In 2026, the H08 model marked its fifth anniversary, and Hermès introduced the most ambitious version of this line since its launch.
The new H08 Squelette was first showcased at Watches & Wonders 2026. It marks two anniversaries: five years since the launch of the H08 and 20 years since Hermès acquired a stake in movement manufacturer Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. This partnership has always set the H08 apart from sports watches from fashion houses. The new skeletonized version highlights this better than all previous models. On the wrist, the watch made an exceptionally pleasant impression.
Design and Case
The H08 Squelette retains the recognizable silhouette that has defined the series since 2021. The case is cushion-shaped, measuring 39 mm in diameter and 42 mm from lug to lug - a shape that sits between a square and a circle. The case material is grade 5 titanium with a black DLC coating and a matte finish. The square bezel is made of ceramic with a sunray satin finish and mirror-polished edges.
This combination looks restrained and elegant, and the DLC coating gives the case a stealth effect, which is especially fitting for skeletonized dials. The case thickness is 11.69 mm - slightly more than the standard H08 version due to the new movement, but this is hardly noticeable on the wrist. With a length of 42 mm from lug to lug, the watch feels more compact than the 39 mm diameter suggests. Water resistance is 100 meters.
Dial and Legibility
This model lacks a traditional dial. There is only a thin outer ring with applied grey Arabic numerals in the signature H08 style, made entirely of luminescent material. In the center is a square minute track, echoing the geometry of the case and bezel. There is also a Bleu Zanzibar version with blue accents on the numerals, hands, and minute scale.
Personally, my optimal choice is the grey version, where the numerals, printing, and lume are done in shades of grey and white, creating a harmonious image against the background of the dark titanium bridges of the movement. The monochrome design is perfectly suited for a skeletonized dial. Legibility is traditionally a concern for skeletons, but the outlined numerals and clear minute track make it impeccable.
Movement H1978 S: The Heart of the Watch
The main feature of this model is the H1978 S caliber, which deserves special attention. The name refers to the year La Montre Hermès was founded. This entirely new skeletonized movement was initially created for an open architecture, rather than being retrofitted later. Its design is based on an asymmetrical X-shaped bridge structure made of titanium with a black DLC coating, emphasizing the geometric theme of the case.
Manufacturing movement bridges from titanium is a complex task due to the difficulties of precise material processing. Fully titanium calibers are rare. From the front, you can see the double barrels at the top, the gear train, and the balance secured on a visible ruby. On the reverse side, there is a skeletonized rotor echoing the H08 case outlines, which can be observed in motion from the front when winding the watch. The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz, has a power reserve of 60 hours, and consists of 26 jewels and 168 components.
Strap and Wearing Comfort
The watch comes with a textured rubber strap and a folding titanium clasp with a DLC coating and a push-button mechanism. The grey version is available with straps in sand, green, and dark blue colors. The lightweight titanium case is quickly forgotten on the wrist. For skeletonized watches in this price category, the selection of straps seems well thought out.
When reducing the weight of watches, I always prefer rubber straps, making this combination particularly successful and emphasizing the sporty orientation of the model.
Final Evaluation
The H08 Squelette is the most intriguing version in the Hermès H08 lineup. Skeletonized watches either work or they don't. In my opinion, this model works. The titanium architecture of the movement and the coordinated geometric design from the case to the rotor, as well as the comfortable size of 42 mm from lug to lug, create a harmonious and attractive product.
The price of $21,600 is significantly higher than the standard version, but it is mainly justified by the complexity and rarity of the titanium caliber. For me, the grey version is the best choice. Despite the high cost, I have respect for those who will acquire this watch. I have been a fan of the H08 since their debut and continue to follow the development of the series.
Key Features Hermes Skeleton Dial H08 Squelette Titanium
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Case Diameter | 39 mm |
| Lug to Lug Length | 42 mm |
| Case Thickness | 11.69 mm |
| Case Material | Grade 5 Titanium with DLC coating |
| Water Resistance | 100 meters |
| Movement | H1978 S, automatic skeletonized, 4 Hz |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Number of Jewels | 26 |
| Number of Components | 168 |
| Strap | Textured rubber, colors: sand, green, dark blue |
| Clasp | Titanium folding with DLC coating and push-button mechanism |
This model is an example of a successful combination of innovations in watch mechanics and modern design, making it a significant event in the industry.
