For over 85 years, since the release of its first aviation watch in 1936, IWC Schaffhausen has soared high with its pilot watches. Since then, IWC has refined the functional requirements of Flieger watches, drawing firsthand information from pilots, which is crucial when developing watches for military service. Today, the brand from Schaffhausen releases three new ceramic chronographs directly inspired by its collaboration with U.S. Navy squadrons. For the first time, these squadron watches are available to civilians. The chronographs feature the colors and emblems of three U.S. Navy and Marine Corps aviation units: the ‘Royal Maces,’ ‘Tophatters,’ and ‘Blue Angels.’ Robust ceramic cases with a diameter of 44.5 mm and sealed titanium case backs engraved with squadron emblems protect the latest column wheel chronograph movement.
LEGAL AVIATION WATCHES
Unlike many watch brands that release aviation-inspired watches without any real connections, IWC directly collaborates with military programs and receives vital feedback from pilots to enhance cockpit watch performance. By releasing specially designed wrist instruments since 1936, such as the ‘Special Pilot’s Watches’, observation watches during World War II, and the Mark XI Navigator’s Watch for the RAF, IWC has earned its wings. In the 1930s and 1940s, IWC played a significant role in creating the type of pilot watches with a white luminescent triangular index with two dots at the ‘12 o'clock’ position on a matte black background.
In 2018, IWC received a license to produce watches for U.S. Navy and Marine Corps aviation units and collaborates with more than a dozen squadrons, releasing special editions exclusively for active pilots and veterans.
‘ROYAL MACES’
This 27th Strike Fighter Squadron (VFA-27), based at Marine Corps Air Station Iwakuni, Japan, is part of the 5th Carrier Air Wing. Known as the ‘Royal Maces,’ this Super Hornet fighter squadron was formed in 1967, and its emblem is a gloved hand holding a black mace on a black and yellow background, often depicted on the tail of the Super Hornet.
Based on the military version design developed jointly with squadron members and the squadron emblem colors, the latest civilian chronograph version features a 43.5 mm matte black zirconium oxide ceramic case, pushers and crown made of Ceratanium®, and bold yellow details. Ceramic is widely used in the watch industry mainly due to its remarkable scratch resistance properties, but the natural black layer formed after exposing zirconium to high temperatures also has anti-reflective properties. Additionally, the buttons controlling the chronograph functions are made of IWC's patented Ceratanium® material. It has the light and strong properties of titanium, yet the hard, scratch-resistant qualities of ceramic. IWC balanced the chronograph dials at 12, 6, and 9 o'clock with a day and date function at three o'clock. The luminous central hands and Arabic numerals on the periphery of the dial have been treated with a luminescent compound to assist in time reading during night flights or low-light conditions.
Bright yellow details can be seen on the squadron emblem on the small seconds counter at six o'clock and its yellow hand, in the date and day of the week window at three o'clock, on the buttons, on the tip of the central seconds hand, and even on the stitching and inner lining of the black calfskin strap. The back of the watch is sealed with a Grade 5 titanium case back engraved with the F/A-18E Super Hornet squadron emblem.
‘TOPHATTERS’
The 14th Strike Fighter Squadron (VFA-14) was formed in 1919, is the oldest active Navy squadron, and matches its motto ‘the oldest and the boldest.’ Based at Naval Air Station Lemoore, California, the squadron is nicknamed ‘Tophatters’ and flies F/A-18E Super Hornets.
The ‘Tophatters’ watch with a black zirconium oxide case is identical to the ‘Royal Maces’ and is done in a black, white, and red color scheme. The black hat of the squadron emblem is placed inside the small white seconds counter at six o'clock, pointed to by a bright red hand. Red is also used for the day and date indication, the tip of the central seconds hand, the rings on the buttons, as well as the stitching and lining of the black calfskin strap. The case back of the watch, made of Grade 5 titanium, is engraved with the hat in the center and the inscriptions ‘Tophatters,’ ‘Boldest,’ ‘Oldest,’ and ‘Est. 1919.’
