In light of the ninth edition of the Only Watch charity event, where unique timepieces are donated and auctioned to raise funds for the fight against Duchenne muscular dystrophy, TAG Heuer presents a very remarkable watch. It impresses not only with its appearance, echoing the historic and highly sought-after vintage Heuer Monaco, but also with the extensive use of carbon fiber almost everywhere, even inside the movement. For Only Watch 2021, presumably a one-time-only piece, the TAG Heuer OnlyWatch Carbon Monaco revisits the carbon fiber hairspring.
The Heuer Monaco watch is a true icon of watchmaking and undoubtedly one of the most recognizable watches on the planet. The square-cased watch is considered one of the strongest ever created. Of course, the fact that cinema legend Steve McQueen wore it on the big screen played a significant role, but a watch with a status like Monaco's is rare in the industry.
And although not all "Monacos" since the model's debut in 1969 can boast the same strong spirit, they have remained a cornerstone of the TAG Heuer collection ever since. Over 50 years, countless variations have seen the light, from exclusive to very complex. For many enthusiasts and collectors, a Monaco is not a Monaco if it is not equipped with a chronograph movement, with the caliber 11 being the preferred choice for obvious reasons.
Today, TAG Heuer propels the Monaco model further into the future by extensively using forged carbon fiber. In some ways, this is a tribute to one of the most sought-after Monaco models, the so-called "Dark Lord" edition. This legendary Monaco model, ref. 74033N, never featured in Heuer's official catalog and was distinguished by a black PVD-coated case, black dial, and white, beige, and red-orange details on the dial. TAG Heuer has already used this specific color scheme as inspiration for the dial of the TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 "France Edition" CAW211S.
The TAG Heuer OnlyWatch Carbon Monaco retains the signature square case measuring 39 mm by 39 mm, otherwise it simply wouldn't be Monaco. Made entirely of forged carbon, this watch is very lightweight, although the chronograph movement somewhat compensates for this. Of course, these are not the first Monaco watches made from carbon fiber, but they take it to a new level. As always, the watch is topped with a faceted square sapphire crystal. However, on the back, we see a larger sapphire glass that reveals the entire movement (more on this later).
Continuing the carbon fiber theme, the dial is also made from a solid piece of forged carbon. It is neatly skeletonized with straight lines in an almost industrial grille style. The concave outer minute track draws attention, and three galvanic brass plates serve to indicate the 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters and the small seconds hand.
From this minute track, machined massive blocks of beige Super-LumiNova emerge. In line with the Monaco Dark Lord 74033N model and the central theme of this year's Only Watch collection, inspired by the sun, the central hour and minute hands feature orange details. The central chronograph seconds hand and the hands of all three sub-dials are also orange.
Flipping the watch over, you can see the Heuer 02 chronograph movement inside. Originally, this movement is a standard integrated chronograph found in TAG Heuer collections, but it has been significantly upgraded. Given that the watch's dial is skeletonized, TAG Heuer has made an effort to decorate the top of the movement. The back side is also widely decorated, with the checkered flag Graté finish being particularly notable.
The distinguishing feature of this movement from all other Heuer 02 calibers is the use of a carbon hairspring, which returns after being developed and first unveiled by TAG Heuer in 2019 on the Carrera tourbillon, then entered the Autavia collection... and was replaced just before commercialization with a more traditional metal spring. Using carbon's properties as a material for the hairspring makes a lot of theoretical sense, as it is non-magnetic, practically shock-resistant, and performs perfect concentric oscillations. Although the carbon hairspring was left for large-scale production (likely too optimistic at that stage to become part of classic Calibre 5 watches), it is still used in the Carrera Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph and now, in an improved format, in these OnlyWatch Carbon Monaco.
The movement is equipped with a special skeletonized rotor, shaped like the TAG Heuer shield. On the outer edge of the rotor, you can notice a hand-painted orange-yellow line, resonating with the use of orange on the watch face and the theme of this year's Only Watch collection. Finally, a specially crafted strap uses silicone injection into the leather sole, which is then thermally stamped in the shape of metal links. It is attached to a familiar folding clasp that allows for smooth strap length adjustment when worn, made, of course, from forged carbon.
TAG Heuer states that these watches will never be repeated, which makes sense, as they are intended for unique occasions. But truthfully, we know how things have been with several other Only Watch creations in the past, which not only inspired successful collections but also followed the unique piece.
The estimated price for the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is 50,000 - 100,000 Swiss Francs.