Cartier Privé Opus 10th Edition Review

If you ask any serious Cartier collector what is the pinnacle of the brand's collection, the word "Privé" will almost certainly be mentioned.

Starting with CPCP, this line continued with Cartier Privé, and the 10th edition of the "Opus" series introduces six new models. Three of them are made of platinum: Tortue Monopoussoir - an iconic model for any Privé collection; Tank Normale - an unexpected omission in CPCP, now rectified; and the brand new Crash Skeleton, perhaps the most special of all. The golden trio, called La Collection, includes the Cloche, Cintrée, and Normale once again with classic blue hands, yellow gold cases, and opaline dials.

Cartier Privé Les Opus Crash

Let's start with the most notable novelty, which is sure to attract maximum attention. The history of the Cartier Crash is well-documented, and regardless of which version you choose, the influence of this model on the brand's recent rapid growth is undeniable. The original shape, developed by Jean-Jacques Cartier and Rupert Emerson, has evolved over the years, and 10 years after the debut, the Crash Skeleton has also been updated.

As in the first generation, its airy mechanism is shaped along the contour of the case, and the protruding bridges resemble fingers forming iconic Roman numerals. However, now the integration of the mechanism and the case has become even more harmonious - the plane has become thinner, and the design has acquired a more organic character. A significant part of the work is done by hand, as confirmed by the finish of the new caliber 1967 MC with hand engraving.

The asymmetrical convex sapphire glass has become more pronounced, and the ruby crown has shifted into a recess on the right side of the case, which looks natural given the contours of the case. Don't be fooled by the warm golden hue of the case in press photos - the red cabochon unequivocally indicates a platinum case for the new Crash Skeleton model.

Cartier Privé Les Opus Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir

In 2024, Cartier revived one of the most famous models from the first Privé collection - the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir. The Les Opus Privé model reproduces that very dial with the characteristic enlarged "XII" at the 12 o'clock position, replacing the full set of Roman numerals on the 2024 model, now complemented by outlined triangles in the corners.

The case and mechanism remain the same. The 34.8 mm diameter case is made of platinum and equipped with caliber 1928 MC, developed in collaboration with Le Cercle des Horlogers and installed on the base Cartier module. The single-button chronograph allows maintaining an impeccable side profile of the case - control is carried out only through the enlarged crown, activating the lateral clutch and column wheel mechanism.

Cartier Privé Les Opus Tank Normale

Almost on par with the Crash in my preferences is the Les Opus Tank Normale model. We saw the platinum case and bracelet Normale back in 2023, but now the model has received an important touch - a burgundy print on the dial, which will surely give you a reason to be proud at meetings with like-minded people. The manually wound caliber 070 is produced at the Le Temps Manufacture, and its thin construction allows the case to have a height of only 6.85 mm, completing the Privé Les Opus lineup.

Cartier Privé La Collection Tank Normale

While I was writing the previous paragraph about the platinum Tank Normale, I decided that I prefer the yellow gold version. This model opens the Cartier Privé La Collection line and is part of the trio that strictly follows the brand's classic canons, practically indistinguishable from vintage examples. It is even thinner than the platinum version - only 5.7 mm, while the case dimensions have increased by 1 mm in width and 5 mm in the distance between the lugs, now measuring 28.65 mm by 37 mm. I am impressed by the horizontal brushing of the dial and the pomme hands, complemented by the interesting reflections of the complex sapphire glass.

Cartier Privé La Collection Cloche de Cartier

If Privé is often considered the pinnacle of Cartier collecting, what should those familiar with this series do? Previously, there was an NSO (New Special Order) program, allowing the best clients to order unique models based on Cartier's iconic shapes. Most often, the object of such orders was the Cloche de Cartier model, which is not surprising.

The design, dating back to the 1920s, has barely changed, and it's nice to see that Cartier has preserved the curly font and open numbers 6 and 9, as on the originals of those years. Pomme hands are again used, and although the brand does not disclose the mechanism used, one can confidently assume caliber 1917 MC - the same ultra-thin manual wind as in the next, final novelty.

Cartier Privé La Collection Tank Cintrée

Today, the Tank Cintrée may seem like just an elongated version of the regular Tank. However, in the 1920s, it symbolized a watch specifically created to encourage more men to wear wristwatches - the concave back of the case ensured comfort. Over time, the model became the choice of connoisseurs and gained cult status, including thanks to icons like Steve McQueen. The new Cintrée Privé returns to its roots, emphasizing the merits of its shape. The model is equipped with caliber 1917 MC with manual winding, ensuring the overall case thickness does not exceed 7 mm, and the 46 mm lug-to-lug length fits snugly on the wrist.

Prices and Availability of Cartier Privé Les Opus and La Collection

Cartier has not yet announced the prices for the Privé Les Opus and La Collection models. The release of Privé Les Opus Crash is limited to 150 pieces.

This collection demonstrates Cartier's mastery of combining historical forms with modern technologies, maintaining Privé's status as the pinnacle of the brand's collection. The new models of the Opus and La Collection series continue traditions, offering both innovative mechanisms and classic design, ensuring high appeal for connoisseurs of high watch fashion.