El Primero, the first. A name forever etched in horological history as the very first automatic chronograph, unveiled to the public in January 1969. This iconic chronograph has stood the test of time, literally, and it is now more alive than ever. Zenith has logically adopted this caliber and uses it in a wide range of chronographs, from original to more modern interpretations. All the more reason to celebrate this legendary mechanism with 6 watches that Zenith is presenting in 2021, using the El Primero platform.
While wristwatches with chronographs had existed for several decades before the advent of El Primero, they always used hand-wound movements. That was until 1969 when not one, but three movements were introduced that forever changed the perception of mechanical chronographs. The compact design of the Zenith El Primero uses a column wheel for smoother chronograph operation and a horizontal clutch to connect the chronometric movement with the chronograph complication. And of course, what was rare then and still is now, it operates at a higher frequency for greater accuracy (36,000 vph or 5 Hz).
Despite seemingly insurmountable challenges like the quartz crisis and the owner of the Zenith brand ceasing production in the 1970s, the El Primero made a comeback in the 1980s and has been in continuous production ever since. Yes, over the years it has been updated several times, but the core of the caliber has remained the same as in 1969. Updates included the use of new, more efficient materials to improve the performance of the mechanism. Over the years, we have detailed El Primero, including a deeper explanation of its creation history.
In 2021, the brand virtually updated its entire collection, presenting numerous watches, each of which in its own way pays tribute to the legend that is this caliber. We have selected 6 watches introduced by Zenith only this year that beautifully demonstrate the versatility of El Primero.
The Versatile Model - Zenith Chronomaster Sport
At the beginning of this Buying Guide is perhaps one of the best sports chronographs on the modern market. The Zenith Chronomaster Sport is literally the most versatile model of all the El Primero watches that Zenith currently offers. Although the watch retains the overall look and feel of the early El Primero, with a very readable dial and signature overlapping chronograph and small second dials in blue, gray, and silver, they add some very sporty elements.
The Zenith Chronomaster Sport, like other models in the collection, fully utilizes the updated El Primero 3600 caliber, which was introduced in 2019. The El Primero 3600 uses fewer components and modern materials for greater efficiency. When activated, the central chronograph second hand sweeps across the dial once every ten seconds thanks to the 5 Hz frequency, allowing full use of the movement's capabilities with an accuracy of 1/10th of a second. The in-house caliber is housed in a modern stainless steel case with a diameter of 41 mm, topped with a black ceramic bezel. The dial can be either black or white, which, in our opinion, looks best.
A few months after the initial release of the Chronomaster Sport, Zenith introduced a more luxurious gold model. However, as beautiful as it is, we would still choose the Chronomaster Sport model with a steel case and white dial, as it is the closest in spirit to the original El Primero A386 among all available Chronomaster Sport models… The Zenith Chronomaster Sport model is part of the permanent Zenith collection and is priced at 9,400 Swiss francs on a rubber strap and 9,900 Swiss francs on a steel bracelet. The Chronomaster Sport in rose gold costs about twice as much.
Quick Facts - 41 mm diameter x 13.6 mm height - stainless steel case (also available in gold), matte and polished - ceramic bezel - sapphire crystal on both sides - white or black dial with tricolor overlapping subdials in blue, gray, and silver - El Primero 3600, in-house development - automatic, integrated high-frequency chronograph - column wheel and horizontal clutch - 35 jewels - 5 Hz frequency - 60-hour power reserve - stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap - 9,400 Swiss francs (rubber strap), 9,900 Swiss francs (steel bracelet), 19,900 Swiss francs (rose gold, leather strap)
The Vintage Model - Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385
After so many years of faithful service of the El Primero caliber, Zenith feels it right to honor it with a “return” - the release of watches dedicated to key models of the past. One of the most amusing models to date is the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385. The A385 model was part of a trilogy of watches released in 1969, and the A386 model was the most classic and obviously the most famous of the three.
The Chronomaster Revival A385 is a very close reissue of the original A385 model, as we have already covered in our detailed review, with a fun smoky brown dial. The dial, which Zenith claims is the first of its kind, although we have not been able to verify this. But for now, we'll take their word for it.
