The concept of luxury sports watches with an integrated bracelet is a hot trend, with most brands, from affordable to elite, entering this crowded market. Many have tried, some succeeded, some not. The toughest challenge with these 1970s-style watches is to bring your own identity to this narrow concept. On one hand, it's easy to become just another imitator of these iconic models. On the other hand, there are certain codes that must be followed, and deviating from them can be risky. It's all about fine-tuning the recipe... Today, we examine the recently released Tondagraph GT Steel Panda Dial, the embodiment of Parmigiani's luxury sports watch concept, with mechanical nobility and unique personality, to see if they can accomplish this tricky mission.
History
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT collection was introduced in 2020 as a unique take on the 1970s design that is so in demand today, while using many signature elements that made PF watches unique in past years. So yes, the Tondagraph GT is a sportier version of the brand's slightly baroque, distinctly Italian design with what is known as an integrated construction, metal bracelet, sports display, but combined with true watchmaking credentials. Initially, the watches were introduced in two versions - a three-hand with a large date and a chronograph with an annual calendar, but these were only limited editions likely testing the market.
In 2021, the Tondagraph GT returned, but this time as regular production models in the permanent collection. Two new models were presented, both with silver and black 'panda' dials: the steel Tondagraph GT with an annual calendar and chronograph, and the luxurious rose gold Tondagraph GT with a complex high-frequency integrated chronograph movement. Today, we take a closer look at perhaps the cornerstone model - the Tondagraph GT Steel Panda Dial on a stainless steel bracelet.
Tondagraph GT Steel Panda Dial
As mentioned, it's not an easy task to enter the luxury sports watch market and manage to adhere to some unmistakable codes while at the same time creating a watch with enough individuality to make it unique and unlike others. It's a delicate balance, as the market is dominated by a handful of models that have set enthusiasts' expectations, but at the same time, this community is highly critical of imitators. It's a demanding and conservative market, but novelty and signature design solutions are also necessary. And since for respectable brands, these watches have become an inevitable type of watch, some have seized this opportunity and failed.
What Parmigiani Fleurier did with their Tondagraph GT was to take their elegant, sophisticated, and quite differentiated Tonda model, as well as the impressive Tonda Chronor Anniversaire, and adapt the design codes of luxury sports watches - barrel-shaped case, bracelet flowing into the lines of the case, textured bezel, sports characteristics, but with a good dose of refinement and luxury.
How does this translate into real life? The starting point for most of the Tonda collection watches are the signature, dare I say, emblematic teardrop-shaped lugs that have shaped this collection for many years. Here they have been transferred onto the case and become part of the barrel-shaped central container. The case is made of stainless steel and is mostly polished, giving it a slightly more luxurious look than the classic models of this market. In the same vein, the top of the watch features a finely fluted bezel, which is also one of the key PF design elements.
The most important thing retained in this design is the alternation of convex and concave shapes, which set these watches apart from other 1970s-style models, often associated with sharp polished angles and flat matte surfaces. There's nothing like that here, but despite the unique approach to the concept, the brand managed to adhere to some typical codes of the category and make these watches fully consistent with their DNA. These watches are very complex in terms of shapes and textures, their design is very individual and striking. It may not be the most consensus model on the market, and it will certainly have both its fans and detractors. However, no one can accuse PF of lacking boldness and being influenced by existing models.
Returning to more rational matters: the case has a diameter of 42 mm and a relatively acceptable height of 13.7 mm - at least considering the complexities it entails. The side profile shows a well-thought-out design, ergonomic shape, and fairly short lugs. The curvature of the end link also makes these watches quite compact for most men's wrists. Despite the relatively luxurious look, the Tondagraph GT watches are water-resistant up to 100 meters and equipped with a screw-down crown. A nice touch is that the pushers are made in the same shape as the lugs, with a teardrop profile. These watches have a smoother ride than most competitors, and for this PF can score some points.
As for the dial, Parmigiani has given the new non-limited Tondagraph GT more contrast and a pleasant sporty touch with the so-called panda dial. The silver-colored base is adorned with a fine guilloché clou triangulaire pattern. Relatively unnoticed from a distance, the texture is beautifully executed and adds extra charm to the watch. All other elements of the dial are done in contrasting colors, enhancing overall legibility. Classically, the 3 sub-counters - small seconds, 30-minute, and 12-hour - are black with white markings. Additionally, the rhodium-plated markers and hands are coated with black Super-LumiNova, which is excellent for daytime reading and slightly less so in low light conditions. Finally, the date discs are also black, which is certainly a great option in this B&W context.
As you have already guessed, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT is a chronograph. But that's not all, as it is also an annual calendar that displays the date on two separate discs, as well as the month in a discreet window in the small seconds subdial at the 3 o'clock position. As a reminder, the annual calendar (invented by Patek in 1996) is a practical complication that accounts for months with 30 or 31 days, automatically adjusting to the correct date at the end of the month and requiring only one adjustment per year, at the end of February. More convenient than a classic calendar and less delicate than a complex perpetual calendar, it is an excellent compromise.
The Tondagraph GT watches are equipped with the modular Calibre PF043 movement. This movement is based on the brand's classic automatic movement with two additional modules on top (located on the dial side): one for the chronograph and the other for the annual calendar. Despite the relative complexity, the movement is quite thin - 7.4 mm in height - allowing the watch to sit well on the wrist. The automatic mechanism driving these functions operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and has a 45-hour power reserve. A pleasing finish includes a rotor made of 22-carat gold and bridges with Geneva stripes and polished chamfers.
As for the bracelet, Parmigiani offers a large and well-integrated design, again with some baroque twist - but it complements the look of the watch. It closes with a triple-folding clasp. Additionally, you can order the Tondagraph GT Steel Panda Dial on a black rubber strap.
Availability and Price
The Parmigiani Tondagraph GT Steel Panda Dial is part of the permanent collection. Its price is 18,500 EUR or 18,500 CHF on a rubber strap and 19,500 EUR or 19,500 CHF on a steel bracelet.
More information can be found at www.parmigiani.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - PARMIGIANI TONDAGRAPH GT STEEL PANDA DIAL
Case: diameter 42 mm x height 13.7 mm - stainless steel case, polished with matte accents - finely fluted steel bezel - sapphire crystal front and back - screw-down crown - water resistance 100 m
Dial: Silver-colored dial with clou triangulaire guilloché pattern, black chronograph sub-counters, hand-applied markers and hands, rhodium-plated with black luminous coating
Movement: Calibre PF043, in-house movement - automatic modular chronograph with annual calendar function - 56 jewels - 443 components - 30 mm x 7.4 mm - 28,800 vibrations/hour - power reserve 45 hours - 22-carat rose gold rotor - hours, minutes, small seconds, central chronograph seconds, 30-minute and 12-hour counters, annual calendar with large date (2-digit) and month window
Bracelet: Integrated polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet with triple folding clasp
Also available black vulcanized rubber strap with folding clasp
Reference: PFC906-0000140-B00182 steel bracelet, PFC906-0000140-X01482 rubber strap
Price: 18,500 EUR or 18,500 CHF on rubber, EUR 19,500 or CHF 19,500 for steel
