The Only Watch charity auction, held biennially in support of Duchenne muscular dystrophy, is always one of the most anticipated and exciting events for collectors and watch enthusiasts. This year, on November 6 in Geneva, 53 brands will present unique watches. You probably remember that the last Only Watch in 2019 featured the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A, which sold for a record 31 million Swiss francs. Although I doubt this record will be broken this year, it's likely that Patek will once again be at the top - but this time with a desk clock.
Audemars Piguet will also attract significant attention with possibly the last Royal Oak ref. 15202 model, with the Only Watch ref. 1520XT in titanium and bulk metallic glass, which are aesthetically almost identical to the original Series A Royal Oak ref. 5402. There are also several models whose photos we have not yet seen, particularly the collaboration between Voutilainen x De Bethune, which will undoubtedly have two faces.
One of the models about which little is known, except for a sketch of the movement, is the Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II, featuring a new caliber with what appears to be a deadbeat seconds hand and dual barrels. So far, we only have this sketch, and we know the watch will have an enamel dial, but we will be watching them closely. I also can't help but mention the MB&F HM10 Panda model, a charming take on the HM10 Bulldog model seen in some sketches. The sketches of this model bring a smile to my face, which will undoubtedly widen when we see the photos.
So, let's get to it. Here are our favorite Only Watch 2021 releases chosen by the OneWatch editors. We look forward to hearing the community's opinions in the comments section.
ARIEL ADAMS
The limited El Primero Defy Felipe Pantone model was one of the most memorable watches of 2021. Now Zenith enhances this magnificent concept with a complex chronograph featuring a double tourbillon and a sapphire glass case. Isn't that reason enough to desire it?
One of the most popular trends in luxury watches right now is the organic style, and one of the most famous luxury items in history is animals. Therefore, I am delighted to see MB&F transform their HM10 into a panda with a body and face. The design uses ceramics, titanium, steel, and sapphire glass, and the watch should be one of the most interesting unique creations of our time.
The most interesting watches in the world often result from answers to simple questions. In this case, the question was asked by the famous filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola to watchmaker François-Paul Journe: Can you make a watch that shows the hours with a hand? After seven years of contemplation and development, such a watch appeared, and the first prototype of these watches is being sold at the Only Watch auction. FP Journe calls the watch FFC (after the director's initials), and they feature a rotating hand that points to the minutes and, like an automaton, changes shape to indicate them.
DAVID BREDAN
Presented in a 5.80 mm thick tantalum case, Bulgari's 2021 Only Watch model is a unique variation of the Octo Finissimo perpetual calendar. The cool and refreshing dial hides a 2.75 mm thick movement - the world record-holding BVL Calibre 305. Despite the striking thinness, the movement provides a 60-hour power reserve - no small feat considering what 'historic' brands offer. The uniqueness is added by a blue dial with an orange tint - can you spot the orange 'OW' lettering, denoting Only Watch? I wish such details were more common among new (and regularly released) luxury watches.
Konstantin Chaykin created for Only Watch 2021 the Martian Tourbillon, perhaps the most technical watch in his extremely successful 'Wristmons' series. In fact, this is big news: these are Chaykin's first wristwatches with a tourbillon.
During our visit to his production, the Russian watchmaker showed us prototypes of wristwatch movements with all sorts of complications, including a tourbillon - he simply wasn't interested in refining them into 'ordinary' tourbillons and minute repeaters, which his contemporaries are so proud of. Therefore, for the tourbillon to happen, it had to have a twist: the world's first Martian tourbillon, which makes a revolution every 61.65 seconds - the duration of one Martian minute, partially reducing the influence of Mars' gravity...
If you had it with you on Mars, well, you get it. Oh, and that smile? It's the world's first Martian calendar device, working on the calendar system algorithms of Thomas Gangale. The smile represents a Martian month consisting of 28 sols, and the sol markers are made using symbols of the Martian numeration system, which Konstantin Chaykin designed specifically for this watch.
BILAL KHAN
Krayon has only been around for a few years, but the Everywhere and Anywhere watches, created by master Rémi Maillat, in my opinion, are modern heavyweights. For Only Watch 2021, the Krayon Anywhere watch features a modern hand-painted dial representing an interpretation of Monet's 'Impression, Sunrise.' It's a beautiful mosaic, subtly reflecting this year's orange theme, as well as a nod to the Anywhere watch's complication related to sunrise and sunset.
Krayon produces some of the most beautiful movements, and this Only Watch model uses the very first prototype caliber from the stunning C030 series. The astonishingly thin 5 mm movement, in my opinion, is simply mind-blowing, and it's an early part of the history of a brand that is just beginning its journey.
This isn't a watch, but the Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001 looks like an absolute masterpiece and a good way to relieve the pressure after the record-breaking sales of 2019. Inspired by a 1923 piece made for James Ward Packard, the desk clock is made in a sterling silver case with American walnut inserts and vermicelli decorative elements.
The brand new caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE is equipped with a perpetual calendar, moon phase indicator, week number indicator, and a 31-day (744 hours) power reserve indicator. By opening the front panel, you can see the crank, which is used to wind the movement and set the time or functions using a series of buttons located at the top. The entire mechanism is simply mind-blowing, and I would not be shocked if these desk clocks surpass all others at the Only Watch 2021 exhibition.
