I know Canadian architect Frank Gehry from his work on the beautiful and impressive Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles.
However, thanks to Louis Vuitton, I learned that he is also responsible for the Louis Vuitton Foundation building in Paris (2014) and the Louis Vuitton Maison Seoul (2019). The latter inspired the creation of the remarkable Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Sapphire watch.
Frank Gehry and Louis Vuitton
From the first negotiations between Louis Vuitton and architect Frank Gehry to the completion of the watch production, two years passed. The Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Sapphire Frank Gehry watch offers an unobstructed view of the mechanism inside. This mechanism boasts a flying tourbillon, assembled at La Fabrique du Temps in Geneva and certified with the prestigious Geneva Seal.
200 kg Sapphire Block
To create these exceptional watches, Gehry took the 2022 Tambour Moon Saphir model as a basis and recreated the rippling glass structure of the Louis Vuitton house roof in Seoul. Sapphire was chosen by him to craft this Tambour Flying Tourbillon. The case, dial, crown, lugs, and hands of this Louis Vuitton Tambour masterpiece are cut from a 200-kilogram sapphire block.
It takes 250 hours just to make the dial, using carving techniques, with the sapphire thickness being no more than a sheet of paper. The artisans at La Fabrique du Temps carved the sapphire by hand, an incredibly delicate task.
Handcrafted
To achieve the matte surface of the dial, the artisans used diamond powder and a diamond-tipped drill. This task requires nerves of steel and great patience, as the heat and vibrations of the drill can (and will) easily destroy the thin sapphire material. It is also interesting to know that all these works are done manually and by hand.
Due to the thinness of the sapphire sheets, the material could not rely on any mounting. The impressive result showcases the beautiful patterns that Gehry also applied to the Louis Vuitton house in Seoul. And, importantly for a watch collector, the focus is on the tourbillon mechanism.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon with Geneva Sapphire
The sapphire case has a diameter of 43.8 mm and a thickness of 11.27 mm. As mentioned above, Gehry and Louis Vuitton also chose a sapphire dial, crown, and hands, handcrafted. All dial components feature polished and matte surfaces, and the contours of the sapphire hands are coated with luminescent pigments (using HyCeram Luminex) for good readability in low-light conditions.
A white leather strap is attached to the sapphire case. It is equipped with a rose gold folding clasp to match the rose gold elements of the mechanism. The leather is taurillon leather, a high-class, grainy soft leather by Louis Vuitton.
Caliber LFT MM05.01
Inside these Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Sapphire Frank Gehry watches lies the caliber LFT MM05.01. The mechanism is perfectly visible through the case and dial, with no hidden secrets.
The mechanism is crafted to the highest standards, as confirmed by the Poinçon de Genève seal. Even the smallest details have bevels and satin finishes.
The mechanism is executed in two colors - rose gold for the main plate and rhodium plating for the gears and components of the flying tourbillon. The rose gold plate is adorned with a concentric satin finish.
Caliber LFT MM05.01 has a power reserve of 80 hours and ticks at a frequency of 21,600 per hour (3 Hz). It also consists of 160 components, including 17 jewels, and the Monogram flower-shaped tourbillon cage rotates once per minute. On the case back of the watch, Frank Gehry's signature is proudly displayed in the center of the sapphire crystal.
Only Five Pieces
Louis Vuitton will release only five pieces of these Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Sapphire Frank Gehry watches for a few lucky ones. Priced at $935,000, the buyer will own a rare and unique item associated with the 95-year-old architect Frank Gehry.
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Sapphire Frank Gehry watch looks simply impressive on the wrist. When I put the watch on my wrist to take a few shots, I wondered how many of the five pieces will be seen on their owners' wrists.
Will they be the queens of security or trophies displayed in beautiful homes? Or will they end up on the wrists of five lucky individuals eager to show them off to other watch (or Louis Vuitton) enthusiasts?