At Onewatch, we truly appreciate the Holthinrichs brand. Watching this Dutch brand confidently evolve in watchmaking with such unique designs is a real pleasure.
Furthermore, the brand is based in the charming city of Delft. Thanks to its proximity to the impressive new Holthinrichs headquarters, we had the opportunity to be among the first to acquaint ourselves with the new releases - Lab Series 1.S and Lab Series 1.GMT, the first special editions dedicated to the brand's 10th anniversary. I had the chance to form first impressions of these two models with striking domed dials featuring copper oxide patina.
History of the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S and 1.GMT
The Lab Series has been part of Holthinrichs' lineup for several years. In 2024, we detailed the Signature Lab Series and unveiled its concept. The limited editions of this series feature a case similar to the lightweight Signature Ornament, but are made not by CNC machining but by 3D printing.
Moreover, the elegantly curved case lugs are skeletonized, giving the watch a completely different character. The case is paired with domed dials made from solid metal, processed according to the Horlogerie Brut concept. This concept focuses on creating textures, finishes, and colors that directly result from manufacturing processes and the natural properties of materials. The result is an experimental series of watches that immediately catches the eye.
For the new Lab Series models, Holthinrichs relies on two key elements of the brand's history. The first is the small seconds layout, used in the first watches created by Michiel Holthinrichs 10 years ago, which returns in the 1.S model. The second is the Horlogerie Brut concept, first applied in the Raw Ornament Bronze of 2021 and implemented in both novelties. Thanks to this, the new watches tell their own unique story.
Construction and Materials of the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S and 1.GMT
Let's look at the details. Both models feature a Grade 5 titanium case made by 3D printing. The case measures 38.5 mm in width, 46 mm in length, and 9.85 mm in thickness (7.8 mm without the domed sapphire crystal). Overall, the case is elegant, with smooth lines, and the level of finishing and detail is impressive.
Last year, I wore the Lab Series 1.24 model for a photo session. When the new models landed on my desk, I immediately remembered why I value this case so much. Overall, the design with art deco references looks graceful and elegant. But upon closer inspection, thanks to the rough textures and natural colors, a striking contrast emerges, making these watches unique.
For this duo, the in-house created dials are truly special. Both dials are made from a domed copper blank with patina. The base is a solid domed piece of copper. The base dials feature a 'sunray' pattern and layers processed with milling and laser engraving.
Then, copper patina is applied to the surface using a unique in-house Holthinrichs manufacturing process refined on the Raw Ornament Bronze. After processing, the dials acquire a unique color and texture. The new models are dominated by an azure blue tone with mossy green accents.
Features of the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S Model
Since the models differ, the details are also unique. The Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S stands out with a 'sunray' pattern emanating from the small seconds counter. The subdial is predominantly in dark green tones, highlighting the pattern. The brand logo is located at the '12 o'clock' position and is executed in a light golden hue. Particularly noteworthy are the titanium hour markers that seemingly float above the dial. Faceted, finely finished hands complete the look.
The back of the watch showcases a patinated, hand-cut, and thermally treated rotor of the Sellita SW360-1 movement. Additionally, the tungsten rotor undergoes grinding and thermal treatment, acquiring fine blue and purple hues. This allows the caliber to harmoniously match the visual side of the dial. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, contains 31 jewels, and provides a 56-hour power reserve. Completing the look is a cognac-colored goat leather strap with a signature titanium buckle.
Impressive Design of the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.GMT
The second model - Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.GMT - has an even more striking dial. The base is the same domed copper blank. In addition to the 'sunray' pattern, the dial features a map, emphasizing the watch's purpose as a travel model. The map is depicted in an azimuthal projection of the Earth as seen from the North Pole. Holthinrichs chose this design because it naturally refers to the radial division of time zones originating from the Earth's axis of rotation. On the dial, the axis is projected in the position of the hands.
The dark brown tones of the map are created manually using a micro brush that carefully removes excess patina. The dial also features a 24-hour ring scale with dot markers and Breguet-style numerals. The brass markers and numerals have a brushed finish, creating a contrast with the main dial color and perfectly matching its texture. As in the 1.S model, floating titanium hour markers are used here. For this special travel model, the hands and markers are filled with Super-LumiNova luminous compound. Accompanying the thin second hand with a domed tip is a brass GMT hand.
Sellita SW330-2 Movement in Lab Series 1.GMT
On the back of the 1.GMT model is a custom-designed rotor. Inside the watch operates the automatic Sellita SW330-2 movement with 25 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, and a 56-hour power reserve. This caliber is of the GMT type with a 'caller', so unfortunately it does not support independent adjustment of the 12-hour hand.
However, the visual impression of the custom rotor compensates for this drawback. The rotor fits harmoniously into the overall concept and design of the watch. While on testing the watch was on a cognac-colored goat leather strap, like the 1.S model, the standard model comes with a burgundy strap and titanium pin buckle.
Wearing the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S and 1.GMT: Impressions
On the wrist, both models display visual perfection. The combination of an elegant but expressive case with stunning dials creates a unique impression.
At first glance, you feel like you are wearing something truly special. The craftsmanship and attention to detail invested in creating these watches are apparent. Personally, I particularly liked the Lab Series 1.S model. Its simplicity allows the materials and textures to fully shine, which I greatly appreciate. Although I am a big fan of GMT, this time my favorite was the small seconds variant.
Nevertheless, in terms of detailing and overall impression, the GMT model is in no way inferior. Knowing that the map was created with a tiny brush and an incredibly precise hand generates even more respect for what Holthinrichs has achieved with these two limited editions.
Conclusion and Cost of Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S and 1.GMT
I am confident that all 100 units of each model will soon find their owners. In the modern watch industry, such watches are too good and unique to ignore.
The price of the Lab Series 1.S is €5,900 per unit, and the Lab Series 1.GMT is €6,500, both prices excluding taxes. For this money, the buyer receives truly expressive and distinctive watches that launch the series of anniversary releases by the brand in this special year. This is an impressive start, and I look forward to new Holthinrichs models in 2026.
