The history of Fortis watches spans over 100 years. The company produces professional watches for everyone - from military pilots to Russian cosmonauts. However, despite such a long history in the watch and aviation industry, Fortis still seems out of reach (sorry for the terrible pun) compared to brands like Sinn and IWC.
However, the Fortis Flieger collection deserves serious attention if you value the functionality and clarity of pilot watches but want something more stylish and individual. Here we will introduce you to four new watches from the Fortis Flieger collection - two classic three-handers, a bicompax chronograph, and a triple GMT. While they all share a unified style, each model offers a unique wearing experience.
While German brands like Sinn lean towards strictness and ultra-functionality, Fortis takes a more modern and stylish approach in its interpretation of the classic Flieger. In particular, the use of orange and mint-green accents gives the watches a unique aesthetic that remains very clear and functional, yet a bit more playful than their northern counterparts.
The Fortis Flieger line includes three different models: the F-43 Triple GMT, the F-43 Bicompax, and the Automatic, which is available in two sizes - 39 mm and 41 mm. These three models can immediately be recognized as siblings: Each has a 12-hour bezel, super-clear Brixtrack indices from Fortis, a stainless steel case, a black dial, and orange color. What sets them apart is functionality. Without further ado, let's get acquainted with each model.
First on our list are the two automatic models. One of the latest trends we observe in brands is offering watches of different sizes to appeal to a wide range of wrist sizes. This does not mean that men's and women's versions are offered - it seems the industry is moving away from this direction - but rather different sizes that will fit different wrists regardless of gender.
Although the size difference here is, of course, not that significant - only 2 mm - it makes a substantial difference in terms of wrist placement and comfort depending on your wrist size.
Both watch models have a water resistance of 200 m. Sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating and stainless steel with a directional rotating bezel with 24 clicks for tracking the second time zone. The watches are equipped with Swiss-made automatic UW-30 movements (base Sellita SW 200-1) with a date function, a frequency of 28,800 vph, and a 38-hour power reserve. Surprisingly, the lug width for both watches is 21 mm (which may slightly disappoint those with large collections of 20 and 22 mm straps). Regardless of which size you choose, the price is 2,300 CHF on a bracelet or 1,850 CHF on a leather strap. The three-link bracelet has a masculine and robust look that certainly matches the watch's appearance. The clasp with a push-button mechanism and on-the-go adjustment, I would say, is just what is needed.
Next in the lineup is the F-43 Bicompax, a two-register chronograph with a date function, measuring, as you guessed, 43 mm in diameter. The chronograph shares the same design features as the automatic watches, including the case profile, rotating bezel, and dial aesthetics.
The wearing experience is similar to the 43 mm automatic watches, but the chronograph movement UW-51 (modified Sellita sw510) means you are dealing with some additional height and heft. These are not miniature watches, nor are they intended to be. These are highly functional watches providing chronograph operation and a second time zone in a durable case.
As with other watches in this line, the water resistance is 200 m, despite the absence of screw-down pushers. The black, green, and orange color scheme is again present in this model, but in my opinion, it works even better thanks to the additional orange ring around the 30-minute register. This orange ring echoes the date window at the 6 o'clock position, giving the dial accents a unified look. The cost of the F-43 Bicompax model is 3,600 Swiss francs on a bracelet and 3,150 francs on a leather strap.
Completing the lineup is the F-43 Triple GMT model, triple because you get the main time with hours, minutes, and seconds, a secondary time zone with a 24-hour GMT in the center of the dial, and a rotating 12-hour bezel providing a third time zone. Of course, three time zones are excessive for most people, but for those who travel frequently or communicate with friends and colleagues in different time zones, access to multiple time zones can be very useful.
While I really like the aesthetics of the Automatic and Bicompax models (especially the 39 mm size of the F 39 automatic model), it is the F-43 Triple GMT model that truly stands out in this collection. While the chronograph and automatic share a unified design aesthetic, the GMT changes a few additional ingredients in the recipe.
Firstly, Fortis chose white hands and indices, abandoning the green tones typical of other models.
Secondly, instead of a date window at the 6 o'clock position, Fortis moved the date window to the 3 o'clock position.
Thirdly, the GMT dial has a vertical texture rather than the flat matte black of the other models. Nevertheless, it is clearly a member of the same family, likely appealing to those who find the additional green and orange color simply excessive. Finally, the triple GMT is housed in a titanium case, unlike the stainless steel case of the other two models.
However, perhaps it is the movement that makes the GMT truly outstanding. The automatic GMT WERK 13 movement is made by Kenissi, which produces in-house movements for Tudor (along with Norqain and Chanel). The WERK 13 movement provides a 70-hour power reserve, COSC certification, jumping hours, and retrograde date setting. In other words, it is as modern a movement as you can hope for. Of course, there is a price to pay for this, as the GMT is priced at 4,300 Swiss francs.
Iterating a pilot's watch is no easy task. On the one hand, you can simply repeat the look of WWII Fliegers, which has been done many times, or you can attempt to modernize the design and bring your own twist to it. However, it is important to maintain the stylistic elements that have made pilot watches extremely popular. In the Fortis Flieger collection, the right balance has been found.
There are enough visual cues that clearly define these watches as pilot watches, inspired by decades of the brand's work in this field, yet the green and orange accents, typography, and stylistic elements like inverted triangular indices at the 12 o'clock position set this collection apart from all others on the market. If you are looking for a modern interpretation of pilot watches from a brand with a strong aviation heritage, the Fortis Flieger collection is definitely worth a look. More detailed information about the Flieger line and other Fortis watches can be found on the brand's website.