Watches with travel and GMT mechanisms are classics that should be in most brands' collections.
Whether it's classic watches with multiple time zones and a central 24-hour hand, models with dual time and additional indicators on the dial, or complex world time watches, the Geneva Watch Week and Watches and Wonders 2024 exhibition gave us the opportunity to explore a huge number of new models in these categories. Here are the 5 most attractive travel and GMT watches we saw.
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
Let's start with the absolute winner... It's not often that we are so enthusiastic, but the new Black Bay 58 GMT is a fantastic watch, a new model that simply meets the demands of the watch community: a more compact, thinner BB GMT. Here we are with a 39mm case, 12.8mm thick, still capable of diving, with an almost "Coke-like" bezel (sorry, Rolex fans...) and a mix of modern and vintage features.
The gold accents on the bezel and dial have been a topic of conversation, but I believe they pair well with the 58 model. Otherwise... a typical Tudor, with a real GMT mechanism, now certified as a Master Chronometer, a third time zone function thanks to the rotating bezel, some small differences from the classic Black Bay 58 (such as the crown) and an overall impressive quality-to-price ratio.
Tudor offers a choice between a riveted steel bracelet and a rubber strap, both with micro-adjustment (the latter is good but not as visually appealing as the steel bracelet).
Quick Facts: 39mm x 12.8mm steel case - bidirectional bezel with black and burgundy anodized aluminum inserts and gold markers - sapphire crystal, screw-down crown and case back, water resistance 200m - matte black dial with gold hour markers and hands - caliber MT5450-U (Kenissi) with GMT function, 4 Hz, silicon spring, 65-hour power reserve, Master Chronometer - riveted steel bracelet or black rubber strap, both with Tudor T-fit clasp with micro-adjustment - 4,420 euros on rubber, 4,630 euros on steel
Rolex GMT Master II 126710GRNR “Bruce Wayne”
The watch community expected the GMT Master II “Coke” in white gold... Rolex delivers “Bruce Wayne” in steel. Although technically nothing has changed, the new version adds something missing to the collection; thinner, more restrained, almost monochromatic watches - in a way a direct descendant of the old version with a black bezel (116710LN), with the same green hand and GMT mention.
The main difference is the use of a two-tone bezel (a must for all GMT Master II), in a gray-black variant, presented last year in Rolesor and yellow gold editions. Positioned alongside Batman (black-blue), Pepsi (blue-red), and Destro or Sprite (black-green), the new 126710GRNR a.k.a Bruce Wayne is the most restrained, timeless version.
And it's really very pleasing! Moreover, the GMT Master II remains one of the best travel watches on the market.
Quick Facts: 40mm x 11.9mm Oystersteel case - bidirectional bezel with 24-hour Cerachrom monoblock gray and black insert - sapphire crystal, screw-down crown and case back, water resistance 100m - black lacquered dial with white gold hands and markers, green lacquered 24-hour hand - Caliber 3285, true GMT, in-house, automatic, Superlative Chronometer, 4 Hz, 70-hour power reserve - Oystersteel Jubilee or Oyster bracelet with Easylink comfort extension - 126710GRNR - 11,000 euros on Oyster bracelet, 11,200 euros on Jubilee bracelet
Santos de Cartier Dual Time
The Santos model, recognized for its sporty-chic style and effortless elegance expected from Cartier, has received a traveler's function for the first time, but not in the classic GMT hand form. Instead, while retaining the original watch design almost untouched, Cartier chose a dual-time solution, adding a 24-hour subdial to its sports watch.
This feature, independently adjustable with the crown, looks elegant and practical enough. Otherwise, it’s typical Santos, with a somewhat large case (though, in a medium-sized edition, this feature will be fitting) and a softly gray dial.
The movement is outsourced - Cartier does not disclose its origin, but it is likely Sellita.
Quick Facts: 40.2mm x 47.5mm x 10mm steel case - sapphire crystal, solid case back, water resistance 100m - sunburst anthracite dial, dual-time indicator with “day/night” function at 6 o'clock - automatic outsourced movement with dual-time function via crown, 4 Hz, 40-hour power reserve - steel bracelet with QuickSwitch interchangeability system and additional alligator leather strap - 8,800 Swiss francs
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G Denim Blue
While many Patek fans mourned the discontinuation of the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A stainless steel model earlier this year (Patek is removing steel references one by one...), the brand compensates with a white gold release in a beautiful denim blue color scheme (which is a theme of the year at PP).
Beyond this new precious attire, the watch remains very casual in this gentle gray-blue tone and still wears like a charm thanks to its relatively compact size. Like all 5164 models, it features a practical dual-time function with two side buttons that allow the local hour hand to be moved forward and backward in one-hour increments. Surprisingly, the water resistance is now 30m, but that's our topic for exploration...
Moreover, the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G is truly a fine watch!
Quick Facts: 40.8mm x 10.2mm white gold case - sapphire crystal front and back, screw-down crown and case back, water resistance 30m - dual-time function with side buttons (local hour hand moves forward and backward by hour) - denim blue dial with embossed Aquanaut pattern, white gold numerals and hands, “day-night” function - automatic caliber 26-330 S C FUS, in-house, Patek seal, 4 Hz, 35-45 hour power reserve - denim blue composite strap with white gold folding clasp - 62,600 euros
Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1
Finally, one of the most impressive travel watch models and a highlight of the Geneva Watch Week 2024 - Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1... A watch that addresses one of the main issues faced by people who adhere to traditional world timekeeping: Daylight Saving Time (DST) transition.
The solution lies in an incredibly complex central module where each of the 24 rollers has four positions, switched by pressing the crown: UTC, AST (American Summer Time), EAS (European and American Summer Time), and EWT (European Winter Time).
This fascinating world timer option is powered by a 10-day hand-wound movement consisting of 744 components, a flying tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar with rollers.
Quick Facts: 46.3mm x 17.85mm case in titanium, platinum, or rose gold - sapphire crystals front and back, water resistance 30m - skeletonized dial with blue aventurine - world time function on 24 rollers with full DST function, perpetual calendar on rollers - caliber R28-70-00X, in-house, hand-wound, 744 components, minute tourbillon 2.5 Hz - alligator leather strap with folding clasp - from 650,000 Swiss francs