. The black hour markers are filled with cream Grade A Super-LumiNova, which glows bright green.
As in previous Skin Diver models, the large markers at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock have unique numerals that add a retro charm to the overall design. The black hands are filled with the same cream lume as the markers and glow green. The look is completed by a white luminous fluororubber (FKM) strap with a 'Scales' pattern. Like the dial, this comfortable strap glows blue in low light conditions, creating a full light show.
Yema Manufacture Morteau 20 Caliber
On the back of the watch, you can see the in-house Yema CMM.20 caliber. This automatic movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, provides a 70-hour power reserve, and accuracy within -3/+7 seconds per day. It is a thin and modern caliber with a bidirectional tungsten micro-rotor, Incabloc anti-shock system, and Glucydur balance. The main plates and bridges have a satin finish and microbead blasting.
Additionally, the movement is coated with black ALD (atomic layer deposition), which harmoniously matches the black bezel insert. This design highlights the modern character of the watch with an emphasis on luminescence. As I noted in the previous review of the Skin Diver Slim, the retro design contrasts sharply with the modern look of the caliber. However, in this full lume version, the combination looks more natural.
Comfort and Wearing Impressions of Yema Skin Diver Slim Full Lume CMM.20 LE
Although I usually prefer diver watches on a steel bracelet, Yema's retro designs look great on a rubber strap. In some models, the strap even adds charm and emphasizes the vintage style.
Examples include the bronze Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 LE, which I tested last year, and the stylish Superman Tropical CMM.10 LE, created in collaboration with Le Petit Poussoir. These models demonstrate how the strap enhances the vintage perception. In the case of the new Skin Diver Full Lume, the focus is more on the overall concept - the strap is bright white.
I particularly like the thin profile, making the Skin Diver Slim extremely comfortable. The new model confirms all the positive qualities of the line, adding a fundamentally new level of luminosity.
During the few days I spent with the watch, I often turned off the lights in the office and at home - and every time the watch literally 'jumped' off the wrist thanks to its bright glow. When activating a luminescent flashlight, the effect is enhanced. The only slight downside is that the white rubber strap gradually loses its initial purity of color. Nevertheless, in this case, it fits naturally into the overall concept and pairs well with the design.
Final Conclusions on Yema Skin Diver Slim Full Lume CMM.20 LE
Overall, I find the idea of The Five Acts series successful. It demonstrates Yema's progress as a brand. In-house calibers are a significant testament to the company's technological development. The limited models show how modern materials and colors blend with retro design, creating a fresh take on the brand's style.
In this context, the new limited edition Skin Diver Slim is an interesting modern interpretation of the classic 1960s. The full lume gives it a unique character, distinguishing it from standard models. Considering the presence of the in-house caliber CMM.20, I am confident that this model will quickly find its fans among Yema enthusiasts.
A total of 400 pieces will be released, priced at €2,450 / US$2,725 / £2,200. Thus, the Yema Skin Diver Slim Full Lume CMM.20 LE becomes an accessible limited model with an in-house movement and an original luminous dial concept.
