As part of the 'Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021' exhibition held at the headquarters on Rue du Rhône from June 16 to 26, Patek Philippe invites visitors to admire its latest collection of unique watches, pocket watches, and timepieces adorned with rare handcrafts. From miniature enamel painting to micro-wood marquetry, from Grand Feu cloisonné enamel to hand engraving, Patek showcases the unparalleled artistic mastery of the House. In honor of this event, four minute repeaters from the current collection have been given a rare hand finish.
Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon Haut Artisanat
The second most complex wristwatch by Patek, the Sky Moon Tourbillon, has been updated and is now presented in a rose gold case with a brown Grand Feu enamel dial. Debuting in 2001 with the Ref. 5002 model, the 12 complications on the two dials of the Sun Moon Tourbillon were surpassed in 2014 by the Grandmaster Chime with its staggering 20 complications. From 2013 to 2016, the watch was available in a rare hand-finished version with a white gold case and a blue enamel dial (60002G-001), followed by a version with a black enamel dial (6002G-010), and the latest incarnation is also luxuriously decorated. The intricate rose gold case, winding crowns, repeater slide, and even the hour and minute hands and folding clasp are adorned with hand-engraved baroque volutes and arabesques.
Using the Grand Feu champlevé enamel technique and cloisonné enamel on the dial, Patek's artisans decorated the dial with a shimmering brown enamel background. The brown champlevé enamel is used for the moon phase aperture, rotating moon disc, and dial periphery. The floral motif in the dial center is created using Grand Feu cloisonné enamel. This particular enameling technique allows the flower's outline to be traced with fine gold wire, then the recesses are filled with enamel.
The two dials of the Sky Moon Tourbillon concentrate 12 complications, including a minute repeater with two cathedral gongs, activated by a slide on the left case side. Although the tourbillon is not visible, the front dial features a perpetual calendar with day, month, and leap year in apertures, a date indicator with a retrograde hand on the periphery, as well as central hours and minutes with a moon phase indicator at 6 o'clock. The reverse side displays astronomical functions: sidereal time, a celestial chart corresponding to the northern hemisphere, as well as the angular progression and phases of the moon.
As luxurious inside as it is outside, the hand-wound movement (R TO 27 QR SID LU CL) consists of 705 parts and is equipped with the proprietary Gryomax® balance. Providing a minimum 38-hour and maximum 48-hour power reserve, the movement and the finished watch are stamped with the Patek Philippe Seal.
With so many complications under one roof, you won't be surprised to learn that the watch diameter is 44 mm, with a case height of 17.35 mm. The new Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon model is delivered with matching cufflinks featuring hand-engraved rose motifs. The new model replaces the Ref. 6002G-010.
Quick facts: Ref. 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon – 44 mm x 17.35 mm – rose gold case with hand engraving – brown dial with hand-applied Grand Feu champlevé and cloisonné enamel – 12 complications on two dials – front: perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand, day, month, and leap year in apertures, moon phases at 6 o'clock – central hours and minutes – reverse: sidereal time, celestial chart, moon phases, and orbit – hand-wound caliber R TO 27 QR SID LU CL – 705 parts – Gyromax® balance – 21,600 vph – Breguet balance spring – power reserve 38-48 hours – hand-stitched alligator leather with a hand-engraved folding clasp – Patek Philippe Seal – price on request
Ref. 5304 Minute Repeater and Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
The first Patek Grand model with a semi-skeletonized dial and transparent sapphire glass discs was the platinum Ref. 5104 from 2006. Unusual in Patek's repertoire, the perpetual calendar indicators corresponding to the leap year, day, and month are displayed on transparent sapphire glass discs with white markers, glowing in a gold-framed aperture. To set the thin sapphire discs on tiny steel frames, an exclusive patented process had to be developed. The date is shown on a black peripheral track and indicated by a red retrograde hand in the shape of a crescent, while an accurate moon phase indicator is at 6 o'clock. Thanks to the beveled and polished steel components set against the gilded plate background, the movement's details are visible from the dial. The minute repeater on demand strikes the hours, quarters, and then the minutes elapsed since the last quarter-hour.
In 2021, Patek reimagines the minute repeater and retrograde perpetual calendar in a high-jewelry model with 80 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, lugs, and folding clasp. The height of the 43 mm rose gold case is 13.3 mm, with white gold leaf motifs engraved inside the case sides and on the minute repeater slide. The leaf motif is echoed on the skeletonized white gold hands with black lacquer coating and mini rotor.