‘BLUE ANGELS’
The ‘Blue Angels’ is the U.S. Navy's flight demonstration squadron and the second oldest aerobatic team in the world after the French Patrouille de France (formed in 1931).
Like other demonstration squadrons, its role is to conduct air shows and ‘demonstrate the pride and professionalism of the United States Navy and Marine Corps, inspiring a culture of excellence and service to the country’. With 141 members from the Navy and Marine Corps, demonstration pilots fly six single-seat F/A-18 Hornets in over 70 shows across the U.S. each year. Painted in blue with dynamic gold details, the F/A-18 Super Hornets used for demonstrations are somewhat different from combat versions: the cannon system is removed, and the aircraft are fitted with smoke generators to highlight maneuvers.
Celebrating its 75th anniversary this year, the ‘Blue Angels’ have flown an extensive range of aircraft. They started with the F6 Hellcat, F8 Bearcat, and F9 Panther. In the 1950s, they refined their demonstration flights on the F9 Cougar and F-11 Tiger and first introduced the six-plane delta formation - a spectacular aerobatic maneuver they perform to this day. By the late 1960s, the ‘Blue Angels’ were flying the F-4 Phantom and later transitioned to the A-4 Skyhawk. In 1986, in their 40th anniversary year, they switched to the F/A-18 Hornet. In 2021, the ‘Blue Angels’ transitioned to the F/A-18 Super Hornet and now perform with it. Each of their aircraft is adorned with blue and gold - the official colors of the U.S. Navy.
IWC became the official licensee of the U.S. Navy Department in 2018 and, in collaboration with the Navy, developed two special edition chronographs: the 2019 Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition ‘Blue Angels’ (Ref. IW389008) made of black ceramic and this latest edition celebrating the 75th anniversary of the ‘Blue Angels’ this year.
Inspired by the military watches developed jointly with members of the Blue Angel organization in Pensacola, Florida, the new chronograph features a bright blue ceramic case with the golden U.S. Navy ‘Wings’ emblem on the small seconds counter, highlighted in yellow and white on a blue background. Yellow is also used along the entire length of the central seconds hand, small seconds hand, rings on the chronograph buttons, and the date and day of the week window at three o'clock. Unlike the other two models, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition ‘Blue Angels’ (Ref. IW389109) comes on a blue rubber strap with a textile inlay.
CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT ‘NEW STANDARD’
This integrated column wheel chronograph - caliber 69830 - is the new standard for all IWC chronograph watches, a departure from the older and outsourced Valjoux 7750-based movements. The simplest way to distinguish these two calibers from the dial side is the new placement of the small seconds sub-dial, now located at six o'clock instead of nine o'clock. The caliber 69380, equipped with a bi-directional pawl winding system providing a 46-hour power reserve, and a column wheel to control the stopwatch function, is protected from magnetic fields by a soft iron case.
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE
The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition ‘Royal Maces,’ ‘Tophatters,’ and ‘Blue Angels’ will be available from September 9 in IWC boutiques, through authorized retail partners, or online at IWC.com. The retail price is 11,900 Swiss Francs.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – IWC PILOT’S WATCH CHRONOGRAPH U.S. NAVY SQUADRONS EDITIONS
Case: Diameter 44 mm x Height 15.7 mm - black or blue matte zirconium oxide ceramic case with Ceratanium® chronograph pushers and sandblasted crown - convex sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating is secured against displacement caused by drops in air pressure - Grade 5 titanium case back - water resistance 60 meters
Dial: Black or blue - squadron emblem on the small seconds counter at six o'clock - 12-hour counter at nine o'clock, 30-minute counter at twelve o'clock - day/date display at three o'clock - luminescent hands and hour markers
Movement: Caliber 69380, in-house developed - automatic with pawl winding - integrated column wheel chronograph - 33 jewels - 30 mm - 28,800 vibrations/hour - power reserve 46 h - hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters, day/date
References: IW389107 ‘Royal Maces’
IW389108 ‘Tophatters’
IW389109 ‘Blue Angels’
Availability: All three models are limited to 500 pieces each
Price: 11,900 SWISS FRANCS (~13,000 USD)