This is indeed a serious piece. Two years ago, we had the opportunity to get acquainted with the Fleming Series 1 Launch Edition Tantalum.
In this alloy, which is about twice as heavy as steel, the watch made an indelible impression. They were "heavy" in both the literal and figurative sense - thanks to the elegant case shape, complex dial detailing, and outstanding mechanism. The Series 1 was released in three limited versions - seven pieces each in platinum and rose gold, and 25 pieces in tantalum. Today, the updated Mark II versions in rose gold and tantalum debut. At Onewatch, we had the opportunity to thoroughly examine the rose gold Fleming Series 1 Mark II Redwood. The model's name refers to the giant sequoia trees in California - the home of Thomas Fleming, a passionate watch collector and founder of the brand.
History and Team of Thomas Fleming
Thomas Fleming lives the American dream, although his dream is realized in Switzerland. To create the perfect watch, he assembled a true dream team. In partnership with renowned specialists such as independent watchmaker Jean-François Mojon and his team from Chronode, as well as dial-making masters Comblémine, owned by Kari Voutilainen, Fleming was able to realize the Series 1 project, released in 2024. Two years later, two evolutionary versions appeared. The tantalum and rose gold watches received a number of changes and updates, indicating that Thomas Fleming continues to perfect his dream. We had the opportunity to get acquainted with the Fleming Series 1 Mark II Redwood model, distinguished by a deepened dial and refined mechanism.
Hands-on Experience with Fleming Series 1 Mark II Redwood - A Project of High Horological Complexity
Thomas Fleming strives for harmony, and that is precisely why he seeks it. The search for the perfect balance between the case, dial, and mechanism led to the creation of Series 1 Mark II. The goal was to enhance the play of shadows on the dial, making it more lively when exposed to light. Fleming also reimagined the polished ring around the dial, reflecting the raised central part of the case, and the movement received updates. The new Mark II is based on the foundations of Series 1 but with a comprehensive rethinking. Almost every element was refined. The case geometry became more precise, the dial architecture - more voluminous, and the mechanism was completely reimagined.
Options for Series 1 Mark II and the Influence of California
Series 1 Mark II is available in two options - with a blue-green Pacific dial in tantalum and with a brown-gold Redwood dial in rose gold, which we received at the Onewatch office. Both versions have a Californian theme. The influence of the Golden State here is more atmospheric rather than literal - a rare occurrence in the watch world, where inspiration is often taken literally.
Warm Tone of Redwood
The Series 1 Mark II Redwood model features an 18-carat rose gold 5N case - this is the first novelty. The shade of this alloy is darker than the 4N used in Series 1 Launch Edition, representing a subtle evolution. The new dial design immediately catches the eye - it is executed in warm golden-brown tones, inspired by ancient coastal redwood forests.
The layered, hand-finished surface of the details invites close examination, although we noticed a few very minor defects on the watch that "posed" for Max's camera. Looking at the dial, as when checking the time, it impresses with its balance. This is a modern interpretation of a classic sector dial with a strong yet refined visual effect.
Case - An Example of Refinement
Like the original Series 1 from two years ago, the case retains the classic proportions of a dress watch. The case diameter is 38.5 mm, the overall thickness is 9 mm (8 mm without glass), and the long thin lugs ensure a length of 46.5 mm - these are almost ideal proportions. The watch does not seem too small or too large. They occupy the golden mean, at least on my 18 cm (7 inches) wrist and in my perception. A case that is too thin makes the watch inconspicuous, and one that is too thick deprives it of the dress watch status. Here, such problems do not exist. Moreover, the case is very sculptural, emphasizing its presence on the wrist.
The distinctive three-part construction of the middle case features brushed upper and lower surfaces framing a polished band that smoothly continues into the skeletonized lugs. This creates a continuous profile with interesting details that attract and hold attention. In Mark II, the transitions have become clearer, the surfaces more expressive. The geometry of the lugs has been slightly adjusted for better fit on the wrist. As a result, the case, manufactured by Efteor from Bascourt in the Swiss Jura, looks sharper, crisper, and overall better than the Series 1 Launch Edition.
What Comes After FM.01? Correct - FM.02!
The updates affected not only the appearance but also the internal structure. The FM.02 caliber is a logical continuation of the manual FM.01 movement, developed in close collaboration with renowned watchmaker Jean-François Mojon. This time, Mojon participated in the evolution of the caliber. The new FM.02 has a 4 mm profile and provides an impressive power reserve of 168 hours (seven days) thanks to double barrels connected in series.
The FM.02 caliber is not just a mechanism. Like the case and dial, it is an integral part of the design. The bridges of the mechanism have been redesigned with wider bevels and sculptural shapes. New are the individual wheels and custom ratchet wheel, echoing the curved silhouette of the skeletonized lugs. Each wheel contains 28 distinctly defined inner angles, all processed by hand. In total, the mechanism includes 189 internal angles, including on completely hidden parts. And yes, although these elements are invisible, they are finished with the same care as the visible ones. All of this was made possible by the finishing partner - Manufactor, who brought Fleming's philosophy to life.
Final Impressions of Fleming Series 1 Mark II Redwood
Fleming Series 1 Mark II Redwood is an impressive watch with a thoughtful and sophisticated design. The finish of the case, dial, and mechanism is of a very high standard. Particularly notable is the curved, rounded, and polished balance bridge - a true work of art. A small defect on the dial likely slipped through, but it is fixable. Otherwise, the multifaceted dial with various finishes and warm tones has true charisma. Its warm, luxurious glow is both classic and modern. Finally, the polished leaf-shaped hands are perfectly matched in length, harmoniously tying the dial composition together.
The price of the Fleming Series 1 Mark II Redwood is 53,500 Swiss francs excluding taxes. The Pacific in tantalum, which we did not have the chance to try on at Onewatch HQ, features a blue-green sector dial with a black polished ring, applied hour markers, and a combination of brushing, graining, and black polishing. This version costs 55,500 Swiss francs before taxes. Answering the question in the article's subheading, one can say: yes, the Mark II impresses more than the first series. These are indeed serious watches.
For more information on the Series 1 Mark II Redwood and Pacific, we recommend visiting the official Fleming website.
