In the past decade, the watch industry has seen a significant and long-awaited increase in collaborations.
Previously, such projects were the domain of only the largest brands, but now even smaller manufacturers are actively collaborating to create unique models. Among such examples is ProLab, which brought together two genuine German watchmakers in an attractive two-watch set: ProLab Laco X Circula, where the classic pilot Laco Typ-B Flieger meets the modern field Circula ProTrail.
Field Watches: Practicality and Versatility
Field watches are essentially "watches for thinkers," an alternative to dive watches for those who value functionality and simplicity. Despite my respect for divers, many of them remain "office" watches that rarely see water. Hungarian watch enthusiasts even call such models "asphalt divers," highlighting their mismatch with their original purpose.
Field watches offer the same durability, readability, and utility as divers, but without the rotating bezel necessary for timing decompression. That's why, when I first saw this release and received a review sample, I was most interested in the sand-colored field watch. The collaboration and the pilot model took a back seat - I just wanted quality field watches and to see how well Laco and Circula accomplished the task.
The Second Model of the Set: Pilot Watches ProLab Typ-B Flieger Circula
The set includes two models, packaged in an aluminum case, limited to 170 pieces - corresponding to the number of years Laco (100 years) and Circula (70 years) will celebrate in 2025. The manufacturers call this a "clearly defined, not artificially scarce" release. Considering the scale of both brands and the cautious approach to creating an expensive and unusual set, such limitation seems justified.
The second model, ProLab Typ-B Flieger Circula, stands out with a double digital dial, focused on convenient and accurate reading of minutes and seconds, while the hours are shifted to a small additional dial - logical for pilot watches where minutes and seconds are more important. This layout is rare but very convenient and well-executed in this model.
Unique Design and Mixture of Elements from Two Brands
Interestingly, the press release does not reveal an important fact: both models in the set represent a kind of mixture of each other. The pilot watch, inspired by the early-mid 20th-century design, received a massive modern Circula case, while the field watch, originally with an angular Circula case, received a vintage, traditional Laco case with a round bezel and elegant lugs. This exchange of elements turned out to be very successful - both models look harmonious and natural, both in photos and in real life.
The dials are also specially modified for this set, including elements from both brands. For example, the pilot dial received modern Circula typography with two-digit numbers, while the field watch features classic curved numbers in the style of Laco aviation instruments. The railroad track on the periphery of the pilot watch is taken from the field watch - creating an effect of organic and cohesive design.
Technical Specifications and Similarities of the Models
Both models have a case diameter of 40 mm, are covered with Super-LumiNova on the hands, equipped with thermally blued hands, and have convenient crowns. Inside is the Sellita SW200-1 movement in Elaboré execution, which Circula individually regulates in the range of -5/+7 seconds per day - close to the COSC chronometer standard. The movement does not have a quick date change function, which is logical, as there is no date on the watches. The power reserve is about 38 hours with the possibility of winding both from the crown and from the automatic mechanism.
The pilot watch case is coated with a special coating that increases scratch resistance up to 1200 on the Vickers scale and also has magnetic protection up to 80,000 A/m (about 1000 gauss), comparable to the Milgauss level. The field case, on the other hand, is matte sand-darkened, which reduces reflections and is ideal for use both in the sky and on the ground.
Wear and Comfort: Comparing the Two Models on the Wrist
Despite the same diameter, the pilot watch looks wider due to the square shape of the dial and the large surfaces of the case - about 2 mm more. The field watch appears more compact due to narrower lugs and matte execution. The thickness also differs: the pilot watch is 13.4 mm with water resistance of 150 m, the field watch is 11.3 mm and 200 m respectively. Both are equipped with screw-down crowns for extra protection.
The set includes two straps: black and sand-colored. The black strap poorly matches the Circula case and does not suit the Laco field watch at all. The sand strap looks harmonious with the yellowish dial and helps the angular model to stand out.
Spring bars without tools simplify strap replacement, and the high hardness of the case coating protects against scratches.
Dial Features and Additional Details
The sand field dial has a wide outer ring covered with Super-LumiNova with a green tint even in daylight, making it more expressive.
The central part of the dial remains light yellow. For those who pay attention to color nuances, this may seem unusual, but personally, I find this detail adds uniqueness and sophistication. The luminescent coating of the pilot watch is less bright but fully covers the second hand, which is nice.
The back of the case is laser-engraved with a map of Pforzheim indicating both brands and two gold dots - a pleasant touch that is not felt when worn. The aluminum case also has a gold plaque with the map and release number. Small protrusions on the spring bars are sometimes felt, reducing comfort but not critically.
Conclusions: Quality German Collaboration with a Unique Style
An order for interesting field watches turned into a balanced set of two models, each complementing the other and offering a diverse wearing experience.
ProLab Laco X Circula is a well-thought-out collaboration with attention to detail, combining two worlds in an elegant and modern execution. The high quality of the case, dial, movement, and presentation underscores the potential of the "Made In Germany" label, which here is complemented by the inscription "Made In Pforzheim" on the dials and case backs.
The set is priced at 2990 USD excluding VAT. It is not a budget offering, but the unique story, joint production, and versatility in use justify the cost.
Purchasing individual models separately will be about 500 dollars cheaper, but without the exclusive design elements, case, and packaging.