Sometimes, a watch lands on my desk that stands out distinctly from standard models.
It didn't take long to realize that the RGM Model 222-RR is exactly one of those. These watches are inspired by the great American railroad stories of the early 20th century, which immediately makes the 222-RR model intriguing. Considering that RGM is rightly regarded as one of the key American brands, I enjoyed wearing this model for several days, and it took me back to simpler times. As it turned out, that's exactly what I needed.
History of American Railroad Watches and Their Significance
Honestly, I usually don't pay much attention to railroad watches. Despite their rich history, the style of such models rarely matches my preferences. Nevertheless, I greatly appreciate the stories that often accompany these classic watches. The RGM Model 222-RR possesses just such a fascinating story. It features a Ferguson-style enamel dial and a classic pocket watch caliber. The angled placement of the dial adds visual charm. The watch tells an exciting story of the American railroads of the early 1920s, and I always value good historical narratives.
Breakdown in Lancaster, Pennsylvania
If you regularly read WatchTested, you might be familiar with the brand RGM Watch Co. The company, founded by Roland G. Murphy, is based in Lancaster, Pennsylvania - a traditional center of American watchmaking. When I think of this region, I recall a six-week journey along the East Coast of the USA in 2011. It was a trip of a lifetime, marred by a minor incident in Gordonville, near Lancaster: our Chevrolet Traverse broke down in the Motel 6 parking lot, and we had to change cars to continue our journey.
Near the motel, a billboard reminded of Lancaster's special place in watchmaking history. Although the breakdown wasn't the most pleasant memory, the recollection of the billboard and the realization of where I was always brings a smile. Back then, I couldn't imagine that five years later, I would start a career dedicated to writing about watches, including models from brands in this region, such as RGM Watch Co.
History of the RGM 222-RR Model
Roland G. Murphy founded RGM in 1992. Over three decades, the independent brand has earned a reputation for producing exceptional watches with vintage calibers, crafted with great attention to detail and tied to historical narratives. Since Murphy often uses pocket watch movements, RGM models are usually quite large. Although the Model 222-RR appears rather hefty, by modern standards, it is not excessively large. At the same time, it perfectly embodies the classic railroad style.
Let's consider the historical context and technical specifications in more detail. The 222-RR model features a classic round stainless steel case with a diameter of 41 mm, a thickness of 12 mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 52 mm, and water resistance of 50 meters. The large length is due to the traditionally long lugs that hold a 22 mm wide strap, which pairs well with the case and dial, providing visual balance. Despite the impressive dimensions, the watch fitted perfectly on my 18.5 cm (7.3-inch) wrist. Moreover, in modern realities, traditional railroad watches can be even larger, so they did not look out of place on the slimmer wrists of other members of the WatchTested team.
Ferguson-Style Enamel Dial
Inside the fully polished case is a Ferguson-style dial - one of the most famous aftermarket dials, patented by Louis Buck Ferguson in 1908. After receiving the patent, Ferguson began selling such dials to railroad companies. Three years later, convinced of the idea's success, he founded the Ferguson Dial Company in Monroe, Louisiana.
The first dials for Ferguson were produced by the renowned O’Hara Dial Company in Waltham, Massachusetts - one of the key cities in American watchmaking history. Before finalizing the design, Ferguson experimented with different options. The final design, known as the Ferguson-style dial, is characterized by large numbers marking every five minutes and an inner ring with smaller hour numbers.
Due to the unusual placement of the numbers, each dial required a set of special hands: the hour hand was noticeably shorter, while the minute hand was of standard length. For better readability, the hour hand was painted red, matching the red hour numbers.
Dial Details and Pocket Watch Caliber
For the 222-RR model, RGM created a white Grand Feu enamel dial inspired by the classic Ferguson style. The dial is equipped with a minute track around the perimeter with large black minute numbers inside. The minute hand is made of blued steel and looks majestic. The hour numbers are placed inside a thin black ring, adding elegance. A small seconds indicator is located at the "6 o'clock" position.
Particularly noteworthy is the 45-degree tilt of the dial. The rotated dial and the crown positioned at "1:30" - details that hark back to early 20th-century watches. This design is also known from classic driver's watches, such as the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921, especially in the platinum version. The rotation of the dial makes it easier to read the time on the left hand. In the RGM 222-RR model, this is a successful design solution, emphasizing the historical connection to American watchmaking artistry.
Vintage Hamilton Pocket Watch Caliber
The stainless steel case houses a Hamilton size 10 caliber - a pocket watch movement first used by RGM in wristwatches. The vintage movements are completely overhauled and restored, including replacing the old mainspring with a modern one specifically made for this caliber. All steel parts are hand-polished on a tin block, making them look better than in their original condition. One watchmaker assembles and regulates the movement, ensuring its smooth operation.
For the 222-RR model, calibers 921 and 923 are used. The former was produced in large quantities and has 21 jewels, while the version with 23 jewels is rare, with only about 4,000 examples. Both hand-wound movements operate at a frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour and provide a power reserve of 45 hours. The watch I tested is equipped with the 923 caliber, featuring beautiful blued screws and a circular damascene pattern (the American equivalent of "Geneva stripes"). This decoration makes the vintage movement particularly attractive, which is a pleasure to observe through the sapphire case back.
Wearing the RGM 222-RR Model
Exploring the history of railroad watches, getting acquainted with the backstory of the 222-RR model, and subsequently wearing the watch on the wrist creates a unique experience. Knowledge of history brings the watch to life, making the experience significantly deeper than simply evaluating a product. In terms of comfort, the 41-mm case fit my hand like a glove. Its size and impressive lug-to-lug distance were perfect for the 18.5 cm wrist. The quality leather strap with contrasting stitching also played a crucial role, providing secure fastening and comfort. The steel classic buckle with a neat RGM logo completes the look.
Amazingly, I quickly got used to reading time on the tilted dial. It felt natural, especially when both hands were busy on the laptop keyboard. Wearing the watch provided an opportunity to appreciate the beauty of the enamel dial, which looks crisp and modern, telling the story of early 20th-century railroad watches. This not only enhanced my love for watches but also inspired me to study the history of American railroads and their role in the exploration and economic development of the West.
Final Impressions of RGM Model 222-RR
Particular pleasure was derived from observing the vintage movement through the case back. The large sapphire window allowed a view of every detail of the restored caliber - a crucial part of the model's appeal. Overall, I greatly enjoyed wearing this beautiful RGM 222-RR model. It was a delightful break from the usual reviews on WatchTested and a true breath of fresh air. Moreover, the watch inspired me to further explore classic American railroad models.
Most importantly, the RGM 222-RR is a high-quality product that demonstrates the power of storytelling and traditional watchmaking craftsmanship. From studying the individual components to feeling the winding of the large onion crown and subsequent wearing - it's a complete experience. It gave my time with the watch special significance, and I can only praise RGM for this. As mentioned, the 222-RR model is available with two calibers on the official RGM website. The version with the 921 caliber costs $8,950, while the rarer one with the 923 caliber is $10,950 (if available). In return, you get a magnificent watch with deep historical roots - exactly what I value in watches.