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Doxa SUB 200 II Review and Features

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Doxa

Key Takeaways

  • The Doxa SUB 200 II features an enlarged 44 mm case with a thinner profile.
  • Available in five dial variants, including a distinctive Redcoral model.
  • Equipped with the reliable Sellita SW200 automatic movement.

In 2019, the Doxa SUB 200 model was introduced, and since then, the growing interest in vintage-style divers has been rapidly increasing.

Many brands have released their interpretations of such watches: some are based on authentic historical models, while others draw inspiration from more modern trends. Doxa confidently belongs to the first category, regularly revisiting its archives to revive iconic designs adapted for today's audience. This formula has proven highly successful, cementing the brand's status as a leader in the classic diver watch segment. Several years after the debut of the SUB 200, Doxa refined the concept by introducing a new model - the SUB 200 II.

Main Changes and Case Design

Improving the SUB 200 was no easy task. The formula of simple three-hand divers is quite straightforward, and practically everything in the SUB 200 met the requirements. Nevertheless, Doxa managed to make subtle changes in the SUB 200 II, making the watch larger, more expressive, and modern without losing its signature heritage style. Now you can feel the spirit of Jacques-Yves Cousteau, but the SUB 200 II will stand out much more.

Doxa SUB 200 II enlarged case design

The most significant change is the enlarged 44 mm 316L stainless steel case. For the modern vintage diver market, such a size seems impressive, especially considering that for most enthusiasts, 40 mm is already considered large. However, the overall case thickness has been reduced by a whole millimeter - a minor change, but significant in the watch industry. Thus, despite the increased diameter, the thinner profile and slightly smaller rotating bezel create a harmonious balance.

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Doxa SUB 200 II stainless steel case and bezel

Functionality and Finishing Details

Doxa retained the characteristic features of the model: the domed sapphire glass in a "glassbox" style, screw-down case back, and crown provide water resistance up to 200 meters. The bezel, colored to match the dial, has a knurled edge that is tactically convenient and easy to turn even with gloves. The finish of the case combines polished and brushed surfaces, emphasizing the utilitarian nature of the watch with luxurious and thoughtful execution. This is especially noticeable on the lyre-style curved lugs, which fortunately retained a width of 20 mm for easy strap changes.

Doxa SUB 200 II sapphire glass and finishing details

Dial Variants and Design Features

The enlarged case and slightly reduced bezel allowed for an expanded dial area. The SUB 200 II is presented in five design options:

  • Standard black, gray, green, and blue dials with a sunburst effect, familiar from previous SUB 200 models.
  • All standard versions are for the first time executed in a fumé style, with darkening at the edges of the dial.

Upon Closer Inspection, Other Nuances Are Noticeable:

  • The hands and indices use a slightly creamy Super-LumiNova luminous material.
  • A thin frame around the date window.
  • The "automatic" inscription on the dial.
  • The print is in beige, harmonizing with the vintage luminous markers.

Doxa SUB 200 II dial variants and design features

The "Redcoral" model stands out separately. Its dial is executed in a saturated red color with a sunburst effect, with bright white print and luminescent coating, while the bezel is black with white markings.

Features of the Redcoral Model

Redcoral differs not only in the color of the dial and bezel but also in the fully black DLC coating of the case, bezel, crown, and bracelet. This coating emphasizes the brightness of the red dial and gives the watch a more modern and functional look, departing from the traditional vintage style. The contrast of the Redcoral dial improves readability, making this model the most modern-looking in the lineup.

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Doxa SUB 200 II Redcoral model with DLC coating

Movement and Technical Specifications

In previous SUB 200 models, the exact origin of the movement remained unclear, although it was assumed to be ETA 2824-2. For the SUB 200 II, Doxa officially announced the use of the Sellita SW200 caliber. This is a positive aspect since the technical characteristics remain practically unchanged:

  • Automatic movement with three hands.
  • Date window at the "3 o'clock" position.
  • Power reserve - 38 hours.
  • The dimensions of the movement are the same as the previous version.

Doxa SUB 200 II movement and technical specifications

Interestingly, while maintaining the same dimensions of the movement, the overall thickness of the watch was reduced by 1 mm. The choice of SW200 ensures reliability and high accuracy in its price segment.

Straps and Bracelets

For the SUB 200 II, Doxa introduced a new bracelet and textured rubber strap with a distinct retro style. The bracelet is made of stainless steel in a Milanese mesh style - it is comfortable, fits the wrist well, and offers a wide range of adjustments. The Redcoral model with DLC coating comes with a bracelet covered in the same material.

The rubber straps are colored to match the dial and styled after classic 1960s diver watches worn by underwater explorers. They provide a professional level of comfort and secure fit.

Prices and Availability of Doxa SUB 200 II

The Doxa SUB 200 II model is already available for purchase at the following prices:

Modification Price (CHF) Price (€) Price (US$)
With bracelet 1,450 1,650 1,750
With rubber strap 1,390 1,590 1,690
Parameter Specification
Brand Doxa
Model SUB 200 II
Case Size 44 mm (diameter) x 12.8 mm (thickness)
Case Material 316L Stainless Steel
Water Resistance 200 meters
Glass Sapphire, domed (glassbox)
Dials Fumé with sunburst effect: black, gray, blue, green, red
Lug Width 20 mm
Bracelet Milanese mesh stainless steel / textured rubber strap
Movement Sellita SW200, automatic
Power Reserve 38 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Availability Available
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Thus, the Doxa SUB 200 II is a logical evolution of a classic with modern accents, retaining the signature style and enhancing functionality. The model suits both collectors of vintage divers and those seeking reliable and stylish watches with history.

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