Recently, one of our readers asked me to share my experience of owning the Omega Speedmaster with Calibre 321.
He also wanted to know how often I wear this model compared to the classic steel Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with Calibre 3861, released the following year (2021). These are fair questions, and today I will try to provide a detailed answer. Over six years of ownership, I have formed a clearer opinion about the Speedmaster Calibre 321 model, reference 311.30.40.30.01.001.
Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321
When the Speedmaster with Calibre 321 was introduced on the first Tuesday of 2020, it was already the second Speedmaster model with the new 321 movement. In 2019, Omega first introduced this calibre in a platinum version of the Speedmaster Professional with an onyx dial and meteorite counters. The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 became the first steel version with this movement since the late 1960s, which generated significant interest among Speedmaster fans. I won't recap everything that's already been written about this model here and elsewhere, but I will share an update on my ownership experience over the past six years.
The appearance of the Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary model occurred shortly after the release of the Speedmaster Apollo IX with the new Calibre 3861. These two models - Speedmaster Calibre 321 and Silver Snoopy Award - are not limited editions, but their production is restricted. To this day, both models continue to be produced. Omega manufactures the Silver Snoopy Award on its standard production lines in Switzerland, while the Calibre 321 is assembled by hand in a dedicated workshop. Each piece is assembled twice by the same watchmaker. In one of my articles, I explained in detail what makes this model unique compared to other Speedmaster Professionals.
One of the Most Worn Speedmaster Models
Over six years of ownership, I've noticed that the only Speedmaster I wear more frequently than the Calibre 321 is my 18-carat gold Apollo XI 2019 in Moonshine Gold. Initially, I planned to wear it only on special occasions, but emotions took over, and it became my all-time favorite watch. Life is too short not to wear such a watch.
Other Speedmaster models I regularly wear include the classic Moonwatch with Hesalite crystal and Calibre 3861. To answer one of the readers' questions (Saltyfish717), I can say that the Speedmaster Calibre 321 spends more time on my wrist than the modern Speedmaster Professional with Calibre 3861.
I admit, it's a bit strange since I prefer the asymmetrical 42mm case of the Speedmaster Professional compared to the 39.6mm case with straight lugs of the Calibre 321. I also like the crown guard protrusions on the Speedmaster Professional case, and the lyre-lug shape is more appealing than the straight ones. In our recent podcast, I mentioned that my favorite model is the classic Speedmaster with lyre lugs. If I had to draw the perfect Speedmaster, it would be the classic Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with Hesalite crystal and Calibre 321 inside.
I would slightly alter the dial printing on the current 42mm Moonwatch to make it closer to the Calibre 321 design. The dial of the 321 showcases far more detail due to the type of finish. The Speedmaster Calibre 321 dial is galvanic, whereas the modern Moonwatch is lacquered. Therefore, I would prefer a galvanic treatment similar to what is applied to the modern 321.
Flat-Link Bracelet
When it comes to the Speedmaster with Calibre 321, the bracelet is often discussed. I like the flat-link bracelet, inspired by the classic references 1039 and 7077. The downside is the lack of micro-adjustments in the clasp. While I don't feel the need for this due to the climate I live in, I understand that for residents of regions with sharp temperature fluctuations, this can be an important feature.
Omega has done an excellent job on this bracelet, and although some consider it identical to the bracelet on the Speedmaster FOiS, it is not. The link surfaces on the 321 bracelet are flatter, and the finish is of higher quality. The "Nixon" bracelet is also very comfortable and well-designed, but if given a choice, I would prefer the flat-link bracelet, despite its lack of micro-adjustments.
Issues with Calibre 321
The main feature of this watch is the 321 movement. In 2019, Omega finally managed to bring it back into production. It is a beautiful and complex movement, and I have long dreamed of seeing it in modern Speedmasters. In the 2000s, I asked Omega representatives if there was a chance to bring this calibre back into the collection. At that time, the answer was that it was unlikely, as the rights to the movement belonged to Breguet. However, now we know how it all turned out.
I'm glad that Omega and Breguet were able to reach an agreement, as this movement deserves a place in some of the most iconic chronographs. It does not have a Master Chronometer certification or even a standard COSC certification. Although accuracy was not my main criterion when choosing, I encountered problems with the influence of magnetic fields on accuracy - twice. The watch was lagging by 25 seconds per day, which is too much even for an uncertified chronograph. After taking it in for service, magnetism was quickly identified, and the watch was demagnetized. This is a simple procedure, and both times the repair was carried out under warranty.
Best Modern Speedmaster
For me, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 is the best modern steel Omega Speedmaster. Despite some practical shortcomings, such as insufficient water resistance and the lack of a Master Chronometer certification, these watches significantly differ from modern Speedmaster Professionals. They stand out with more expressive details on the dial and hands, a beautifully crafted column-wheel chronograph, and excellent case and bracelet finishing.
The watch feels more "premium," and I think this is exactly what Omega aimed for. This is also reflected in the price - €17,100 (including VAT), which is twice the cost of the classic 42mm Speedmaster Professional. If you do not see or feel the difference between these models, I would recommend choosing the Professional. However, if you appreciate fine details and high-quality finishing, the Calibre 321 is worth considering. Another option is to look for a vintage Omega Speedmaster 105.003 in excellent condition. The new model pays homage to both the 105.003 and Omega's past and present watchmaking art.
Would I Buy This Watch Again Today?
When I purchased the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in 2020, the retail price was 13,000 Swiss francs / €13,300 (including VAT). Six years later, the price has risen to €17,100 (including VAT), which is a significant increase. Would I buy this watch again?
If my budget allowed me to spend such an amount on a watch, then yes, without a doubt. Besides the Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday models, created in collaboration with Omega, I consider the Calibre 321 and the gold Moonshine Apollo 11 the pinnacles of my Speedmaster collection. My colleague Dave recently purchased a pre-owned Speedmaster Calibre 321. This is another suitable option, especially for those with a limited budget. Personally, I am glad that I can look back on six years of enjoyment from owning my 321.
Here's to the next six years of happy ownership!