The case of the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 has a distinctly barrel or tonneau shape, which was quite popular at the time and fits perfectly for the revival era watches. Vintage proportions - 37 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm in height. The dial has a rather unconventional brown gradient finish combined with white subdials. If you look at the A385 watches from 1969, it becomes amazing how close they are, right down to the ladder bracelet. But then again, considering that Zenith's El Primero watches have been produced since 1969 with practically no changes, you simply have to get close to this model. The price of the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is 7,800 euros on a leather strap or 8,300 euros on a ladder-style steel bracelet.
Quick Facts - 37 mm diameter x 12.6 mm height - stainless steel tonneau-shaped case with matte and polished surfaces - classic pump-style pushers - sapphire crystal - threaded sapphire case back - smoky brown gradient dial - white subdials - rhodium-plated hands and indices - El Primero 400, in-house development - automatic winding - 278 components - 36,000 vph (5 Hz) - 50-hour power reserve - ladder-style steel bracelet (also available with leather strap) - from 7,800 euros
The Original - Zenith Chronomaster Original
The El Primero model was introduced in 1969 in three different modifications: A384, A385, and A386. While we just reviewed the A385 model with its unique dial, the more traditional A386 model is undoubtedly the most famous of this trio. Today, this model is a very sought-after vintage piece, but Zenith has a solution for those who cannot acquire it: the Zenith Chronomaster Original.
If the classic 38-millimeter Chronomaster models released earlier were more of a tribute to the A386 model, the new Zenith Chronomaster Original is almost an exact recreation of the legendary El Primero - at least visually. The watch is crafted in a vintage-style 38 mm steel case, about 13 mm in height, with sharp faceted lugs and a very close-to-original dial. Zenith allowed itself some liberties in the mechanics of the Chronomaster Original, as it uses the modern El Primero 3600 movement, which has a slightly different layout and finish. Perhaps this is the perfect combination of classic style elements, compact size, and modern materials and technologies.
Presented in five versions, the watches with a white dial are undoubtedly the most attractive, as they are closest to the inaugural El Primero watches. The watches are offered on a leather or steel bracelet, as well as in a gold case (with a leather strap), if you fancy a bit more. Prices start at 8,400 Swiss francs.
Quick Facts - 38 mm diameter x approx. 13 mm height - stainless steel or gold case, matte and polished - faceted lugs - box sapphire crystal, with sapphire case back - silver dial with tricolor subdials or black dial with silver subdials - El Primero 3600, in-house production - automatic, integrated high-frequency chronograph - column wheel and horizontal clutch - 35 jewels - 5 Hz frequency - 60-hour power reserve - stainless steel bracelet or leather strap - CHF 8,400 (steel, leather), CHF 8,900 (steel, steel) or CHF 18,900 (gold)
The Geeky One - Zenith Chronomaster Original
First of all, we don't really like the E-Commerce designation for this Zenith Chronomaster variant. But anyway... These watches are undoubtedly a very beautiful interpretation. They should have been named Zenith Chronomaster Original “Tricolori” for a bit more fun...
Now that this is out of the way, let's delve deeper into this Zenith Chronomaster Original E-Commerce model and explain why it is the most “geeky” for us. As you probably all know, the Zenith El Primero A386 model from 1969 featured a three-color 3/6/9 layout of the two chronograph counters and the small seconds subdial. Since then, this feature has served as an inspiration for many Zenith El Primero watches. The classic blue-gray-silver registers, partially overlapping each other, give the watch its legendary look.
So why is this model the most “geeky”? For the simple reason that it pushed the philosophy of tricolor watches further than any other chronomasters. If you look closely at the dial, you can see that the central chronograph second scale 1/10 is divided into three color sections corresponding to the tone of each subdial. This concept extends to the gray calf leather strap with minimal blue and silver stitching. In all other respects, the strap is in the familiar Chronomaster Original style.
Overall, this model is not revolutionary, but for enthusiasts and collectors, it can offer something different while remaining classic in appearance. In this regard, there is no need to go overboard with the Defy 21 or Defy Extreme unless you want to. You can, but there's no alternative. The watches are sold exclusively through the Zenith online boutique at a price of 8,300 euros.
