Raymond Weil Millesime The Fifty: Anniversary Model with Valjoux 23-6

This year, the independent family-owned brand from Geneva, Raymond Weil, celebrates its 50th anniversary in true horological style.

For the anniversary, the company acquired 50 historic Valjoux 23-6 chronograph movements, which were restored and decorated by hand, then installed in the Millesime series watches. The Fifty model with a 37 mm case diameter may be Raymond Weil's most striking work in the brand's history. The four-component dial with various finishes gives the anniversary watch a unique and charismatic visual appeal.

The brand's founder, Mr. Raymond Weil (1926–2014), created his brand at the age of 50, exactly 50 years ago. Hence, the current name of the anniversary model - The Fifty - has an obvious meaning and sounds very concise and modern. The watches are particularly valuable because the famous Valjoux 23-6 movement - a legendary chronograph caliber, used for example in watches by Patek Philippe, another Swiss brand from Geneva - is hidden beneath the four-part dial.

Raymond Weil Millesime The Fifty: Restored Valjoux 23-6 - The Star of the Collection

Three years ago, when Raymond Weil first introduced the Millesime Small Seconds model, it was a surprise for the watch community. The watch also won the GPHG 2023 award in the Challenge Watch category. However, it is unsurprising that the model won the hearts of collectors: its size, proportions, dial design, and price were perfectly balanced. Subsequent versions, including chronographs, received equally positive reviews. Now, The Fifty with a 37 mm steel case, classic pump buttons, and a white gold bezel becomes the king of the collection.

The Fifty (ref. 1976-STC-65001) is not just an anniversary model but also a tribute to traditional Swiss watchmaking art. The best way to honor this craft is to showcase classic watchmaking skills. The Fifty embodies this by using 50 original Valjoux 23-6 movements from 1976 - the year Raymond Weil was founded. The Valjoux 23-6 movement is a famous hand-wound chronograph with a column wheel, a benchmark caliber that set standards for readability, reliability, and chronograph architecture. The balance frequency is 3 Hz, and the power reserve is about 48 hours. The dial features centrally located hours and minutes, a small seconds counter at 9 o'clock, and a 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o'clock.

All 50 movements were fully restored and hand-decorated before being installed in steel cases. The chronograph bridges and balance plate are made of black ruthenium with Côtes de Genève finishing, and blue screws add visual elegance. The anglage is done by hand, as are the bevels around the screws. Through the transparent case back, one can observe the play of light and the depth of the mechanism, which will particularly impress watch enthusiasts with a historical perspective.

Four-Part Dial - A Symbol of Depth and Style

Watches of this significance deserve a special dial, and The Fifty receives exactly that. Its four separate parts are finished differently to achieve maximum quality and expressiveness. The structure and finishing create a sense of depth and relief, forming a dynamic and rich visual effect. The Fifty is a superb Millesime model, showcasing neo-vintage design codes in a high-class execution, previously unseen in Raymond Weil.

Special attention is deserved by the many decorative elements of the dial, which significantly enhance its appeal:

• The carefully finished rehaut, equipped with a tachymeter scale, serves as a functional addition to the decorative center and unifies the design.
• Hour indices are placed on a grained texture.
• The central part is decorated with a "tapestry" pattern with alternating guilloches, inspired by the vertical satin finish of the Millesime collection and central crosshairs.
• Clean, clear recessed counters provide excellent readability.

Chronograph in the Spotlight

The case back is engraved with the dates "1976" and "2026," symbolizing the brand's founding year and anniversary. The main decoration is undoubtedly the Valjoux 23-6 movement, showcased openly. This caliber alone is a compelling argument for acquiring one of the 50 models of The Fifty. It's a true piece of watchmaking heritage. While the movement may overshadow the brand itself, Raymond Weil has done an outstanding job of creating perfect conditions for the legendary caliber.

The Fifty is a very striking watch, thanks to meticulous attention to detail. At a price of 8,650 Swiss francs, it's no surprise if all pieces sell out before the end of the anniversary celebration.

Your Opinion on Raymond Weil Millesime The Fifty

What do you think about the Millesime The Fifty model? Would you consider purchasing it? If so, what is more important to you: the brand's reputation and perception, the aesthetics of the 37 × 10.75 mm case with vintage curved screws, the case and elegant dial, the legendary mechanism inside, or a combination of all these factors? Please share your comments below.

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