Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel

Now you can enjoy the distinctive features without an excessively high price.

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in a steel case, certified by the Geneva Seal, is certainly not a budget model, but it serves as a sort of entry into the world of Roger Dubuis. And what an entry it is - into the world of high-end hand-crafted watchmaking. With a case size of 40 × 11.25 mm made of steel, the watch looks elegant. The retrograde day of the week and date indicators are a historical nod, while the variety of movement finishes enhances the watch impression. My personal experience with this model at Watches and Wonders was interesting and provided much food for thought.

History and Positioning of Roger Dubuis

Since its founding in 1995, the brand was never intended for the mass consumer. Style, price, and limited production made each Roger Dubuis creation unique, expensive, and rare. This situation persists today, although the rapid development and excess that led to the concept of Hyper Horology have somewhat subsided. The best confirmation of this is last year's release of the historically accurate Hommage La Placide model with a 38 mm pink gold case and a deep blue dial with mother-of-pearl accents. Another example of how even in the flamboyant world of Roger Dubuis 'less is more' is the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar model in pink gold. It retained the signature Excalibur features - triple lugs and a notched bezel - but had a moderate size of 40 × 11.25 mm, allowing the watch to be worn under a shirt cuff. Now there is a steel version.

Practical Impressions of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel

Last year's version in pink gold with white mother-of-pearl accents looked very elegant but was more of a dress model. Roger Dubuis produces many sports watches, such as the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, but these models are large and expensive. Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium and Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium models, measuring 42 mm, are more suitable for everyday wear, but also come with a high price. Now, the steel version of the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar (ref. DBEX1209) has appeared. The price, excluding taxes, is €36,900 / $43,900 - not making the watch accessible to the general public, but significantly expanding the entry possibilities into the brand's world. Moreover, the style has changed.

Bracelet - A Winning Solution

Let's start with the bracelet, as it helps to understand one of the complex design features - the triple lugs. I really liked the titanium versions of Excalibur Tourbillon and Monobalancier thanks to the titanium bracelet. The multi-link design was incredibly comfortable on the wrist and visually pleasing. Moreover, the bracelet perfectly integrated with the triple lugs, visually making them almost invisible.

In the steel version of the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, the case is relatively compact, with distinct architectural shapes and a finish combining polishing, sandblasting, and satin. It also features the signature notched bezel typical of Excalibur, and massive protective guards for the crown. The steel bracelet perfectly complements the 100 m water resistance, creating a harmonious and balanced image. The steel bracelet is brighter and more lively than the titanium one, giving the watch a sporty character. But it's not just the bracelet that contributes to this.

Dial Color - 'Cosmic Blue'

This model lacks mother-of-pearl. Instead, Roger Dubuis chose a shade called 'Cosmic Blue,' with silvery accents giving the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in steel a sporty and everyday look. The dial is crafted with high detail. On the concentrically engraved flange are rhodium-plated hour markers with white Super-LumiNova inserts.

The flange hides the attachment points of the two retrograde hands, creating a mysterious effect. Although the dial is mostly covered, several strategically placed openings reveal some elements of the retrograde calendar. To enhance aesthetics and comply with the Geneva Seal, visible and inverted parts are held by silver bridges with Côtes de Genève finishing.

Two large crescent-shaped indicators for the day of the week and date are paired with prominent retrograde hands. These hands are crafted as openwork swords and match the style of even larger and more expressive hour and minute hands made of white gold.

Most watch brands believe that a bit of red adds sportiness. Roger Dubuis adheres to this opinion, and the red accents on the arc-shaped scales and hand tips work well in this steel version of the Excalibur. To emphasize the seriousness of horological art, the dial features the 'Biretrograde Calendar' inscription, and the Geneva Seal symbol is prominently displayed.

Caliber RD840 with 244 Components

Inside the steel version of the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is the same movement as in pink gold - caliber RD840 with a frequency of 4 Hz, automatic winding, and complete finishing of all parts, including the invisible ones. According to the brand, the movement with 244 parts uses no fewer than 14 types of finishing.

An openwork rotor with a pink gold weight winds the spring. When fully wound, the watch runs for up to 60 hours. The first glance through the dial promises a lot, and the view through the sapphire case back provides aesthetic pleasure.

Wearing the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar

As expected, the 40-millimeter watch sits very comfortably on the wrist. The moderate case size and perfectly matched multi-link bracelet create this feeling. The Cosmic Blue color is between dark blue and electric blue. I was worried it would look too cold and harsh, but that didn't happen - the shade truly has a cosmic depth. It pairs well with the matte-polished steel case and bracelet, emphasizing a sporty and casual style.

The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is another example of Roger Dubuis' current evolution. The brand is gradually expanding its range of watches with more compact sizes that maintain a connection to history while being presented in a modern key. In the future, a 40-millimeter Monobalancier version in steel with a matching bracelet can be expected. That would be interesting. A modern interpretation of the elegant Sympathie model or a modern Hommage chronograph is also possible. Just thoughts out loud.

What are your impressions of the 40-millimeter steel Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar? Please share in the comments.

Technical Specifications

This review demonstrates how Roger Dubuis combines the traditions of high horology with modern design and technological innovations, offering models that meet the demands of discerning collectors and connoisseurs of complex mechanisms.