Hamilton, known for its military history and Hollywood collaborations, introduced two new models in the Khaki Aviation series in January 2024.
The new Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot watches are available in several versions - 36mm and 42mm. The smaller 36mm versions are part of Hamilton's expansion into unisex sizes. This move pays homage to past styles while also appealing to women (and others with smaller wrists). I received the rose gold PVD-coated case with a midnight blue dial for review - a versatile model that is sure to fit wrists of various sizes.
The dial gives the watch versatility in styling: If not viewed under direct light, it can appear black, which pairs well with various outfits. The dial is styled in the B-type flieger format: minutes are located on the outer track in multiples of five, with hour markers on the inner track. At 3, 6, and 9 o'clock are hand indices with Super-LumiNova coating, and at 12 o'clock is a luminescent triangle marker. Admittedly, the small dial holds a lot of information. However, due to the absence of a date window and overall balance, it doesn't feel cramped. In the Type B layout, minutes take center stage, reducing the cluttered feel that can occur when hours are on the outer side.
The shape of the sapphire crystal, along with the anti-reflective coating, enhances the readability of the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Auto. The flatness of the crystal eliminates any distortion when viewed at an angle. Hamilton fans know their watches are often prone to glare, but Hamilton has truly put in the effort with this watch. I never found the dial difficult to read at any time of day. The hands feature alternating skeletonized designs, beautifully aligning once an hour. They are also generously coated with green Super-LumiNova.
As the owner of the Hamilton Murph 38mm model, I can confirm that the luminescent coating on these Khaki Aviation Pilot watches lasts longer, maintaining readability throughout the night. The marker and hands are truly white, unlike the "faux patina" on some other Hamilton models, which likely explains the difference in lume longevity.
One of the stylistic features of these watches is how the skeletonized part of the hour hand perfectly frames each hour numeral. As many owners know, sometimes it's the little things that bring a lot of joy when wearing a watch, and I found myself looking at the dial at the top of each hour to see the time, artfully framed by the gold hour hand. While this feature is executed as well, if not better, than the 42mm counterparts, the proportion of the hands relative to the rest of the dial was actually one of the things I liked the least. The dial seems too small to accommodate the broad sword hands, and the overall look can appear disproportionate on some wrists. If the minute hand were narrower, it might mitigate this, but the hour hand would still need to frame the hour marker as Hamilton intended.
This did not deter me from the watch, but I began to notice this phenomenon as I got acquainted with different 36mm watches, especially (I would dare say, entirely) when these watches have larger identical siblings. Sometimes it feels like the smaller version is "playing dress-up" to resemble the larger one. I think this Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Auto model will not fall victim to such an experience - and some might not even notice it - but I can see it becoming a sticking point for the particularly discerning (or owners of the 42mm variants).
The case height is 11.15mm, which is quite standard for field watches of this size. Hamilton states that the water resistance is 10 bar, or 100 meters. While this is common for many Hamilton watches, and not an advantage for most people, I still feel this figure is worth mentioning. Although each brand defines "true" water resistance and its implications differently, 100 meters seems to be the golden number for many users who like to test the durability of their watches. Even if you don't plan to swim with the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Auto (and if you do, please remove it from the beautiful leather strap!), it might simply give someone peace of mind.
With a lug width of 18mm, these watches pair well with various straps, and the supplied strap tapers slightly to 16mm at the buckle. This model is only available for purchase on a calf leather strap, as well as with a white dial. However, black and blue dials are available on a stainless steel bracelet. Those purchasing the rose gold version should remember that this case color may be difficult to match when buying aftermarket straps.
The rose gold and midnight blue dial model comes on a pink calf leather strap, and this addition sets the Khaki Aviation apart from its predecessors. From my anecdotal experience, Hamilton has a reputation for making straps that are not very comfortable for some of its watches. Most require a long break-in period or simply a strap change to a more suitable option. I was skeptical when retrieving this watch, knowing that I had previously been burned by Hamilton straps. However, I was pleasantly surprised to find that this calf leather strap was not only comfortable right away but also fit perfectly for smaller wrists.
My wrist size is about 5.75 inches, and I wore these watches on the second-tightest setting, with just over an inch left on the strap. While these watches will suit people with wrists from 5.50 to 6.75 inches, they may be too tight for those with larger wrists over 7 inches. It seems this issue won't arise with models that come on bracelets, as the brand's website offers these watches on bracelets up to 14 inches, but I can't say this directly.
The 36mm pieces are equipped with Hamilton's H-10 caliber, a three-hand movement found in many popular models in the Khaki line. It's a modified ETA caliber that can feature a date function or not. The larger 42mm Khaki Field Aviation Pilot Auto model is equipped with the H-30 caliber with a "day/date" complication at the "3 o'clock" position. The H-10 has an 80-hour power reserve, which is a distinctive feature of the caliber, and all Pilot series movements have streamlined surfaces (unlike the American Classic series, which have snailing and pearling patterns). Like most Khaki Aviation line options, these watches have an open case back, showcasing the Nivachron™ balance spring and engraved Hamilton rotor.
Overall, these Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Auto watches are an excellent addition to the series. They are compact enough to look fantastic on various wrists while remaining extremely legible. It's no secret that I'm a big fan of Hamilton - both its history and its typical aesthetics - although I usually pass on many models due to their long lugs and large cases. When Hamilton released this model in a 36mm case, it felt like the brand's response to the same public feedback that led to the Murph 38mm model. It's another example of Hamilton keeping its finger on the pulse of its consumer base, and I think other brands should take note of this as they seek to advance into younger and more diverse markets where representation is key to success.
While I usually find my love for watches slowly ignites, even in reviews, these Hamiltons made me realize that first impressions can be telling, and sometimes intuition should be trusted. Never before have I felt such an instant connection with a watch and wanted to add the review watch to my personal collection so quickly. While initially, I thought my love for this model was partly due to the rose gold PVD coating, I also had the 36mm model with a black dial on my wrist and felt the same level of connection with it. Regardless of the dial or case color, these are simply beautiful watches that speak to the adventurer in me, in a size that allows me to feel (finally!) part of the team.
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Auto (36mm) is available in several versions: with black and blue dials on a stainless steel bracelet and with rose gold PVD coating on a leather strap (as pictured) priced at USD 1045, and the white dial variant on a leather strap is priced at USD 995. For more information, visit the Hamilton website.