Watches sometimes originate in unexpected places, but Transylvania is, to put it mildly, unusual. Known more for Dracula and vampires than watches, it is home to the small watch company Peren. Recently, we were introduced to the Hintz model by Peren, inspired by early 20th-century Wyler/Hintz pocket watches, and now we are looking at the Nera Rogue model, which pays homage to the legendary dive watches by Blancpain. The Tornek Rayville TR-900 - 'Fifty Fathoms' through and through, with the clever addition of 'Tornek-Rayville' on the dial to circumvent U.S. laws prioritizing domestic military watches. The Peren Nera Rogue is a modern interpretation.
1,100 of these Blancpain watches were ordered for the U.S. Navy Seals in the 1960s, and only about 30 exist today. Peren has been around for five years and often finds inspiration in the past for its collections. However, it does not produce clones or copies but reimagines designs in a contemporary way. The Nera Rogue has elements of the Fifty Fathoms, but it deviates far enough from the original to clearly separate itself.
The stainless steel case diameter of 39 mm is restrained for a modern diver, yet a refreshing, versatile size. The height is 12.8 mm, and the lug-to-lug distance is 48.8 mm. Three case finish options include bead-blasted, brushed, and hand-polished. The unidirectional, conical rotating bezel features black PVD coating with bold white markers every five minutes. There's no detailed scale, but the simplicity maintains a modern vibe. The mid-century Tornek Rayville TR-900 was similar, but with Arabic numerals at 15, 30, and 45 marks. There's also a second Peren model with a silver bezel and detailed 60-minute scale - the Nera Rogue X. The oversized screw-down crown is easy to manipulate, embossed with the Peren logo - fangs. Transylvania, friends.
The sapphire crystal features three anti-reflective layers, and the solid case back has an intriguing engraving - 'IF FOUND CONTACT PERENWATCHES.COM.' This echoes the original, which used the radioactive substance Promethium 147 for lume - 'IF FOUND RETURN TO NEAREST MILITARY FACILITY.' The water resistance is 200 meters, so divers will certainly find them suitable. Strap options include black nylon/leather NATO, three-link steel bracelet, ZULU leather, and vintage brown leather.
The dial continues the modern style with a black chapter ring and white square indices placed in shallow recesses. The dial is in a 'Nera' blue-green color, contrasting well with the white hands and indices. This color can be seen in the waters of Devil's Lake in the Nera Gorges of Transylvania. A date window with a matching blue-green background is positioned at the '3 o'clock' position, complementing the design well (a white background would have been unfortunate).
The sword-style hour and minute hands are brass with Super-LumiNova BGW9 inserts, as is the triangular tip of the second hand. The indices and triangular bezel marker are also luminescent. The overall aesthetic of the watch is simple, stylish, and modern, with excellent readability.
The Nera Rogue is powered by the Sellita SW200 movement, which Peren regulates in-house. This ubiquitous 'workhorse' is an alternative to the ETA 2824 and features 26 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 per hour (4 Hz), and a 38-hour power reserve. Functions include central hours, minutes, seconds, and date. Although Peren is based in Transylvania, the watches are assembled in Switzerland and are officially Swiss.
Peren has an intriguing diver in the Nera Rogue, and it's an excellent follow-up to the (entirely different) Hintz. It presents a modern interpretation of a rare classic without falling into the traps of cloning. If you can't afford the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, this is an excellent substitute at a very affordable price. Pre-orders start at just 449 Swiss Francs, and the number of watches is limited to 300 pieces, as is the Nero Rogue X. Deliveries are expected to begin in November 2021. For more information, visit the Peren website.
SPECIFICATIONS - PEREN NERA ROGUE
Case: 39 mm diameter x 12.8 mm height - 316L stainless steel - sapphire crystal with three anti-reflective layers - unidirectional, conical rotating bezel with black PVD coating - solid case back - screw-down crown - water resistance 200 m.
Dial: Nera blue/green - black chapter ring - brass hour, minute, and second hands with white coating and Super-LumiNova BGW9 inserts - white square indices with Super-LumiNova - date window with matching background at 3 o'clock
Movement: Sellita SW200 (alternative to ETA 2824) - automatic - 26 jewels - 28,800 per hour (4 Hz) - 38-hour power reserve - regulated in-house - central hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Strap: four strap options - black nylon/leather NATO, three-link steel bracelet, ZULU leather, and vintage brown leather (as presented here)
Availability: Limited edition of 300 pieces with delivery in November 2021
Price: pre-orders start at 449 Swiss Francs