In 2024, the possible third or even fourth "relaunch" of the intriguing Swiss watch brand HYT will occur.
The new star collection of "hydromechanical horoscopes" is the HYT T1 model, debuting in four variations, which I have photographed for you here. The T1 is a thematic reimagining of the original HYT H1 concept, using the brand's latest main mechanism and adopting a contemporary look. In this article, I will compare and contrast the HYT brand and the watches released in 2012 when the H1 (and company) debuted, and the T1 in 2024.
In 2012, HYT entered the market with Vincent Perriard at the helm. His talent for emotional marketing and energy helped draw attention (and sales) to an entirely new concept with an ambitious plan to produce watches and new mechanical movements with a liquid indicator through a sister company (Preciflex). At the time of the H1's release, the mechanisms were mostly untested in real-world conditions, and it took the company several years to perfect the liquid "capillaries" and overall mechanism efficiency.
Nonetheless, in 2012, these watches were hailed as a major achievement in watchmaking art. The H1 was a very large wristwatch - 49 mm wide and just under 18 mm thick. This was quite in line with the tastes and trends of the time. The H1 has a semi-skeletonized dial and is oriented towards futuristic colors like bright neon green. The price of the HYT H1 in 2012 was around $45,000.
Vincent Perriard left HYT only to occasionally return to managing the brand. In 2024, when the company came under a new financial owner, Vincent Perriard returned, but in a less public role, as someone officially manages the company.
HYT remains an independent high-end watch company, likely aiming to produce about the same number of watches as in 2012. HYT has had years to refine its core mechanical mechanisms and improve their performance and reliability.
The T1 model is equipped with a similar but much more advanced mechanism, known as caliber 501-CM. The case is still futuristic but with a different taste and reduced size (45.3 mm wide). The case thickness is just over 17 mm, and this time the watch dial is "closed" without the ability to see the mechanics inside. To do so, simply flip the case over and inspect the mesmerizing hand-wound mechanism and liquid indicators of the bellows system through the back sapphire glass. Interestingly, the initial prices in 2024 will be about the same as in 2012: the price of the T1 in a titanium case is 48,000 Swiss Francs.
The HYT T1 case has a geometric shape, emphasizing "looking cool" while being as compact as possible around the relatively large mechanism and indication system. As I mentioned earlier, the case width of the T1 is 45.3 mm, the thickness is 17.2 mm, and the lug-to-lug distance is 46.3 mm.
The case is also water-resistant to 50 meters. Above the dial is a box-style sapphire crystal, which helps further reduce visual mass and enhances dial legibility when viewed at an angle. Thanks to the reduced case size and carefully designed strap, the HYT T1 sits comfortably on the wrist and does not restrict movement, as one might expect from a 45 mm wide watch. The lightweight titanium case material also helps. Finally, despite the straps having proprietary connectors, they are easily detached using a quick-release system.
The HYT T1 features a more modern hand-wound 501-CM mechanism. Unlike the original H1 model, the minute hand is now in the center of the dial (rather than eccentrically located at the top), but the indicators are otherwise similar. This includes the peripheral moving liquid hour indicator, the traditional minute hand, and the power reserve indicator.
Although the mechanism could have a running seconds hand, HYT decided to forgo this detail for a clearer dial perception. In my opinion, it turned out well. The T1 model is certainly among the most legible HYT watches. HYT calls them more classic. Do you agree with this? Or is it just another form of futurism?
The 501-CM mechanism operates at a frequency of 4 Hz with a 72-hour power reserve and consists of 352 components. The bellows is manufactured for the company by a specialized supplier unrelated to the watch industry. This is a very cool and exotic mechanism, unlike anything you'll find with other companies. HYT offers several liquid colors to choose from (though not all color pigments actually work), including blue and black. Other color differences among the first four models include three dial shades for the three titanium models, as well as a version in 18-carat rose gold and titanium.
Among the dial colors are copper ("Salmon"), silver, gray, and dark blue. HYT has made it clear that new versions of the T1 model will appear in the future, although it is difficult to say whether they will remain in a conservative color solution or go in a wilder direction. I find it very interesting that HYT has gone from a neon-green brand in 2012 to a copper color in the 2024 watch collection.
On the wrist, the HYT T1 looks pleasant - the watches are still polarizing, but not as overtly as the H1. There is still an interesting quirkiness in the brand's concept and design, but compared to 2012, the 2024 iteration of HYT seems much more balanced and refined. I think it's also important to note once again that buyers have much more assurance that the mechanisms work better today, given years of refinement.
One of the challenges HYT will face in 2024 in a crowded competitive landscape is whether its watches are different enough now as they were when the brand's concept was introduced more than a decade ago. Has the brand's reputation and concept strengthened to the point where the first buyers of the T1 will be more experienced collectors, or will HYT once again capture the "youthful voice" and succeed with new wealthy collectors who find the T1 sufficiently "fresh"? Only time can answer these questions.
What do you think of HYT's "liquid time indication system" on a cleaner, closed dial (as opposed to semi-skeletonized)? The debut HYT T1 models include references H03205-A (titanium case with silver dial), H03206-A (titanium case with slate gray dial), and H03207-A (titanium case with copper "salmon" dial) priced at 48,000 Swiss Francs.
The HYT T1 model reference H03208-A in an 18-carat rose gold and titanium case has a retail price of 64,000 Swiss Francs. More detailed information is available on the HYT website.