Starting from the late 1950s to the 1960s, the spread of diving watches and, ultimately, underwater diving led to many new design variations and interpretations. However, in the second half of the 20th century, some iterations of early diving watch models became much more widespread. This led to the formation of an almost prototypical, 'templated' idea of how they should look. Of course, there are exceptions; nowadays, these exceptions are most often produced by microbrands. It seems that these companies, likely driven by a desire to stand out, are willing to break away from trends to create something unique in the market. For brothers Fernando and Juan Pablo Mancilla from Arizona, the emergence of their new brand Diving Armour and its flagship model 'Narval' was the next logical step in their watchmaking legacy.
Whether or not you have heard of the founders of Diving Armour, there is a high probability that you have read or seen one of their past creations. Responsible for creating Pontvs and Fonderia Navale, this duo pushed boundaries by experimenting with case materials such as bronze and brass. Despite using alternative metals, they consistently honor the aesthetics of the 'golden age' of aquatic watches. In line with this tradition, the 'Narval' model draws inspiration from the titanium tool watches - Triton Spirotechnique.
France is a country with a rich and vibrant history connected to diving and marine sciences. The fearless explorer Jacques Cousteau and Émile Gagnan created the 'Aqua-Lung,' the first autonomous underwater breathing apparatus, which effectively opened up the ocean's wonders to the masses. Of course, Cousteau continued his legacy in popular culture (from 'The Silent World' to 'The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou'), marine conservation, and numerous business ventures connected to water sports.
Among the numerous products sold by Cousteau's companies were diving watches. These watches were specifically designed for deep diving, made possible by his patented apparatus. Selling products through his first company, La Spirotechnique, Cousteau commissioned Triton to manufacture watches designed specifically for serious diving enthusiasts. This collaboration led to the creation of an atypical and functional design that remains unique to this day.
The Narval model from Diving Armour recalls the smart elements incorporated by Jean René Parmentier in the original Triton Spirotechnique model. While this model clearly feels like a tribute, the vintage aesthetics are softened by the use of modern materials and manufacturing. The Narval watch will be released as part of a Kickstarter campaign and will be available in four different color variants. The ergonomic 316L stainless steel case has a diameter of just 40mm and a sleek silhouette with an overall height of 12.5mm.
Particular attention was paid to the design of the lugs. Although from a distance it seems that the bracelet is integrated, in reality, it allows for the use of virtually any 22mm strap. The bracelet included in the package has a significant taper from the lug to the clasp, further enhancing wearing comfort and creating an overall 1960s style and wrist feel.
The most notable feature of the Narval model is the almost unique placement of the crown at 12 o'clock. Its position at the top of the case provides protection for this vital component thanks to the armor-like end piece in which it is enclosed; moreover, the crown's positioning on both sides of the case reduces the risk of it digging into the forearm during use. The angular shape of the Narval is adorned with a ceramic or steel bezel, depending on the dial color.
The availability of black, gray, blue, and meteorite colors ensures that everyone can find a color to their liking. While the black and blue colors remain in the 'classic diver watch' palette, the matte gray dial paired with a stainless steel bezel looks quite utilitarian.
For those who look up to the stars as often as they dive under the ocean waves, the meteorite dial represents a pleasant blend of sea and sky. The crystalline texture creates an additional level of dimension that exceeds what is typically inherent in ordinary dial materials.
Each model is equipped with a Japanese automatic Miyota 9015 movement, which has proven its reliability and efficiency over the years. This mechanism is protected by a massive screw-down case back with a relief engraving of the Carmagnolle diving suit, considered the first fully articulated diving armor.
Under the single-domed sapphire crystal lies a generous coating of Swiss C3 Super LumiNova on the broad hands, indices, and inside the ceramic bezel. At the six o'clock position, right above the luminescent grid, is the date window. This unobtrusive placement allows the owner to keep track of the day without compromising readability, both in and out of the water.
Starting July 1, the black, blue, and gray Narval divers will be available on Kickstarter at an early bird price of $399 USD, making them a great value proposition. The meteorite dial version costs a bit more - $499 USD. Each model will include a bracelet and an additional nylon strap. So, if you're interested in the aesthetic of 1960s French divers or you just need a rugged watch for an active lifestyle, the Narval is as tough as nails and ready for action.
