In late February 2021, Seiko Corporation held its annual presentation of new models, naturally in a digital format, showcasing watches from both the Seiko and Grand Seiko collections. From elegant watches from the Seasons collection to an elite platinum model, this event offered many new insights, including the watches that are likely the main event of the year for GS - White Birch. This year, the entire Seiko corporation, founded in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori, celebrates its 140th anniversary. This means several anniversary models were introduced, including the watches we will examine today. Bold, powerful, luxurious, and mechanically complex, they stand out among the recently released models. Let's take a closer look at these Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Limited Edition SBGC240 watches.
When you think of Grand Seiko, you might often think of impressive and complex textured dials or everyday watches with a sharp gaze - or both combined into one piece. You often hear names like Snowflake, White Birch, or Skyflake (as with Seiko, most successful GS watches have their own nickname…). But Grand Seiko is also excellent at creating sports watches with bold design and durability. For example, the brand has diving watches like the SLGA001, with high capabilities and great execution, which, by the way, uses the all-new Spring Drive Calibre 9RA5. Additionally, Grand Seiko has a complex Spring Drive chronograph mechanism equipped with many complications, and watches that use this caliber.
The SBGC240 is a watch based on existing models, both visually and mechanically, but significantly altered to give it enough exclusivity for a limited series dedicated to the brand's 140th anniversary. Thus, the watch has some common elements with the SBGC203 model - a classic Grand Seiko chronograph, but at the same time has its own distinctive elements, along with an unchanged dose of boldness and luxury.
The case of the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC240, at least in its foundation, is close to the aforementioned model, measuring 43.80 mm and undeniably GS in shape. This means powerful lugs, angular shapes around the perimeter, and sharp delineation lines between matte surfaces and Zaratsu polished accents (without distortion), located, for example, on the sides of the lugs and on their inner side, with a slight bevel that enlivens the junction with the bracelet. The watch is large, there is no doubt about it. They sit confidently on the wrist, but problems may arise not so much from the diameter or length of the case as from its height - the thickness is 16.1 mm. Keep in mind, the SBGC240 is a watch that cannot go unnoticed, and it must be tested first.
This limited series has some unique features. First, it is made in a combination of stainless steel and 18-carat yellow gold, from which the bezel, crown, and buttons are made. Combined with the black dial, this gives the watch contrast and visual boldness. Secondly, Grand Seiko chose a dodecagon shape for the bezel, meaning a 12-sided profile matching the hour markers. On top, there is also a new black polished ceramic insert with an engraved tachymetric scale - classic for chronograph watches - for measuring average speed.
In other respects, the brand also updated the buttons, which still have large sizes but with a simpler design. The SBGC240 model is also a sports watch with a screw-down crown and case back, ensuring water resistance to 100 meters. On the wrist, combined with a metal bracelet, the watch has a certain weight - 190 grams, to be precise - but remains comfortable (at least it was with our model with a 19 cm wrist). The watch is worn on a three-link steel bracelet with a folding clasp, the latter adorned with an 18-carat gold medallion. The watch comes with an additional crocodile leather strap with gold stitching, also equipped with a folding clasp.
Moving on to the dial, it should be noted that there is a lot of interesting stuff on the display of these SBGC240s. Like most GS Spring Drive chronographs, it is not only rich in functions but also has a relatively unusual layout. Let's start with the obvious: the central hands show hours and minutes. Another gold-colored hand shows the running seconds on an unframed sub-dial at the “9 o'clock” position. Finally, at the “3 o'clock” position, there is a date window, classically framed with a metal element. The chronograph indication is performed by silver-colored hands and is located on the right side of the dial. In addition to the central second hand, elapsed time readings are displayed on two sub-counters framed with gold: one with a 30-minute scale, the other with a 12-hour scale. Finally, the power reserve indicator is located at the “7 o'clock” position and balanced by the GS logo at the “11 o'clock” position.
But wait, there's more… The Grand Seiko SBGC240 is not only a chronograph but also features a GMT function with a central 24-hour hand. In Grand Seiko watches, the crown adjusts the local time hand (the main gold-colored hour hand) independently in one-hour increments, making these watches suitable for travelers. Finally, the watch is equipped with a dual inner flange, the black part of which is used for precise reading of 1/5 of a second, and the golden-colored area is associated with the tachymetric scale.
In terms of design, the dial of the SBGC240 is typical of GS products: a black glossy base, gold-colored hands, and applied indices, all beveled and beautifully executed with polished chamfers and matte or striped flat surfaces. Overall, it is impossible to deny the complexity of this display, but the impressive number of indications and their unusual arrangement are also part of the charm of this watch. And as always, the execution is above reproach.
If the exterior of the SBGC240 is an amazing combination of luxury and sportiness, what lies inside is no less surprising. Indeed, a quick glance through the sapphire case back reveals a mechanism that seemingly should be entirely mechanical. Besides the classic automatic rotor, this chronograph has a high-level integrated architecture, with a column wheel and vertical clutch. But… It is also not entirely mechanical, belonging to the brand's series of “hybrid” Spring Drive models. This means the watch does not rely on a classic balance wheel, hairspring, and escapement module but is regulated by a quartz regulator. However, as in mechanical watches, energy is stored in the mainspring, driven by the rotor, and transmitted to the regulating organ via a gear train. In short, Grand Seiko aims to get the best of both worlds: the charm of mechanical watches and the precision of quartz.
Calibre 9R86 is quite a complex engine, consisting of no less than 400 parts. As already explained, it is rich in functions, and despite modern regulation, its architecture is quite traditional. It also has a comfortable power reserve of 72 hours, and thanks to Spring Drive technology, the movement of the second hand is extremely smooth - meaning it can measure elapsed time not with split-second accuracy, but precisely, thanks to the sweeping motion of the hand stopping at the exact moment the button is pressed. Finally, the main advantage of this hybrid technology is the timekeeping accuracy, which is ±1 second per day or ±15 seconds per month (which far exceeds chronometric standards).
Availability and Price
The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC240 is released in a limited edition of 500 pieces. It will be available in Grand Seiko boutiques and selected Grand Seiko retailers worldwide in July 2021. As for the price, given the complexity of the movement, the limitation, the inclusion of an additional strap, and yellow gold elements, it is expected to be relatively expensive - 19,200 euros (including taxes) or 18,600 USD (excluding taxes).
Technical Specifications
Case: Diameter 43.8 mm x Height 16.1 mm - Stainless steel case, matte with Zaratsu polished accents - 12-sided fixed bezel in 18-carat yellow gold with black polished ceramic insert - Pushers and crown in 18-carat yellow gold - Dual-curved sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating - Sapphire case back - Screw-down crown - Water resistance 100 m.
Dial: Black glossy dial, gold-colored applied indices and hands, silver-colored chronograph hands
Movement: Calibre 9R86, in-house - Spring Drive hybrid technology, automatic with manual winding, quartz regulator - 50 jewels - Integrated chronograph with column wheel and vertical clutch - 72-hour power reserve - Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, GMT function, chronograph up to 12 hours, power reserve indicator - Timekeeping accuracy ±1 second per day (±15 seconds per month)
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet, 3-link, matte and polished. Triple-fold clasp with push-button and GS initials in 18-carat gold on the clasp. Includes additional crocodile leather strap with gold stitching and in-house folding clasp
Model: SBGC240
Availability: Limited edition of 500 pieces. Available in July 2021 in Grand Seiko boutiques and some retailers.
Price: 19,200 euros (incl. taxes), USD 18,600 (excluding taxes)