SEAN LORENTZEN
As one of the last, rarest, and visually extraordinary Heuer Monaco caliber 11/12 models released in the '70s, the 'Dark Lord' model with black PVD coating and its more serious sports approach to the iconic square chronograph is one of the most collectible models in the entire Monaco line.
For Only Watch 2021, TAG Heuer reinvents the 'Dark Lord' as an aggressive, high-tech version of the current Heuer 02 Monaco model, using new materials and clever nods to the Monaco '70s lineage. TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco reimagines the familiar square 39mm Monaco case in forged carbon. The intricate web of the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco dial is carved from a single piece of forged carbon fiber, giving it a monolithic appearance. The fiery orange accents are also borrowed from the '70s model, paying homage to the official orange palette of Only Watch 2021.
The Heuer 02 automatic chronograph movement installed in the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is also custom-made: almost every element of both sides of the movement undergoes complex hand finishing, a process that takes up to 25 hours. As for technical aspects, these are the first Heuer 02 watches and the first Monaco watches equipped with TAG Heuer's experimental carbon spring, which, according to the brand, provides exceptional shock resistance, anti-magnetism, temperature stability, and chronometric performance.
The black TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco calfskin strap repeats the pattern of the NSA bracelet installed on the original Monaco 'Dark Lord' model. Combining the look of one of the most unique vintage Heuer Monaco models with an aggressive modern forged carbon solution and impressive finishing detail, TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco stands out in a year that has so far been extremely fruitful for the Monaco line.
Only Watch expects the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco to be sold for between 50,000 and 100,000 Swiss francs.
If there were still any doubts that Swiss luxury digital watches inspired by the '70s are currently making a comeback, this should put an end to the discussion. In the field of the Only Watch competition, dominated by highly complex haute horlogerie pieces, Girard-Perregaux and partner Bamford Watch Department's decision to choose not only quartz but also digital watches allowed the two brands to create one of the most striking and distinctive releases in the entire auction lineup.
Although the new Girard-Perregaux Casquette - Only Watch Edition is certainly derived from the original Casquette model of the '70s, this retro-futuristic shape in the style of Syd Mead has received an ultra-modern look due to the use of materials. The rounded rectangular case measuring 42.4 mm by 33.6 mm is made of lightweight forged carbon with stripes, and the digital dial is set into the 6 o'clock side of the shape. Girard-Perregaux wraps this shape around the wrist with a titanium Grade 5 caseback and buttons.
The ruby-red LED display at the '6 o'clock' position harks back to the earliest digital watch models, including the original Casquette, but the Casquette - Only Watch Edition has its own trick up its sleeve. While the original model was just a watch, the new version can switch between two time zones, a chronograph, a date indicator, and what Girard-Perregaux calls a 'secret date.' This feature allows the user to daily program a meaningful date to be displayed at a chosen time.
The Girard-Perregaux Casquette - Only Watch Edition, made in an elegant retro-futuristic '70s style using high-tech materials, may be the most unique and eye-catching pieces at this year's exhibition. Only Watch expects the Girard-Perregaux Casquette - Only Watch Edition to be sold for between 10,000 and 20,000 Swiss francs.
ZACH PIÑA
I love the Only Watch cycle - not because of the altruistic origins of the auction or the wild novelties to gaze at, but simply because many of these more accessible watches behind secret doors give a hint of the concepts that different brands may experiment with to release later.
One such concept is a more instrumental approach to modern sports watches from Chopard in stainless steel Alpine Eagle. And as I expected - the beaded Lucent steel case and elastic leather strap with contoured titanium inserts are starting to strongly resemble a one-off Vacheron Constantin Overseas prototype for Cory Richards a few years ago - another fully debadged luxury sports watch that evokes feelings in me.
The idea of stripping a luxury product of all external details that make it 'seem' luxurious is a principle that I have always very much liked, and it works perfectly with the usually very shiny Alpine Eagle, especially with the fully matte bezel and matching screws. I also found it strange that the original Alpine Eagle hit the market without the option of a strap - which is a shame since I would argue that the bracelet is not for everyone.
I also love stone dials, and this special Alpine Eagle XL Chrono model for Only Watch uses a beautiful multi-colored granite dial, mined in the Swiss Graubünden region. It is an elegant tie to the mountain-inspired watch, and it represents a broader concept that I would like to see in the Alpine Eagle platform as a whole. When the dust settles at the auction, these one-of-a-kind Chopard for Only Watch watches are expected to sell for between 30,000 and 50,000 Swiss francs, which is a decent premium over the standard Alpine Eagle Chrono XL model, which sells for 19,200 francs.
Let's clarify one thing: to participate in the Only Watch auction, you must at least have a physical prototype - conceptual watches or not. But since Akrivia and MB&F have already been presented, I will set aside my dissatisfaction and add a third sketch on a napkin - from the rising indie star Czapek, which hints at the future Antarctique with a wild skeletonized 'Rattrapante' (split-second) chronograph design named 'Sunrise' for what we can assume will be orange CVD (chemical vapor deposition) elements of the mechanism and dial.
Given Czapek's current expertise in working with colored dials, it can be assumed that this model will be quite impressive, and it is also nice to see Antarctique getting more complications, but damn, it would be nice to have a better look at it. The auction estimate for these soon-to-be-released watches is from 60,000 to 90,000 Swiss francs.