The automatic caliber R 27 PS QR LU comprises 517 parts, features a 22-carat gold off-center micro-rotor, and offers a power reserve of 38-48 hours depending on the frequency of the minute repeater activation. The minute repeater and two gongs are well visible on the watch's back.
Quick facts: Ref. 5304/301R – 43 mm x 13.3 mm – 18-carat rose gold case with white gold inserts – 80 baguette-cut diamonds on bezel, lugs, and clasp – semi-skeletonized dial with 3 sapphire discs for perpetual calendar functions and flyback date indicator on the periphery – automatic caliber R 27 PS QR LU – 517 parts – 21,600 vph – Gyromax® balance, Spiromax® balance spring – off-center micro-rotor in 22-carat gold – power reserve 38-48 hours – hand-stitched alligator leather with hand-engraved folding clasp – Patek Philippe Seal – price on request
Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar
The original Ref. 5374 from 2016 was crafted in a platinum case with a black Grand Feu enamel dial. The combination of a minute repeater with cathedral gongs and a perpetual calendar is presented again this year in a white gold case with a blue Grand Feu enamel dial.
The 18-carat white gold case measuring 42 mm by 12.2 mm is smaller than the aforementioned models. Its elegant silhouette with a refined design features hand-satin-finished recesses on the case sides, and cabochons are set into the tips of the lugs. The slide on the case side activates the minute repeater, which strikes on two cathedral gongs. The glossy blue Grand Feu enamel dial with a glazed finish frames the subdials with perpetual calendar indicators. Moon phases are displayed in a champlevé aperture at 6 o'clock. Tiny holes are drilled into the enamel to accommodate applied white gold Breguet numerals. Leaf-shaped white gold hands are treated with luminescent material.
The sapphire case back, which can be replaced with a solid white gold one, reveals the automatic caliber R 27 Q with a 22-carat gold micro-rotor and cathedral gongs, providing a power reserve of 38-48 hours. It replaces the Ref. 5374P-001 model.
Quick facts: Ref. 5374G – 42 mm x 12.2 mm – 18-carat white gold – blue Grand Feu enamel dial with applied gold Breguet numerals – interchangeable case back – automatic caliber R27 Q – 467 parts – 21,600 vph – Gyromax® balance, Spiromax® balance spring – micro-rotor in 22-carat gold – power reserve 38-48 hours – shiny blue alligator leather with hand-engraved folding clasp – Patek Philippe Seal – price on request
Ref. 7040 / 250G Women's Minute Repeater
By 2021, Patek offers a new edition of the Ref. 7000R-001 model, produced from 2011 to 2017 in rose gold with a cream-colored dial. The model is placed in a slightly larger 36 mm white gold case, 10.14 mm high, and draws attention with a magnificent blue Grand Feu flinqué enamel dial highlighted by a diamond-set bezel.
The swirling pattern on the dial is inspired by Patek's pocket watch 'Siamese Fighting Fish' (Ref. 9992/137G-001) and is hand-guilloché before being covered with transparent blue enamel. Elegant spear-shaped hour and minute hands in white gold point to gold-applied hour markers; a small seconds subdial with applied round markers is located at 6 o'clock.
The officer-style case with straight lugs and screwed spring bars is adorned with the brilliance of 168 diamonds set in two stepped rows on the bezel. Using Patek's patented Flamme® technique, a craftsman cuts grooves in the gold between the stones to let light illuminate the diamonds from below. A slide on the case side activates the two classic gongs of the minute repeater.
Ladies' Minute Repeater is equipped with the ultra-thin automatic caliber R 27 PS with an off-center 22-carat gold micro-rotor and comes with interchangeable solid and sapphire case backs. Thin, at just 5.05 mm high, the movement relies on Patek's proprietary developments like the Gyromax® balance and Spiromax® balance spring and can maintain energy up to 48 hours.
Quick facts: Ref. 7040/250G – 36 mm x 10.14 mm – 18-carat white gold – 168 diamonds on the bezel – blue Grand Feu flinqué enamel dial – applied white gold hour markers, small seconds at 6 o'clock – automatic caliber R27PS – 324 parts – off-center micro-rotor in 22-carat gold – 21,600 vph – Gyromax® balance, Spiromax® balance spring – power reserve 43-48 hours – patinated blue alligator leather with a white gold clasp set with 26 diamonds – Patek Philippe Seal – price on request