Quick Facts - 38 mm diameter x approx. 13 mm height - matte and polished steel case - sapphire crystal, sapphire case back - water resistance 50 m - silver dial with tricolor subdials and 1/10 chronograph second scale - faceted and applied indices - El Primero 3600 caliber - automatic, integrated high-frequency chronograph - column wheel and horizontal clutch - 35 jewels - 5 Hz frequency - 60-hour power reserve - gray calf leather strap with special stitching and folding clasp - 8,300 EUR
The Fashionable One - Zenith Defy 21 Urban Jungle
A little green, even more green, and yet more green. That's how you can describe the Zenith Defy 21 Urban Jungle. Even though the watch looks very fashionable, as green watches pop up left, right, and center, this shouldn't distract you from the fact that this is a very capable chronograph watch. And if the green Zenith Defy 21 isn't to your taste, there are plenty of alternative color and material combinations available. Regardless of color, this is a very modern watch with a skeletonized dial hiding the intricate mechanics within.
The Defy 21 collection is practically El Primero turned up to 11. It uses the blueprints of the regular El Primero series of movements, but they have been significantly reworked into a high-performance chronograph movement with two regulators. The secondary regulator is used only when the chronograph function is operating and has an incredible frequency of 50 Hz. The advantage of this complex system is that Defy 21 series watches are capable of timing events with an accuracy of up to 1/100th of a second instead of the already impressive 1/10th of a second for the Calibre El Primero 3600.
Prices vary depending on the execution of the Defy 21, these Urban Jungle with a green ceramic case and bezel are priced at 14,400 euros.
Quick Facts - 44 mm diameter x 14.50 mm height - matte green ceramic case and bezel with microblasted finish - sapphire crystal front and back - water resistance 100 m - skeletonized dial with green coating and black and silver chronograph registers - El Primero 9004, in-house production - automatic winding with green star-shaped rotor - 53 jewels - double regulating organ (5 Hz for timekeeping, 50 Hz for chronograph) - central chronograph second hand with 1/100th second accuracy - 50-hour power reserve - black rubber strap with green Cordura effect - EUR 14,400
The Warrior - Zenith Defy Extreme
If you thought that the Zenith Defy 21 was already a bit extravagant, then the Zenith Defy Extreme is even more extravagant. True to its name, these Zenith Defy are only suitable for large wrists. It is made in a titanium case with a width of 45 mm, a very angular and masculine shape. What distinguishes it from the Defy 21, apart from its size, are the sturdy, closed pushers and the larger crown. Secondly, the 12-sided ring under the bezel gives the watch an even more standout look. For those who want to push the boundaries even further, the watches are available in a dark gray case and bracelet, as well as a version with gold elements.
It uses the El Primero 9004 caliber, on the same base as in the Defy 21 series. On the slightly tinted sapphire dial, you can see the futuristic high-frequency chronograph mechanism, which can also be seen through the sapphire case back. The titanium version has the same signature gray-blue and silver subdials of the chronograph and small seconds as most other watches with the El Primero movement. However, the hands are much more pronounced, emphasizing the extreme look of the collection.
Whether you like it or not, there's no denying that the Zenith Defy Extreme looks impressive. According to Zenith, it is the most futuristic, most extreme interpretation of a chronograph watch, especially with the mesmerizing high-speed mechanism. The price of the Zenith Defy Extreme is 17,600 euros.
Quick Facts - 45 mm diameter x 15.4 mm height - titanium case with or without coating, polished, sandblasted, and matte - 12-sided insert under the bezel in black titanium or gold - sapphire crystal on both sides - capped pushers framing a large crown - water resistance 200 m - sapphire dial with applied subdials - large hour and minute hands - El Primero 9004, in-house production - automatic winding with green star-shaped rotor - 53 jewels - double regulating organ (5 Hz for chronometer, 50 Hz for chronograph) - central chronograph second hand with 1/100th second accuracy - 50-hour power reserve - integrated titanium bracelet or rubber strap - from 17,600 euros
For more information and online orders, visit Zenith-Watches.com.