Awake Sơn Mài Union Jack: Lacquer Technique Watch Review

Recently, I wrote about the latest Awake Sơn Mài collection - a trio of watches that vividly demonstrate how the independent French brand continues to seek new ways to showcase its signature dial artistry.

Embracing the traditional Vietnamese art of lacquer, the Guilloché Main collection proved that even after several years of producing some of the most recognizable dials in the micro-brand segment, Awake is not resting on its laurels.

This new release follows a slightly different concept. One reason Awake is popular among dial enthusiasts is that the watches rarely offer an unequivocal answer to the question "what exactly is before you." By nature, dials like Atlantis Blue and the original Frosted Leaf invite interpretation, evoking associations with distant galaxies, ocean expanses, or celestial phenomena - all achieved through texture, color, and play of light, rather than literal imagery. Even when Awake becomes more literal, as in the Kill Bill model, the brand uses subtle and thoughtful references executed through traditional techniques to achieve the desired effect.

Design and Features of the Awake Sơn Mài Union Jack Dial

At first glance, this seems like another striking addition to the rapidly expanding catalogue of lacquered Awake watches, combining deep blues, rich reds, and flashes of silver and white - colors inspired by the British flag. However, upon closer inspection, a rather familiar silhouette can be found at the center of the dial - something Awake has never done before. Hidden within the complex layers of lacquer is a miniature image of the United Kingdom, meticulously hand-engraved. This limited series gave the brand a reason to take its Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf technique beyond abstraction to a more figurative image, emphasizing Awake's close ties to the UK market and culture.

Watch Case

Unlike the recent Guilloché Main model, the new Frosted Leaf Union Jack is crafted in the familiar 39 mm case used in several models of the Sơn Mài series. The case is made from recycled 316L stainless steel. Its smooth lines and absence of straight angles make the watch pleasant to the touch and comfortable to wear. The case thickness is only 11.8 mm, including sapphire glass with a smooth, pebble-like surface. This makes the watch easy to tuck under a shirt cuff, though personally, I believe such a watch shouldn't be hidden.

The lug-to-lug distance is 45.6 mm, ensuring comfort for daily wear. Water resistance at a level of 50 meters is suitable for most everyday situations. The top of the case is polished to a high shine, while the sides have a matte finish. With daily use, the case will inevitably show signs of wear, but this is no cause for concern - such watches are meant to be enjoyed, and the play of light on polished surfaces only enhances the dramatic effect.

Dial and Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Technique

The dial deserves special attention. If you are familiar with previous Frosted Leaf models, the creation process will be familiar to you. Multiple layers of traditional Vietnamese sơn mài lacquer, natural pigments, and silver foil are carefully applied, sanded, and refined several times, creating impressive depth and texture - the signature of the collection. The main difference in this model is the inclusion of a detailed, figurative element for the first time: a miniature silhouette of the United Kingdom, hand-engraved on silver foil.

According to Awake, it takes about 15 hours to create a single dial, as confirmed by the photographs. Interestingly, the Union Jack theme is not made obvious. At a glance, the motif might go unnoticed. The deep blue lacquer, silver highlights, vibrant red accents, and a fine white veil around the dial indeed resemble the colors of the British flag, but the dial doesn't appear as a novelty or a nod to fashion. The silhouette of the UK gradually reveals itself upon closer inspection, rewarding curiosity rather than demanding attention - and that's why it works.

Why the United Kingdom?

The United Kingdom holds a special place in Awake's history. According to the brand: "The United Kingdom was one of the first territories to trust us, understand our approach, and support our concept with rare loyalty." Awake decided to pay tribute to this relationship by expressing a unique vision of British elegance while remaining understated and deeply rooted in tradition.

Hands and Indices

Above the miniature map rise the blade-shaped hands and indices characteristic of the latest Awake models. They are made from faceted polished steel and mounted on small blocks coated with Super LumiNova. During the day, the hands appear to float effortlessly, and in the dark, they transform completely - the soft glow highlights nearly every element of the dial. Together with the white border, the dial achieves a dramatic backlight effect, making the watch interesting even in darkness.

Watch Movement

The Frosted Leaf Union Jack is equipped with the automatic caliber La Joux-Perret G101, visible through the transparent case back. The back is adorned with laser engraving indicating the serial number out of 50 pieces, emphasizing the limited release. As I've noted in reviews of previous Awake models, the G101 is an excellent movement, a worthy alternative to ETA and Sellita. It boasts an impressive 68-hour power reserve and is aesthetically appealing with fine finishing and a custom tungsten rotor with alternating polished and matte surfaces.

Strap

While the dial design doesn't include innovations, the strap adds an element of luxury. It is hand-crafted by leather artisans Maison Bouveret from Franche-Comté, made from deep blue nubuck with bright red stitching, perfectly complementing the dial. The inner part is made from rubberized calfskin for flexibility, comfort, and durability. The strap is secured with a classic 316L stainless steel clasp.

Final Assessment

The first half of 2026 has been a time of significant releases for Awake, each elevating the brand to a new level. Although the overall concept of the watches has barely changed since the first release, the brand has managed to develop it through exceptional dial work, maintaining freshness and relevance. This is a testament to the high level of design: despite the meticulous work on the dial, the core of the watch remains interesting and contemporary. From the elegantly curved case to the clear details and readable layout - Awake Sơn Mài only gets better, without changing its essence.

Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Union Jack is not just a tribute to the United Kingdom but also a demonstration of Awake's constant pursuit of innovation in dial craftsmanship. The brand's growing popularity is largely due to the interest of the British market, but the success is primarily due to high quality and attention to detail, especially in dial work. I suspect this isn't the only limited edition dedicated to specific locations, but if you're interested in the Union Jack, the watches will be available from June 13, 1:00 PM BST in limited quantities online.

Technical Specifications and Availability of Awake Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Union Jack