As you have probably heard, Longines recently introduced a new generation of its most popular model - the Hydroconquest.
At the Onewatch studio, we got our hands on a sample of the 42 mm version, ref. L3.788.4.90.6. We had the opportunity to study the watch for about a week, which allowed us to become thoroughly familiar with it and prepare an expert article for you. During the hustle and bustle of Geneva Watch Week, I didn't specify my preferred size, so I received the 42 mm version. The model is also available in what seems to be the perfect size of 39 mm, which would have been better suited for my wrist with a circumference of 16.5 cm.
We received the version with a black dial and a blue bezel, which, in my opinion, looks the most unique but not too flashy. The bezel is made of a rich blueberry-colored ceramic with the corresponding "Hydroconquest" inscription on the dial at the "6 o'clock" position. Other notable variants include a smoky dial limited edition Commonwealth Games, sunny green, and icy blue colors, each with different bezel combinations and styles.
Refined Hydroconquest Design
Longines took cues from the best in the watch industry. The company knows it has a successful model in the Hydroconquest, so instead of a radical redesign, thoughtful and careful changes were made to the case, bezel, and dial. The main style of the Hydroconquest is retained, and the watch is easily recognizable even from a distance.
The first things that immediately caught my eye were the bezel, the dial layout, and the prominent crown guards. All three elements now look much better than in the previous generation. The design has shifted from sharp angles and bulkiness to smoother, more refined lines with improved ergonomics.
Let me introduce a new term - the new version of the Hydroconquest has become "submarinerized." This means that the watch has adopted a more classic diver's look and is now significantly closer in style to the Rolex Submariner than the previous model. The old generation looked rougher but maintained its uniqueness, distinguishing the Hydroconquest from competitors.
Improved Wearability and Legibility
The wearability and legibility of the new version have significantly improved. The large Arabic numerals from the previous model have been removed. Instead, a more restrained design is used with alternating round and rectangular markers, a triangle at the "12 o'clock" position, and a date window at "6 o'clock." The markers are large and luminescent, making it easier to read the time against the black dial background. Compared to the previous version, where large numbers dominated, the new dial looks simpler and more pleasing to the eye.
The hands have remained almost unchanged but have become slightly larger, which harmonizes with the enlarged markers. The new bezel is made of high-quality ceramic with a classic 60-minute diving scale.
The font, saturation, and spacing between the numbers have been updated, giving a more modern look. The ceramic has an excellent polish that exceeds the quality usually expected in the price range of about 2400 USD for both versions on a Milanese bracelet. The deep blue bezel color, reminiscent of blueberries, is particularly impressive and, as is known, is difficult to achieve due to the peculiarities of the firing process during production.
Dimensions and Wrist Comfort
Most buyers will likely prefer the 39 mm version. After a few days of wearing the 42 mm model, it became evident that the 39 mm would have suited me better and provided a more comfortable fit on my wrist. The 42 mm version offers more space on the dial, but for wrists under 18 cm, this is not always justified. Interestingly, the case thickness is the same for both versions - 11.7 mm, which is impressive considering the automatic Longines L888.5 caliber (based on ETA A31.L11) installed in the watch. This demonstrates Longines' expertise in refining ETA movements.
The "lug-to-lug" distance for the 42 mm version is 51.2 mm, which is almost the maximum for my wrist - the case lugs slightly touch its edges. For the 39 mm version, this figure is 48.1 mm, which seems like a small difference on paper but significantly affects the perceived size in reality. Despite this, the new generation Hydroconquest looks very elegant on the wrist thanks to the updated design elements and a more streamlined case.
Final Impressions
Although I had limited time with the watch, and I had the larger 42 mm version, I can confidently say that the new generation is a significant step forward compared to the previous one. The proportions have been perfected, the angles of the case, lugs, and protective elements have been radically improved, and the dial has become cleaner and more modern. Ignoring the resemblance to the iconic Submariner, this watch deserves high praise.
The Hydroconquest is likely the best "premium" entry-level diver on the market. One step above are the Tudor Pelagos 39 and BB58, which are significantly better but twice as expensive. Even higher are the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster. There are few direct competitors to the Hydroconquest among major brands, except for some small niche manufacturers.
Table of Key Features of the New Generation Longines Hydroconquest
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Case Diameter | 39 mm / 42 mm |
| Case Thickness | 11.7 mm |
| Lug-to-Lug Distance | 48.1 mm (39 mm) / 51.2 mm (42 mm) |
| Bezel Material | Ceramic with deep blue finish |
| Movement | Automatic Longines L888.5 (ETA A31.L11) |
| Dial | Black with blue bezel, luminescent markers |
| Water Resistance | Diver's standard (specified) |
| Price | Approximately 2400 USD |
This review demonstrates that Longines managed to retain the recognizability of the Hydroconquest while making the model more modern and convenient for everyday use. The new generation harmoniously combines classic elements with innovations, making the watch attractive to a wide audience of diving watch enthusiasts.